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Sport climbing areas around Philadelphia/New York
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StephW


Aug 30, 2011, 2:28 AM
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Sport climbing areas around Philadelphia/New York
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Hi,
we are going to be in the general area of New York and Philadelphia in two weeks and would like to spend a few days climbing. Are there any sport crags which would keep us busy for 4+ days (up to grade 5.10b if well bolted)?
Happy to drive a couple of hours.

Thanks,
Steph (Germany)


treetop


Aug 30, 2011, 5:22 AM
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Ralph Stover near Point Pleasant just outside of Philadelphia, and of course the Gunks' which are north of NYC up the NY Thruway.


StephW


Aug 30, 2011, 6:02 AM
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Thanks, treetop!
I looked at the Gunks and totally loved it, but then read that it is almost purely trad. If there is enough sport, which guidebook would you recommend?

Thanks heaps :-)


Dip


Aug 30, 2011, 6:25 AM
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StephW wrote:
Thanks, treetop!
I looked at the Gunks and totally loved it, but then read that it is almost purely trad. If there is enough sport, which guidebook would you recommend?

Thanks heaps :-)

there is no sport climbing at the gunks. I'm not sure about Stover but i don't believe you'll find a bunch of bolted lines there either. The closest sport climbing to philly is at a little quarry in Birdsboro Pennsylvania. The rock is not of high quality, but there are some fun lines there. Certainly not enough to keep you busy for 4+ days though.

If you can only stay within a couple hours of the philly/new york metropolitan areas you'll be hard pressed to find decent sport climbing. IF however you're willing to drive a bit farther some amazing opportunities open up.


StephW


Aug 30, 2011, 6:51 AM
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Dip, thanks for your answer. We are happy to drive for a few hours for sure and deviate from our route Philadelphia - NY.
Which areas /guidebooks would you recommend?

Thanks in advance!


Dip


Aug 30, 2011, 6:59 AM
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StephW wrote:
Dip, thanks for your answer. We are happy to drive for a few hours for sure and deviate from our route Philadelphia - NY.
Which areas /guidebooks would you recommend?

Thanks in advance!

I think you can get to Rumney in 6 hours from NY. If you have 4 days you can dedicate to climbing that would be worth it. The New River Gorge is probably about 7 hours from Philly. It's a long drive for sure, but again if you have 4 days...


marc801


Aug 30, 2011, 7:38 AM
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treetop wrote:
Ralph Stover near Point Pleasant just outside of Philadelphia, and of course the Gunks' which are north of NYC up the NY Thruway.

Stover has one or maybe three bolted lines on short, scruffy slate-like crap that feels like you're climbing on crayons. Stover sucks.

The Gunks? The OP specifically asked for sport crags. As Dip mentioned, there are no sport routes at the Gunks. Even Sente, the one route with the most bolts (3 in 75' of climbing) still requires gear. There are only about 8 other routes (out of 1200) with a bolt on them.


smallclimber


Aug 30, 2011, 7:54 AM
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Rumney in New Hampshire is about a 6 hour drive from New York City. If you do indeed have four clear days this would be your best bet for sport in your range. Routes are well bolted and fun. After four days you will be pretty spent. There is a new guidebook (have forgotten the author for now) and also a site called "Mountain Project" has some pretty good topos.
There's a campsite, a climbers hostel and some motels in the nearby student town of Plymouth.
If you can change your homebound flight (I assume you are visiting from Germany) to Boston then that would save you such a long drive on the way back.


StephW


Aug 30, 2011, 8:52 AM
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Thanks guys,

Rumney it is! The area looks fantastic, and seems to be well worth the drive. It will be amzing - I cannot believe there is even an iphone app as guidebook!
I have already started juggling flights Wink

Happy climbing,
Steph


gblauer
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Aug 30, 2011, 10:43 AM
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Birdsboro in Birdsboro, PA (1 hour west of Philly) has more than 120 sport climbs from 5.4 to 5.14.

Let me know if you would like detailed directions.

Have fun,
Gail


Partner devkrev


Aug 30, 2011, 11:05 AM
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Rumney is definitely New England's premier sport climbing destination


StephW


Aug 30, 2011, 11:59 AM
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Hi Gail,

This sounds very tempting as well, and a lot closer.
Directions would be great and any hints about guidebooks or online info would be most welcome.

Thanks heaps, Steph


gblauer
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Aug 30, 2011, 12:07 PM
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Steph,

Here is the route list:

http://www.readingrocks.com/Downloads/birdsboro.pdf

If you are coming from PHL go west on 76, follow it to 422 west and go about 31 miles. Take a left on 345, go through the town of Birdsboro and keep going until you dead end into the parking lot. Ignore the detour, road closed signs, just keep going until you hit the parking lot.

You will then cross hay creek on two cables (or wade through the water), follow the old road up to another two cable crossing and cross again. Follow the trail up and right into the climbing area. There are multiple tiers, so be sure to experience the nuances of each area (from slab to overhanging).

When will you be there?

PS...the Bird is NOT Rumney. The Bird is an old quarry with some areas of chossy rock (helmet is really a must). Climber beware. That said, I have been climbing there for years and I enjoy having a local sport climbing crag. I spend most of my weekends at the gunks, but, there are really no bolted lines. There are some bolted lines at West Point, but, the climbs are ok, not great.


(This post was edited by gblauer on Aug 30, 2011, 12:22 PM)


StephW


Aug 30, 2011, 12:31 PM
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Thanks Gail,
much appreciated! The walk-in sounds fun as well.
We will probable be there some time in the second half of next week with some friends and then decide how long we stay.

Thanks heaps again :-)

Steph


gblauer
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Aug 30, 2011, 12:39 PM
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Let me know your dates, I might be able to play "host" or I might be able to get someone else to show you around.


shockabuku


Aug 30, 2011, 12:43 PM
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Rumney is a good choice. Birdsboro is the kind of place you go to if it's the only place you can get to. It's interesting for a day (maybe two) of climbing whereas Rumney is the kind of place you deliberately decide to travel to.


StephW


Aug 30, 2011, 11:39 PM
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Thanks so much Gail, that is a great offer! We are meeting a couple of friends for next week's climbing and I am talking to them about going to Birdsboro (original plan was High Rocks). I will be in touch if we get sorted out things early enough to take up your offer.
Thanks heaps again,
Steph Smile


StephW


Aug 30, 2011, 11:41 PM
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Thanks for putting the areas into perspective, shockabuku - this is the feeling I was getting. We will now go to Birdsboro for 1-2 days and then Rumney for a bit longer, it definitely seems worth the trip.
Steph Smile


Partner rgold


Aug 31, 2011, 10:26 AM
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Steph, check your PM's.


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