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Cigolon


Sep 2, 2011, 8:12 AM
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Rope length
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What's the longest route you'll lead on a single 60m rope?


justanotherclimber


Sep 2, 2011, 8:42 AM
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Re: [Cigolon] Rope length [In reply to]
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1000m. Maybe longer if I'm feeling saucy.


Rudmin


Sep 2, 2011, 8:55 AM
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Re: [Cigolon] Rope length [In reply to]
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Cigolon wrote:
What's the longest route you'll lead on a single 60m rope?

Do you mean pitch where you wrote route? Seeing as 60m is pretty standard, you might as well just ask "what is the longest route you'll lead?"


jomagam


Sep 2, 2011, 9:06 AM
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Re: [Cigolon] Rope length [In reply to]
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Cigolon wrote:
What's the longest route you'll lead on a single 60m rope?

Longest single pitch would be 60 meters. Then belay the second from top, who tails another 60 meter rope. Rap down.


sungam


Sep 2, 2011, 10:22 AM
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Re: [Cigolon] Rope length [In reply to]
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I have reason to believe that I once attempted to lead a 65m pitch on Stairway to Heaven.

Good times.... NAAAAT.


moose_droppings


Sep 2, 2011, 10:57 AM
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Re: [Cigolon] Rope length [In reply to]
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Routes can be of any length while the number of pitches in routes may vary independent of the ropes length.

Number of pitches depends on the characteristics of each individual route and the FA's.


(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Sep 2, 2011, 12:33 PM)


rescueman


Sep 2, 2011, 5:16 PM
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Re: [jomagam] Rope length [In reply to]
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jomagam wrote:
Cigolon wrote:
What's the longest route you'll lead on a single 60m rope?

Longest single pitch would be 60 meters.

I guess you don't use any of that 60m or rope to tie in at each end and the belayer is hugging the rock, and you're content to run out the entire rope and set up a belay station at that point regardless of whether there's any anchorage.

The obvious answer is you climb until you get close to the amount of available rope (hopefully, your belayer is letting you know how much is left), and stop where a good 3-point belay anchor can be built.


areyoumydude


Sep 2, 2011, 5:55 PM
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Re: [rescueman] Rope length [In reply to]
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rescueman wrote:
jomagam wrote:
Cigolon wrote:
What's the longest route you'll lead on a single 60m rope?

Longest single pitch would be 60 meters.

I guess you don't use any of that 60m or rope to tie in at each end and the belayer is hugging the rock, and you're content to run out the entire rope and set up a belay station at that point regardless of whether there's any anchorage.


The obvious answer is you climb until you get close to the amount of available rope (hopefully, your belayer is letting you know how much is left), and stop where a good 3-point belay anchor can be built.

I've been on many a route where the rope ran out and I or my partner had to start climbing before there was a belay. Also I've done Royal Arches in one pitch.


rescueman


Sep 2, 2011, 6:15 PM
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Re: [areyoumydude] Rope length [In reply to]
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areyoumydude wrote:
I've been on many a route where the rope ran out and I or my partner had to start climbing before there was a belay.

That's simul-climbing (often caused by poor planning), but I don't think it's what the OP was asking about.


areyoumydude


Sep 2, 2011, 6:46 PM
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Re: [rescueman] Rope length [In reply to]
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rescueman wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
I've been on many a route where the rope ran out and I or my partner had to start climbing before there was a belay.

That's simul-climbing (often caused by poor planning), but I don't think it's what the OP was asking about.

Oh, that's what it's called. Thanks, I just thought I was a poor planner when it came to multi-pitch climbing. Silly me. Laugh

The OP's question as stated doesn't even make sense.


dagibbs


Sep 2, 2011, 9:34 PM
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Re: [Cigolon] Rope length [In reply to]
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The longest route I've done was around 650m. But, I'd do longer.

The longest pitch I've lead on a 60m rope was around 56-57m. Yes, I was out of rope at the end of that pitch.


USnavy


Sep 2, 2011, 10:50 PM
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Re: [rescueman] Rope length [In reply to]
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rescueman wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
I've been on many a route where the rope ran out and I or my partner had to start climbing before there was a belay.

That's simul-climbing (often caused by poor planning),.
And often caused by good planning. I did a long slab route in the Cascades which has lots of 5.9 and below climbing so I simul-climbed a number of pitches in a row to save time.


rescueman


Sep 3, 2011, 6:31 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Rope length [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
And often caused by good planning. I did a long slab route in the Cascades which has lots of 5.9 and below climbing so I simul-climbed a number of pitches in a row to save time.

Well, that's because you're a Navy swab. You probably do tactical rappelling, face first firing rounds on the way down.

I was unloading MRE's the last several days from Guard Blackhawks and those guys won't even shut down the engine. It's all hit and run.

For me, climbing (and life) is about taking my sweet time and smelling the roses.


patto


Sep 3, 2011, 1:17 PM
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Re: [rescueman] Rope length [In reply to]
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rescueman wrote:
For me, climbing (and life) is about taking my sweet time and smelling the roses.

If you do that then on some climbs you'll still be on the climb when it gets dark. Moving fast when necessary is part of safe climbing. Your claim that simul climbing is 'often casused by poor planning' shows your naivety.


carabiner96


Sep 3, 2011, 1:37 PM
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Re: [rescueman] Rope length [In reply to]
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rescueman wrote:
USnavy wrote:
And often caused by good planning. I did a long slab route in the Cascades which has lots of 5.9 and below climbing so I simul-climbed a number of pitches in a row to save time.

Well, that's because you're a Navy swab. You probably do tactical rappelling, face first firing rounds on the way down.

I was unloading MRE's the last several days from Guard Blackhawks and those guys won't even shut down the engine. It's all hit and run.

For me, climbing (and life) is about taking my sweet time and smelling the roses.
We know.


rescueman


Sep 3, 2011, 1:54 PM
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Re: [patto] Rope length [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
rescueman wrote:
For me, climbing (and life) is about taking my sweet time and smelling the roses.

If you do that then on some climbs you'll still be on the climb when it gets dark. Moving fast when necessary is part of safe climbing. Your claim that simul climbing is 'often casused by poor planning' shows your naivety.

Sorry, but starting a climb that you aren't sure you can finish before dark is poor planning in my book. You can start earlier or bring headlamps or a portaledge, or just be smart and put it off for another day.

Moving fast when an unexpected thunder storm moves in might be sensible, or moving fast when other such unpredictable events occur is part of safe mountaineering. But most "movin' fast" is a result of poor planning - in climbing, as in all things in life.


carabiner96


Sep 3, 2011, 2:24 PM
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Re: [rescueman] Rope length [In reply to]
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rescueman wrote:
patto wrote:
rescueman wrote:
For me, climbing (and life) is about taking my sweet time and smelling the roses.

If you do that then on some climbs you'll still be on the climb when it gets dark. Moving fast when necessary is part of safe climbing. Your claim that simul climbing is 'often casused by poor planning' shows your naivety.

Sorry, but starting a climb that you aren't sure you can finish before dark is poor planning in my book. You can start earlier or bring headlamps or a portaledge, or just be smart and put it off for another day.

Moving fast when an unexpected thunder storm moves in might be sensible, or moving fast when other such unpredictable events occur is part of safe mountaineering. But most "movin' fast" is a result of poor planning - in climbing, as in all things in life.
I think we have another quote for the Reel Rock Tour movie. Can I play enigma?


patto


Sep 3, 2011, 2:43 PM
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Re: [rescueman] Rope length [In reply to]
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Rescueman do you have any real world experience?

rescueman wrote:
Sorry, but starting a climb that you aren't sure you can finish before dark is poor planning in my book.
If you plan for the eventuality then its not poor planning is is?

rescueman wrote:
You can start earlier
Start climbing earlier than dawn?

rescueman wrote:
or bring headlamps
I don't consider this optional in serious long climbs.

rescueman wrote:
or a portaledge, or just be smart and put it off for another day.
Are you kidding me? You don't bring a portaledge for the off chance that you might run out of time.

rescueman wrote:
But most "movin' fast" is a result of poor planning - in climbing, as in all things in life.
No. Moving fast is PART of my planning. If I'm hiking 10 miles from basecamp, climbing 1500 feet, descending in a to be determined fashion and then hiking 10 miles out I want to move fast.


(This post was edited by patto on Sep 3, 2011, 2:46 PM)


rescueman


Sep 3, 2011, 5:23 PM
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Re: [patto] Rope length [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
If you plan for the eventuality then its (sic) not poor planning is is?

That depends on what the definition of "is" is.

But a blow job under the oval office desk is poor planning, no matter how much you think you've considered the eventualities.Wink

patto wrote:
Rescueman do you have any real world experience?
I have far more "real world" experience in my nearly 60 years on the planet than most of you, but I live by choice in a different world: one in which getting to the end as quickly as possible is not the goal, in which case suicide is the most effective means of getting there.

Slow down and savor life. Live poor so that you can live free. Make plenty of time to help your neighbors. Leave the world a better place than you found it.


(This post was edited by rescueman on Sep 3, 2011, 5:28 PM)


patto


Sep 3, 2011, 6:32 PM
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Re: [rescueman] Rope length [In reply to]
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rescueman wrote:
patto wrote:
If you plan for the eventuality then its (sic) not poor planning is is?

That depends on what the definition of "is" is.

But a blow job under the oval office desk is poor planning, no matter how much you think you've considered the eventualities.Wink

patto wrote:
Rescueman do you have any real world experience?
I have far more "real world" experience in my nearly 60 years on the planet than most of you, but I live by choice in a different world: one in which getting to the end as quickly as possible is not the goal, in which case suicide is the most effective means of getting there.

Slow down and savor life. Live poor so that you can live free. Make plenty of time to help your neighbors. Leave the world a better place than you found it.

How does this relate to moving fast to complete a climb?

How do you manage to complete long climbs if you spend your time smelling the roses? Or don't you do long climbs?


rescueman


Sep 3, 2011, 7:09 PM
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Re: [patto] Rope length [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
How do you manage to complete long climbs if you spend your time smelling the roses? Or don't you do long climbs?

Nothing more than six pitches, and nothing I can't complete before dark (with plans for a quick rap if a thunderstorm comes in).




But, if I were to do a longer climb, I would definitely bring my queen sized portaledge.




TarHeelEMT


Sep 3, 2011, 7:55 PM
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Re: [patto] Rope length [In reply to]
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patto wrote:

How do you manage to complete long climbs if you spend your time smelling the roses? Or don't you do long climbs?

From the looks of things, he climbs about as much as majid.


Kartessa


Sep 3, 2011, 8:24 PM
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Re: [TarHeelEMT] Rope length [In reply to]
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TarHeelEMT wrote:
patto wrote:

How do you manage to complete long climbs if you spend your time smelling the roses? Or don't you do long climbs?

From the looks of things, he climbs about as much as majid.

But RM makes prettier pictures
http://http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2536278#2536278

(This post was edited by Kartessa on Sep 3, 2011, 8:27 PM)


patto


Sep 3, 2011, 8:49 PM
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Re: [rescueman] Rope length [In reply to]
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rescueman wrote:
patto wrote:
How do you manage to complete long climbs if you spend your time smelling the roses? Or don't you do long climbs?

Nothing more than six pitches, and nothing I can't complete before dark (with plans for a quick rap if a thunderstorm comes in).

There is nothing wrong with choosing not to do long climbs. I won't think less of you based on your climbing style.

However you lose credibility when you make ignorant comments about simul-climbing, lack of planning and 'moving fast'.

It quickly becomes evident that you don't know much about climbing. Completing 20 pitches in a day is quite doable and you can be down well before dark.

rescueman wrote:
But, if I were to do a longer climb, I would definitely bring my queen sized portaledge.
CrazyI'd pay to see you climb even a domesticated long route like Royal Arches! (16 cruisy pitches) Laugh


(This post was edited by patto on Sep 3, 2011, 8:49 PM)


rescueman


Sep 3, 2011, 8:56 PM
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Re: [Kartessa] Rope length [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
But RM makes prettier pictures

Those are not my pretty pictures. They belong to Rocky Mountain Rescue Group.


(This post was edited by rescueman on Sep 3, 2011, 8:57 PM)

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