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Training Videos for the Unnatural Climber
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Ultranoob


Sep 2, 2011, 10:26 AM
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Training Videos for the Unnatural Climber
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Hi All,

I've just started climbing for about 3 weeks indoors and one thing is for sure, climbing is not natural to me.

While my climbing partner has progressively increase climbing grades every week (we started at 5.6 the first day and he's now able to easily climb 5.9s), I still can't get to the top of 5.8s.

I understand my technique is a problem, often I recognize that I am doing things wrong but I have trouble knowing what to do to get it right. For example, last night, I hit a steep point and I knew my butt was out, but tried to pivot but couldn't get myself into a correct position to make the reach and ultimately tired myself out. Another example is that I've been trying to practice traversing and keep finding myself with crossed arms, in a very wierd balance and not knowing what to do. The techniques just don't come natural to me.

I've read the Self-Coached Climber and watched the videos on DVD / rewind a dozen times, but I think I need something a bit more noobish than that. The book and video does a good job of explaining the techniques, but really they go through the motions so smoothly /quickly it's hard for me to learn from. They provide me with admiration of what good climbing looks like, but I have trouble knowing when/how to apply the techniques when I'm on a wall.


I think I need something that

a) shows a slow step-by-step of the techniques, especially the harder techniques such as twist-locks and drop knees. Right now I have no idea when or how to apply these techniques.

b) some guidance on what technique makes sense when. E.g. "in general, if you in this position and you have this hold as an option, you may want to try this..."

Is there such a "for dummies" type of book (or preferable video) out there that could help me?


(This post was edited by Ultranoob on Sep 2, 2011, 10:27 AM)


MarcelS


Sep 2, 2011, 10:45 AM
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Re: [Ultranoob] Training Videos for the Unnatural Climber [In reply to]
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Let me start with: not everyone makes progress in the same pace, and 3 weeks is hardly anything regarding progression. How often do you climb per week?

Myself I am reading my way through the SCC and I think its fantastic, the pictures pretty well illustrate how to do certain moves.
Now for your questions:

A) The SCC does provide good pictures on how to make those moves, but it takes practice. And there in fact is no when: there are a zillion different stands and holds, and you will find out when which moves comes in handy. Give it time.

B) See A: impossible as there are uncountable combinations, but you will find out by climbing and trying them out.

C) The SCC is one of the best and you have it!

Bottomline: Do not try to go too fast, climb and have fun! Mix the exercises from the book with routes you enjoy, and you will get there. Do not forget many n00bs make fast progress because they are strong, with entirely messy technique. Which they have to learn later on, as without technique you will not get further. Do not compare yourself to those climber but learn it the best way, in your own pace!

Have fun :)

Editted fot typos :)


(This post was edited by MarcelS on Sep 7, 2011, 2:33 PM)


Rock-Monkey


Sep 7, 2011, 9:18 AM
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good info,

BTW... what is SSC? I am also new to the sport and looking for good books to read!


styndall


Sep 7, 2011, 9:39 AM
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Rock-Monkey wrote:
good info,

BTW... what is SSC? I am also new to the sport and looking for good books to read!

I think he meant the Self Coached Climber. The double S is a typo.


Anyone, don't sweat the fact that your partner has improved a bit more than you in the three weeks you've been climbing. Climb some more - in fact, if 5.7 is your limit, climb every 5.7 in the gym. Once you do that, you'll surely find some climbs you can do more easily, and then pick some 5.8s that look similar.


Rock-Monkey


Sep 7, 2011, 10:07 AM
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Ah SCC... i have really been meaning to buy this book... thanks for clearing that up.


MarcelS


Sep 7, 2011, 2:30 PM
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Rock-Monkey wrote:
good info,

BTW... what is SSC? I am also new to the sport and looking for good books to read!
So much for typing answers on the iPad, it really is SCC indeed, wasn't too focussed I guess. Will correct my earlier post :)


adelphos


Sep 8, 2011, 11:43 AM
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The first response is correct. Every climber is different and progresses at a different rate.

I would add that if you want your progression to take off, take a few classes. They don't cost that much and a good trainer will be able to correct your issues much more effectively. They will also be able to give you some solid training program tips to get you on the right track.

My personal experience has been that noobs in the gym tend to attract noobs in the gym. The net result is two climbers that really don't know anything coaching each other on bad techniques. Just saying, seek out the real pros and ask them.

Keep having fun.


Ultranoob


Sep 8, 2011, 12:40 PM
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adelphos wrote:
The first response is correct. Every climber is different and progresses at a different rate.

I would add that if you want your progression to take off, take a few classes. They don't cost that much and a good trainer will be able to correct your issues much more effectively. They will also be able to give you some solid training program tips to get you on the right track.

My personal experience has been that noobs in the gym tend to attract noobs in the gym. The net result is two climbers that really don't know anything coaching each other on bad techniques. Just saying, seek out the real pros and ask them.

Keep having fun.

The gym I have a membership in doesn't have classes except for basic top-rope belaying until you've climbed consistently for 3-month.

I'm definitely finding myself stuck in the same types of spots where the footholds do not allow for reaching the next handhold when standing parallel to the wall (in an "H" position), and find myself burning a lot of energy trying to pivot to get a little bit more length. My guess is that learning a twistlock or drop knee type move would help, but just watching the video and trying to execute those moves are 2 completely different things.

What I'll try to do is find time on a quiet day and just try to work on those moves on holds 3 feet above ground. Hopefully someone with more experience will take pity on me and help me out.


johnwesely


Sep 8, 2011, 12:55 PM
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Ultranoob wrote:
adelphos wrote:
The first response is correct. Every climber is different and progresses at a different rate.

I would add that if you want your progression to take off, take a few classes. They don't cost that much and a good trainer will be able to correct your issues much more effectively. They will also be able to give you some solid training program tips to get you on the right track.

My personal experience has been that noobs in the gym tend to attract noobs in the gym. The net result is two climbers that really don't know anything coaching each other on bad techniques. Just saying, seek out the real pros and ask them.

Keep having fun.

The gym I have a membership in doesn't have classes except for basic top-rope belaying until you've climbed consistently for 3-month.

I'm definitely finding myself stuck in the same types of spots where the footholds do not allow for reaching the next handhold when standing parallel to the wall (in an "H" position), and find myself burning a lot of energy trying to pivot to get a little bit more length. My guess is that learning a twistlock or drop knee type move would help, but just watching the video and trying to execute those moves are 2 completely different things.

What I'll try to do is find time on a quiet day and just try to work on those moves on holds 3 feet above ground. Hopefully someone with more experience will take pity on me and help me out.

Practice turning your hip turns on moves that are easy for you, not those at your limit. Find the biggest jugs you can and practice the movement until it feels natural. Then, progressively implement the movement on climbs closer and closer to your maximum.


MarcelS


Sep 8, 2011, 1:02 PM
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What worked best for me is to watch more experienced climbers in the gym, and how they do the moves. Actually it made me skip a technique training, as I learned so much from what I saw.
Best watch people on not too difficult grades, as watching them climb 5.12 probably will not help you in your 5.7 problem. Better watch a 5.10 climber warm up in a 5.8 route for example, and see how they solve moves that give you problems.

In time things will fall in place and chances are you will in the end become the 5.12 climber yourself! The most important thing though, is not the grade you climb, but the fun you have climbing!


adelphos


Sep 8, 2011, 5:02 PM
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I've seen this happen before and normally it is because the person isn't really standing up, they just think that they are. This is especially true for low level climbs. Really reachy moves are normally reserved for 5.10 and up. You might get a few here and there for low level ones, but it shouldn't be the routine.

Putting your hip into the wall works for a negative incline, not usually a flat wall with a relatively even spread.

Just based on your comments, consider two things...

1. Traverse - if your gym doesn't have a traverse route, just make your own, work your way around the gym hanging on the wall. This builds endurance and helps you get comfortable with a wide variety of moves.

2. The climbing pyramid (this has done wonders for me). Your goal when you hit the gym is to scale your difficult. In your case, do 4 routes of 5.5, followed by 3 routes at 5.6, followed by 2 routes at 5.7 and a final route at 5.8.

If you can send the 5.8, the next time you climb you get to add a grade to each level. You'll find that this disciplines you to learn the lower levels, builds strength and endurance in a way that scales and it give you a way to get feedback on your own training progress. Each time you send the top route, you know it is time to push up to the next level.

I try to do this routine a few times a month and it has helped me a lot. Starting out I would do it weekly, alternating with a redpoint day. Redpointing is where you pick routes that you know you'll be able to climb with practice, but are beyond your ability to send the first time. This gives you a balance and variety in your training routine.

One other thought, find out if your gym has a climbing team. They may let you join right up and they frequently have really good coaching,


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