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California... Best Sport Climbing?
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welcome65


Sep 2, 2011, 1:56 PM
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California... Best Sport Climbing?  (North_America: United_States: California: Yosemite_National_Park)
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My girlfriend and I are planning a trip from Washington through Smith Rock and down to Yosemite. I am a Sport Climber/ Boulderer by nature. I have some experience plugging gear, but not enough to consider myself a trad climber (I also lack an adequate trad rack). I can lead up to 5.11d. We plan on spending one day in Yosemite just to see it (never been). We're going to do some hiking/ sight seeing while we're there. I am wondering though, what is the best area close by (Mammoth Lakes, Owens River Gorge, Bishop) where we could spend a day or two sport climbing? I have done some research and it seems that ORG has the most options, but considering we're only going to be there a day or two, I want to go to the area with the BEST climbing. Any and all beta would be most appreciated. Thanks.


welcome65


Sep 2, 2011, 2:10 PM
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Re: [welcome65] California... Best Sport Climbing? [In reply to]
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An additional thought... Is there any awesome sport climbing I should be aware of North of Yosemite, that we could hit up on our way?


snoopy138


Sep 2, 2011, 3:25 PM
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Re: [welcome65] California... Best Sport Climbing? [In reply to]
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welcome65 wrote:
My girlfriend and I are planning a trip from Washington through Smith Rock and down to Yosemite. I am a Sport Climber/ Boulderer by nature. I have some experience plugging gear, but not enough to consider myself a trad climber (I also lack an adequate trad rack). I can lead up to 5.11d. We plan on spending one day in Yosemite just to see it (never been). We're going to do some hiking/ sight seeing while we're there. I am wondering though, what is the best area close by (Mammoth Lakes, Owens River Gorge, Bishop) where we could spend a day or two sport climbing? I have done some research and it seems that ORG has the most options, but considering we're only going to be there a day or two, I want to go to the area with the BEST climbing. Any and all beta would be most appreciated. Thanks.

what time of year?


welcome65


Sep 2, 2011, 3:29 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] California... Best Sport Climbing? [In reply to]
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We will be leaving Washington around September 14th... So late September.


snoopy138


Sep 2, 2011, 4:22 PM
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Re: [welcome65] California... Best Sport Climbing? [In reply to]
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welcome65 wrote:
We will be leaving Washington around September 14th... So late September.

Check out the Bear Crag, in the Mammoth area ... you can also take a look at Clark Canyon. Having not climbed at either area, I can't offer too much of an evaluation.


keithspernak


Sep 2, 2011, 4:31 PM
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Re: [welcome65] California... Best Sport Climbing? [In reply to]
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Mammoth area. Clark has really, really good moderate stuff. Area 13 at Clark has the best concentration of moderate sport tuff climbing just about anywhere. Dike Wall above George Lake has amazing "alpine" sport climbing. Worth it to get the "Mammoth Area Climbing Guide" while down there. ORG has loads of routes but not as scenic as the higher elevation stuff. The aspen will be changing color so it will be very nice down there.


welcome65


Sep 2, 2011, 5:00 PM
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Re: [keithspernak] California... Best Sport Climbing? [In reply to]
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keithspernak wrote:
Mammoth area. Clark has really, really good moderate stuff. Area 13 at Clark has the best concentration of moderate sport tuff climbing just about anywhere. Dike Wall above George Lake has amazing "alpine" sport climbing. Worth it to get the "Mammoth Area Climbing Guide" while down there. ORG has loads of routes but not as scenic as the higher elevation stuff. The aspen will be changing color so it will be very nice down there.

Awesome! Thanks for the info. Sounds like we'll be headed to Dike Wall and Clark Canyon for sure.

Is this the guidebook you suggest?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/0967611652/ref=dp_image_0?ie=UTF8&n=283155&s=books

Also, any camping recommendations?


rcmoose


Sep 2, 2011, 5:11 PM
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Re: [welcome65] California... Best Sport Climbing? [In reply to]
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The Gong Show Crag & Patricia Bowl out of Rock Creek & the Pratt's Crack area on the road to the Pine Creek trailhead are very good, with some shade


sierramike


Sep 2, 2011, 5:11 PM
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Re: [welcome65] California... Best Sport Climbing? [In reply to]
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Bear Crag is hands down the best sport climbing area in the Sierras. Period. We used to camp for free along the Scenic Loop just outside of Mammoth. Not sure if it's still legal though. Or if you are only there for a few days, then camp near Devil's Postpile. Have fun.


snoopy138


Sep 2, 2011, 6:51 PM
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Re: [rcmoose] California... Best Sport Climbing? [In reply to]
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rcmoose wrote:
The Gong Show Crag & Patricia Bowl out of Rock Creek & the Pratt's Crack area on the road to the Pine Creek trailhead are very good, with some shade

The Gong Show Crag and Patricia Bowl are not sport climbing.


jt512


Sep 2, 2011, 10:45 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] California... Best Sport Climbing? [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
welcome65 wrote:
We will be leaving Washington around September 14th... So late September.

Check out the Bear Crag, in the Mammoth area ... you can also take a look at Clark Canyon. Having not climbed at either area, I can't offer too much of an evaluation.

Having climbed both, skip Clark Canyon. Bear Crag is as good as sport climbing gets up there.

Snoopy, for god sakes, go to Bear Crag.

Jay


rcmoose


Sep 3, 2011, 12:03 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] California... Best Sport Climbing? [In reply to]
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There are both fine sport routes AND fine trad routes at The Gong Show & the Patricia Bowl (longer approach for P Bowl)


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