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jawaeater
Sep 4, 2011, 7:56 PM
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Hello, I was just wondering what the best way to set up an anchor at the top of a slabby sport route is in order to get less rope drag for others to toprope on. If I just use 2 quickdraws the biners lay flat against the rock and the rope gets pinched against the rock putting alot of wear on my sheath. If I set up the anchor with some slings and a sliding x it makes the biners that the rope goes through sit more upright which is better i guess. Im just wondering if anyone has a better idea.
Thanks
(This post was edited by jawaeater on Sep 4, 2011, 8:03 PM)
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cornstateclimber
Sep 4, 2011, 9:55 PM
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Belated from the anchors, off your harness
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ianmeister89
Sep 6, 2011, 1:05 AM
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Image extracted from the 2012 madrock catalog.
-Ian
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jawaeater
Sep 6, 2011, 2:31 AM
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This is brilliant! Thanks! 
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ianmeister89
Sep 6, 2011, 4:44 AM
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Are you doing this at Lake Perris' Big Rock? If you plan on building TR anchors there, i'd recmmend getting (and learning how to use) a cordelette. The only route that's got substantial drag(from my recollection) would be Puppy Dog.
-Ian
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jawaeater
Sep 6, 2011, 5:49 AM
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No, Ive been climbing alot up at the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles up in Big Bear. Some of the routes have slabby finishes and the rock is really rough. I own and know how to use a cordelette, but I always end up forgetting it on the ground.
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jeepnphreak
Sep 19, 2011, 8:01 PM
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Well I dont know the are you climb but here a a few suggestions. See what works
as showed above adding biners can make the friction less.
can you anchor a long piece of static rope, and extend the anchor to the edge so the rope is on the more verticle part of the climb.
lead climb the routs and belay from the anchor so only half the amount of rope is on the rock vs topping form the ground (rope goes up than back down).
Find a steeper route.
climb harder...
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donald949
Oct 20, 2011, 11:20 PM
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If you are using short stiff draws, use longer more flexable draws. The rope tension on the climber should twist the draw and pull them together to reduce friction.
I like mine with lockers.
Big Rock is not really a sport rock. Bolting occured there long before sport caught on. Also, the anchors were too high for 50M ropes to TR from. As such, the anchors where not set up with the bolts next to each other, such that two draws make a nice TR anchor. So a cordalet or simular is required. And Puppy Dog does need a bit of webbing to reduce friction. But Crater Maker only needs two draws to lead. 
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