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Finger training.....
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Marylandclimber


Sep 4, 2011, 6:24 PM
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Registered: Sep 3, 2011
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Finger training.....
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If everyone is saying you can't get better finger strength, then whats the point of campusing or a fingerboard????? Also, ever since i started using a fingerboard, I felt easy to hold on to small crimps just using my fingers....


spikeddem


Sep 4, 2011, 7:03 PM
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Re: [Marylandclimber] Finger training..... [In reply to]
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Grip strength can be trained and increased through hangboarding. That being said, many people believe that there are simply greater gains (technical AND grip strength increase) for the vast majority of climbers.

It's a question of the rate of return for your time spent training. If you are climbing routes/problems will eat into hangboarding time and hangboarding will eat into route/problem climbing time. Thus, if one gives greater gains, it is logical to pick the one providing said gains.

You'll get stronger hanging on a hangboard, but time spent learning to apply technical and mental skills in subtle ways will quite likely provide faster and more numerous benefits.


ghisino


Sep 5, 2011, 12:51 AM
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Re: [Marylandclimber] Finger training..... [In reply to]
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Marylandclimber wrote:
If everyone is saying you can't get better finger strength, then whats the point of campusing or a fingerboard?????

whoever said that either didn't know what (s)he was saying, or has been misurderstood.

possible sources of misunderstanding:

a) your grip muscles are not really in the fingers (rather in your forearm at its widest section, closer to your elbow). So in that sense "finger strenght" does not even exist

b)finger tissue strenght (ie the resistance to abuse of your fingers' tendons, pulleys and other soft tissues) improves so slowly that you can't really "train it", but rather just climb lots and wait...

c)as said in the post before, depending on your level, training grip strenght in isolation (especially on campus boards) might not a good long-term investment. As a rule of a thumb, stay away from it if :
i-you have done less than 2 years of regular climbing (regular=at least twice a month), no matter what grade you've been reaching.
ii-you have been climbing for a time between 2 and 5 years but you still can't redpoint 5.12a on non-fingery stuff as juggy stamina overhangs.
iii-you are younger than 16 years old (some even say younger than 18. Saying why would take long, i can explain if it's your case).

also, consider that intensive hangboard and campus sessions are very convenient as "training supplement" when you are already quite strong (approaching 5.13 or even more) and need a little extra stimulus to break a plateau.
Think of them as a recreational drug : if you use it from time to time and only when really worth it, a small dose has a massive effect.
If you use it all the time, you become tolerant and a huge dose will do next to nothing.


ceebo


Sep 5, 2011, 1:30 PM
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Re: [Marylandclimber] Finger training..... [In reply to]
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Marylandclimber wrote:
If everyone is saying you can't get better finger strength, then whats the point of campusing or a fingerboard????? Also, ever since i started using a fingerboard, I felt easy to hold on to small crimps just using my fingers....

As obsurd as it may sound, having 5.14 finger strength is not a hard thing to obtain. But, that alone does not amount to much grade wise.


c22


Sep 8, 2011, 2:47 AM
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Re: [ceebo] Finger training..... [In reply to]
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That's just silly.


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