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toofreakinsexy1
Aug 2, 2011, 3:11 AM
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Hey climbro's (see what I did there??) I'm heading to the RRG in a few weeks for the first time from the ADK's in New York. What climbing guide is the best/most up to date? I know their website is really up to date but I'd rather have a book to drool over at work and swear about when I leave it in the car when I go out to the cliffs :) Also, I'll have a few new leaders with me, any suggestions for us as far as cliffs to stick around? Any help is greatly appreciated
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clemsonscooby
Aug 2, 2011, 12:08 PM
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The Red River Gorge 3 is the most recent edition. It is the white cover with Sharma on the front.
New leaders might want to stick to Muir Valley. There are several cliffs all within reasonable distance to one another that have easy well-protected leads. I found Bruise Brothers to be pretty chill, protected from the rain, and sheltered from the sun for most of the day. There are several other cliffs down there, but pick up the guide and check it out.
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MS1
Aug 2, 2011, 2:22 PM
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toofreakinsexy1 wrote: Hey climbro's (see what I did there??) I'm heading to the RRG in a few weeks for the first time from the ADK's in New York. What climbing guide is the best/most up to date? I know their website is really up to date but I'd rather have a book to drool over at work and swear about when I leave it in the car when I go out to the cliffs :) Also, I'll have a few new leaders with me, any suggestions for us as far as cliffs to stick around? Any help is greatly appreciated
Redriverclimbing.com is a wonderful and FREE online guidebook. It is much more complete than the book (although the book, or its iphone app variant, can be nice to have out at the crag).
As for good cliffs for new leaders, check out Practice Wall, Bruise Brothers, Global Village, The Shire, Left Field, Bruise Brothers, Animal Crackers Wall, or the newly developed Land Before Time wall.
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toofreakinsexy1
Aug 3, 2011, 4:51 AM
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Perfect, thanks for the info, I can't wait to get up there. One more question, any recommended places to stay/eat while we're there? We're fine with camping if that's the easiest route.
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clemsonscooby
Aug 3, 2011, 1:09 PM
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It depends on the level of "scene" you want. If you want "the scene" go to Miguels, there is food there. If you want some solitude, Land of the Arches or Lago Linda are great. Lago has some nice cabins also if you want to pay a little more and relax. There really aren't many good places to eat. The Red is pretty much in the middle of no where. Beattyville has some fast food, there is Miguels, Subway, and the Flying Eagle? right near the Land of the Arches. Otherwise you need to drive a little ways. The guidebook covers these questions also.
(This post was edited by clemsonscooby on Aug 3, 2011, 1:10 PM)
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MS1
Aug 3, 2011, 4:38 PM
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toofreakinsexy1 wrote: Perfect, thanks for the info, I can't wait to get up there. One more question, any recommended places to stay/eat while we're there? We're fine with camping if that's the easiest route.
Eat pizza, rice bowls, and breakfast waffles at Miguel's.
Roses slings some pretty good burgers and milkshakes.
Camp at Miguel's if you want to socialize with the college crowd. Lago's is great for peace and quiet. If spending money to camp gets you down, head to the national forest. If you have the scratch and want a luxury climbing experience, pay for one of Matt and Amy's cabins; not only are the places comfortable, but you get a pass to climb at the one of the best private crags at the Red, Torrent Falls.
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toofreakinsexy1
Aug 4, 2011, 5:28 AM
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I spent a lot of time at Rodger's place at the NRG when I was living in VA, so Miguel's seems perfect if it's somewhat similar. Thanks for the info though, I just got the guidebook in today and was looking at the cliffs you guys recommended. I really want to hit a really tall, overhanging, epic RRG type climb while I'm there, but not have it so hard that I can't climb all 3 days we'll be there. Any suggestions for epic climbs like that in the 5.8 to 5.10 range?
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clemsonscooby
Aug 4, 2011, 12:58 PM
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Most of good severely overhanging rock lies in the 11's and above. The 10's with that description will be spread out. Drive by Crag at Pendergrass has some steep stuff along with the Gallery. Muir has the Sunbeam stuff and I thought Machete at Sunnyside was pretty cool along with its neighbor Weed Eater. Don't forget about the Tectonic Wall, but get up early if you plan on doing those since they get crowded quickly and it's neighbor Jonny Wall isn't bad. My personal favorite 10 at the Red is Toxic Avenger at the Wall of Denial, but it is none of the above. There is a really cool search function at the bottom of the mountainproject.com main page. It allows you to select climbs by grade, star rating, and area. Many of the routes will have pictures and descriptions that go along with them. This should help with the decision making also.
(This post was edited by clemsonscooby on Aug 4, 2011, 1:02 PM)
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gte921n
Aug 4, 2011, 2:04 PM
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"A brief history of climb" is one of my personal favorites in that range. I think the b/c rating comes from a tricky move down low. The rest is jug hauling on a gentle overhang. There are a lifetime of climbs there that fit your description.
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noell
Aug 4, 2011, 3:36 PM
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gte921n wrote: "A brief history of climb" is one of my personal favorites in that range. I think the b/c rating comes from a tricky move down low. The rest is jug hauling on a gentle overhang. There are a lifetime of climbs there that fit your description.
This is the exact climb I thought of when he said he wanted a tall, epic RRG route. Its rated mid -5.10 but for the most part, the climbing is 5.8-5.9 after the crux. Seriously awesome route.
And to the OP - I have spent alot of time at Rogers, LOVE Rogers, and never camp at Miguels. Lago Lindas is more like Rogers. Miguels is a very different scene, in my opinion. You never seen 20-30 people camping at Rogers mid week in the middle of the summer. But that's barely the norm at Miguels. It's ALOT busier. For me, I like to camp at Lindas (it feels more like camping to me than sleeping in my Jeep in the middle of the parking lot at MIguels) and then eat pizza at Miguels one night.
Have fun!
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MS1
Aug 4, 2011, 8:12 PM
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toofreakinsexy1 wrote: I spent a lot of time at Rodger's place at the NRG when I was living in VA, so Miguel's seems perfect if it's somewhat similar. Thanks for the info though, I just got the guidebook in today and was looking at the cliffs you guys recommended. I really want to hit a really tall, overhanging, epic RRG type climb while I'm there, but not have it so hard that I can't climb all 3 days we'll be there. Any suggestions for epic climbs like that in the 5.8 to 5.10 range?
To defy the laws of tradition, steepish upper half, 10a.
machete, 10b
a brief history of climbing 10c
27 years of climbing, .8
plate tectonics (and its neighbors) low 10s
These are about as tall and steep as you will get in the grade range you are looking for. But if you want a truly "epic" 5.10 experience, just get past the first two (crux) bolts of fuzzy undercling and climb the rest of it. Long, steep, juggy 5.10 climbing at its finest.
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toofreakinsexy1
Sep 6, 2011, 5:38 AM
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Thanks for the help, the RRG climbing trip was AWESOME. I've never been so ready to drive 14 hours again to get back. 'A brief history of climb' was epic, we got on the 10's at Bruise Brothers and had a blast. The Motherlode is like sex for the eyes, I've never been so impressed by a cliff. We'll be back in mid-October. How about a suggestion for a first route at the Lode? I'm a 12b/c leader and my projects tend to be up in the mid 13's. I had my eye on either Tuna Town or Bohica... A route that I could jug haul a few bolts up would be nice so I wouldn't have to worry about confronting a hard move down low.
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MS1
Sep 6, 2011, 11:05 AM
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toofreakinsexy1 wrote: Thanks for the help, the RRG climbing trip was AWESOME. I've never been so ready to drive 14 hours again to get back. 'A brief history of climb' was epic, we got on the 10's at Bruise Brothers and had a blast. The Motherlode is like sex for the eyes, I've never been so impressed by a cliff. We'll be back in mid-October. How about a suggestion for a first route at the Lode? I'm a 12b/c leader and my projects tend to be up in the mid 13's. I had my eye on either Tuna Town or Bohica... A route that I could jug haul a few bolts up would be nice so I wouldn't have to worry about confronting a hard move down low.
I've actually never been to the lode, as I don't climb hard enough to make the trip worth it. From what I've heard it is all pretty spectacular. If .13 is your projecting grade, I think you will be a very happy camper out there.
As far as the low crux issue, I'd say that's what stick clips were invented for.
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camhead
Sep 6, 2011, 12:55 PM
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toofreakinsexy1 wrote: Thanks for the help, the RRG climbing trip was AWESOME. I've never been so ready to drive 14 hours again to get back. 'A brief history of climb' was epic, we got on the 10's at Bruise Brothers and had a blast. The Motherlode is like sex for the eyes, I've never been so impressed by a cliff. We'll be back in mid-October. How about a suggestion for a first route at the Lode? I'm a 12b/c leader and my projects tend to be up in the mid 13's. I had my eye on either Tuna Town or Bohica... A route that I could jug haul a few bolts up would be nice so I wouldn't have to worry about confronting a hard move down low.
Definitely get on Tuna Town, given your stated climbing level. Pretty much is the textbook enduro jughaul, to a not-too difficult sequence of big crimps at the top that will kick your ass with a full pump on. As one friend of mine says, "there's nothing hard about it, expect for the whole thing."
Other great Lode routes are any of the .12s at the right end, 40 oz & Snooker for good 13a's, and any route on Buckeye Buttress if you want something shorter and more bouldery.
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johnwesely
Sep 6, 2011, 1:06 PM
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toofreakinsexy1 wrote: Thanks for the help, the RRG climbing trip was AWESOME. I've never been so ready to drive 14 hours again to get back. 'A brief history of climb' was epic, we got on the 10's at Bruise Brothers and had a blast. The Motherlode is like sex for the eyes, I've never been so impressed by a cliff. We'll be back in mid-October. How about a suggestion for a first route at the Lode? I'm a 12b/c leader and my projects tend to be up in the mid 13's. I had my eye on either Tuna Town or Bohica... A route that I could jug haul a few bolts up would be nice so I wouldn't have to worry about confronting a hard move down low.
Wait a minute here. You lead 12b/c and project 13s, but you wanted a list of climbs in the .8 to .10 range so you wouldn't get tired? I am confused.
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toofreakinsexy1
Sep 6, 2011, 4:29 PM
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Sweet, Tuna Town it is, thanks for the help. I had two brand new leaders with me on a five day trip so that meant I was leading everything and climbing every day, all day. I'm not gonna get on anything hard especially when I'm used to a 'tall' route being 60 feet up here in NY.
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