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thewyseclimber


Sep 6, 2011, 10:47 AM
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Advice on New England ropes?
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So I'm looking for a new rope: 70m, bi-pattern, around 10mm. I don't really care about dry treated. I prefer how non-dry ropes handle, in general.

I see there is a New England meeting my specs, for a relatively good price, but I've never used New England ropes. What can you tell me about them? I'm mostly interested in handling and durability. I generally use an ATC and a Trango Cinch, although occasionally I use a friend's GriGri.

Other recommendations are welcome as well. I'd like to spend around $200. Unfortunately bi pattern, 70m usually means that's a low estimate.


coastal_climber


Sep 6, 2011, 11:16 AM
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Re: [thewyseclimber] Advice on New England ropes? [In reply to]
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semi-durable. Handling goes pretty fast IMO. There are better ropes...


kovacs69


Sep 6, 2011, 11:28 AM
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Re: [thewyseclimber] Advice on New England ropes? [In reply to]
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I have had good luck with New England ropes. I also use Edelweiss ropes. GX has some good deals running on Edelweiss right now. Most of their 70m bi-patterns are dry ropes though.

http://www.gearexpress.biz/...tegory_Code=ROEDELCO

JB


thewyseclimber


Sep 6, 2011, 11:28 AM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Advice on New England ropes? [In reply to]
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coastal_climber wrote:
semi-durable. Handling goes pretty fast IMO. There are better ropes...

....such as? That is my impression, but any other advice? I've owned two Beals. I like the handling, but not the durability.


moose_droppings


Sep 6, 2011, 11:57 AM
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Re: [thewyseclimber] Advice on New England ropes? [In reply to]
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thewyseclimber wrote:
So I'm looking for a new rope: 70m, bi-pattern, around 10mm. I don't really care about dry treated. I prefer how non-dry ropes handle, in general.

I see there is a New England meeting my specs, for a relatively good price, but I've never used New England ropes. What can you tell me about them? I'm mostly interested in handling and durability. I generally use an ATC and a Trango Cinch, although occasionally I use a friend's GriGri.

Other recommendations are welcome as well. I'd like to spend around $200. Unfortunately bi pattern, 70m usually means that's a low estimate.

I like NE Ropes. I don't believe you can go wrong with them. Supple, good hand and durable. I'll buy more of them when the ones I have now wear out.


billcoe_


Sep 6, 2011, 12:20 PM
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thewyseclimber wrote:
I'm mostly interested in handling and durability

Good and Good. Good to go.


USnavy


Sep 6, 2011, 12:36 PM
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I would say they are one of the best brands on the market. They are surely the largest rope manufacturer in this market (not Maxim, New England). I own five New England ropes and love them all, they are great. Their KMII static rope is the the most burly static rope manufactured IMO. However I would not use any of their Glider ropes for trad simply because they have a really high impact force.


coastal_climber


Sep 6, 2011, 3:23 PM
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thewyseclimber wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
semi-durable. Handling goes pretty fast IMO. There are better ropes...

....such as? That is my impression, but any other advice? I've owned two Beals. I like the handling, but not the durability.


Sterling.


notapplicable


Sep 6, 2011, 7:42 PM
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I have a 9.9mm Glider and I like it a lot. After 6 months of use it is still in great shape and handles well. It is a bit stiffer than Mammut and Monster ropes I've owned but not enough to matter. The 1 over 1 sheath weave is very nice as well.


spikeddem


Sep 6, 2011, 8:09 PM
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Re: [notapplicable] Advice on New England ropes? [In reply to]
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notapplicable wrote:
I have a 9.9mm Glider and I like it a lot. After 6 months of use it is still in great shape and handles well. It is a bit stiffer than Mammut and Monster ropes I've owned but not enough to matter. The 1 over 1 sheath weave is very nice as well.

This purchase was per my recommendation. I later decked on mine. Have you decked on yours yet, NA? Did you lose the decking instructions?


healyje


Sep 6, 2011, 10:51 PM
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USnavy wrote:
However I would not use any of their Glider ropes for trad simply because they have a really high impact force.

Huh? I do nothing but trad, climb over some marginal pro at times, use a 9.9 Glider, and have take enough falls on it to say I have no such concerns about it or any other rope with similar impact ratings. In general, when you add a couple of soft humans to the system the impact rating differences in the ropes are just not that big a deal. I would suggest it's more of a deal to advanced sport climbers who are expert in dynamic belays and possess a "princess and the pea" sensibility around their falling.


notapplicable


Sep 6, 2011, 10:59 PM
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spikeddem wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
I have a 9.9mm Glider and I like it a lot. After 6 months of use it is still in great shape and handles well. It is a bit stiffer than Mammut and Monster ropes I've owned but not enough to matter. The 1 over 1 sheath weave is very nice as well.

This purchase was per my recommendation. I later decked on mine. Have you decked on yours yet, NA? Did you lose the decking instructions?

Thankfully I read the supplemental handbook online which contained an unabridged list of "Best Practices".

Not decking was #34 subsection b, if I remember correctly. Dodged a bullet with that one for sure.


thewyseclimber


Sep 7, 2011, 6:43 AM
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I think I've narrowed it down to the New England Glider 9.9mm vs the Edelweiss Element 10.2.

Any thoughts on the comparison? Thanks all for the input.


USnavy


Sep 7, 2011, 4:16 PM
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thewyseclimber wrote:
I think I've narrowed it down to the New England Glider 9.9mm vs the Edelweiss Element 10.2.

Any thoughts on the comparison? Thanks all for the input.
They are both good ropes, although Maxim is probably a bit more reputable of a brand than Edelweiss in my opinion. However you need to keep in mind the specifications of those ropes are at extreme opposite ends. The Edelweiss rope will stretch a lot, (9.5% static, 37% dynamic) where the Maxim wont stretch nearly as much (somewhere around 5% static, 29% dynamic). So of you plan to climb sport or top rope a lot, I would steer away from the Edelweiss.


camjammer


Dec 31, 2011, 11:01 AM
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Re: [healyje] Advice on New England ropes? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
USnavy wrote:
However I would not use any of their Glider ropes for trad simply because they have a really high impact force.

Huh? I do nothing but trad, climb over some marginal pro at times, use a 9.9 Glider, and have take enough falls on it to say I have no such concerns about it or any other rope with similar impact ratings. In general, when you add a couple of soft humans to the system the impact rating differences in the ropes are just not that big a deal. I would suggest it's more of a deal to advanced sport climbers who are expert in dynamic belays and possess a "princess and the pea" sensibility around their falling.

healyje, is the 9.9 Glider you use std or double dry?
In reply to:


(This post was edited by camjammer on Dec 31, 2011, 11:22 AM)


healyje


Dec 31, 2011, 12:27 PM
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2X Dry...


dan2see


Dec 31, 2011, 6:21 PM
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Re: [thewyseclimber] Advice on New England ropes? [In reply to]
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Always choose the rope with the coolest color.


notapplicable


Dec 31, 2011, 6:52 PM
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dan2see wrote:
Always choose the rope with the coolest color.

I don't think I've seen a more handsome rope than the 9.9 glider.




acorneau


Dec 31, 2011, 7:01 PM
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My second rope ever was a Maxim/NE rope that was almost this exact same color.

Still have the remnants in my garage (somewhere).


dan2see


Jan 1, 2012, 10:54 AM
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Re: [thewyseclimber] Advice on New England ropes? [In reply to]
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Actually, experience shows how these ropes are the best choices:



New England Maxim "Apex", Single, Green/Yellow
10.2 mm,
"STD-DRY" dry core, non-dry sheath
12 falls, 70.0 gm/m, impact 9.4 kN, static elongation 4.8%, dynamic elongation 29%
excellent feel, low friction for Rockies limestone.



Mammut half-rope for ice:
8.5 mm, dry for ice
colors: blue or orange
"The high sheath proportion and tight weave make the Genesis a very durable half rope."
"Each yarn is Teflon-coated to reduce friction and fully utilize each fibre when loaded, for a higher strength-to-weight ratio."
"Sheath and core are both dry-treated to protect from moisture and dirt."



Static cord for cordalette:
7mm


(This post was edited by dan2see on Jan 1, 2012, 11:13 AM)
Attachments: New-England-Maxim-Apex-10-2.jpg (55.4 KB)
  Mammut-Genesis-Half-8-5.jpg (56.2 KB)
  Static-7-mm.jpg (31.6 KB)


jolery


Feb 10, 2012, 10:20 AM
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Re: [thewyseclimber] Advice on New England ropes? [In reply to]
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thewyseclimber wrote:
So I'm looking for a new rope: 70m, bi-pattern, around 10mm. I don't really care about dry treated. I prefer how non-dry ropes handle, in general.

I see there is a New England meeting my specs, for a relatively good price, but I've never used New England ropes. What can you tell me about them? I'm mostly interested in handling and durability. I generally use an ATC and a Trango Cinch, although occasionally I use a friend's GriGri.

Other recommendations are welcome as well. I'd like to spend around $200. Unfortunately bi pattern, 70m usually means that's a low estimate.

What did you go with? I've used NE ropes exclusively for the last several ropes. I've had a couple of Apex 10.5 and loved those - very durable and good handling. My current is a 9.9 mm glider bipattern. Handles like a dream, quick to belay and clip, but doesn't ever feel like it's too small for a standard ATC. The ultra tight weave of the Glider seems to make it susceptible to sheath damage more so than other weave patterns but mine is in great condition after a year of heavy use from working sport routes to long alpine routes.


thewyseclimber


Feb 10, 2012, 12:50 PM
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Re: [jolery] Advice on New England ropes? [In reply to]
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jolery wrote:
What did you go with?

Ended up getting a Sterling Marathon 9.9 60m bi pattern. I only had the chance to do maybe 15 routes on it before the season was done, but whipped on it quite a few times. So far I am happy with it, and very pleased to finally have the bi-pattern.


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