Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
Jacks Canyon Adopt an Anchor 10/01/11
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


sonso45


Sep 8, 2011, 11:48 AM
Post #1 of 6 (2337 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2002
Posts: 944

Jacks Canyon Adopt an Anchor 10/01/11  (North_America: United_States: Arizona)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

One of Arizona's most popular climbing destinations is getting loved a bit much. The Concerned Climbers of AZ is organizing a fundraiser at Jacks Canyon on October 01, 2011 for the purpose of replacing worn anchors. If you can attend we will see you there and if not, you can still help maintain the climbs.

CCA is accepting $10 donations and in consideration will give you a bolt/piece of anchor with a certificate of replacement: route name, date replaced and a CCA sticker.

If you wish to contribute and can't attend, please contact the CCA: loclimbs@gmail.com


(This post was edited by sonso45 on Sep 8, 2011, 12:00 PM)


gblauer
Moderator

Sep 8, 2011, 12:42 PM
Post #2 of 6 (2316 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 3, 2002
Posts: 2783

Re: [sonso45] Jacks Canyon Adopt an Anchor 10/01/11 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I thought Jacks was a hoot and I will gladly adopt and anchor.


jbone


Sep 8, 2011, 1:13 PM
Post #3 of 6 (2303 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2002
Posts: 460

Re: [sonso45] Jacks Canyon Adopt an Anchor 10/01/11 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Are you putting new Weld-Shuts back in or is it possible to convert to conventional hangers?


sonso45


Sep 8, 2011, 2:53 PM
Post #4 of 6 (2283 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2002
Posts: 944

Re: [jbone] Jacks Canyon Adopt an Anchor 10/01/11 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

We are presently looking to buy or have hardware donated. Dee has gear she said we could use. I have been looking.


sonso45


Sep 10, 2011, 9:27 AM
Post #5 of 6 (2228 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2002
Posts: 944

Re: [sonso45] Jacks Canyon Adopt an Anchor 10/01/11 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Jbone, my preference is to move away from cold shuts of all kinds and use beefier hardware. Dee has mentioned using mussy hooks.


jbone


Sep 10, 2011, 10:45 AM
Post #6 of 6 (2215 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2002
Posts: 460

Re: [sonso45] Jacks Canyon Adopt an Anchor 10/01/11 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'd always kinda figured there would be some hindsight going on when the topic of anchor replacement came up. Although a weld shut can allow you to rap off a route without leaving any gear, it does tend to wear quicker because of it.

I seem to recall quite a few of the weld-shuts had been recessed into place by the bolter using the drill to relieve a portion of the rock behind the weld-shut, apparently this reduced the possibility of the weld shut spinning in place.

With this in mind it may be difficult to replace every weld-shut. Some routes may require a few weld-shuts because of the recessing and it might be more practical to mix gear rather than put another hole next to an old hole that may be unusable with a hanger.

When it comes to anchors, and your forced to re-use a weld-shut, it may be most practical to use length of chain and link that to the weld-shut.

I'm sure you guys discussed all of this at your meeting, hopefully this endeavor can add a few more decades to Jacks.


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook