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Gmburns2000


Sep 7, 2011, 4:08 PM
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Re: [donald949] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Nice Don. I think this is the most you've been able to climb on a family vacation in a long time.


gblauer
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Sep 7, 2011, 4:23 PM
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Re: [donald949] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Thanks for your west coast TR. Sounds like you had some fun over the weekend.


donald949


Sep 7, 2011, 4:26 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Nice Don. I think this is the most you've been able to climb on a family vacation in a long time.
Thanks.
Yes, the family vacations don't ussually produce climbing. We did all get out a couple years ago, for a two day weekend in Lone Pine that saw a bunch of pitches. But that was a dedicated climbing trip where the family tagged along. It was also the one where we got stuck on the wrong side of the house along the 395 burning down.


zealotnoob


Sep 8, 2011, 4:45 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
zealotnoob wrote:
I like the spirit of this thread. Here is some writing from a recent trip to the New River Gorge and the Gunks:

http://bailureblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/proj.html
http://bailureblog.blogspot.com/...unks-initiation.html

Nice couple of stories there. I really liked the first one and how it ended. Nice touch.

Thanks. I aspire to communicate a glimmer of the experience to family and friends.


(This post was edited by zealotnoob on Sep 12, 2011, 9:07 AM)


kennoyce


Sep 9, 2011, 7:21 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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So, I always enjoy reading the posts on this thread, but I haven't participated much. I finally made a blog just to document my climbing trips, so I think I'll start posting up whenever I update it like Gmburns does.

Don't worry, if you don't want to read my blog I won't be offended, but just FYI, the blog is only about climbing, and there are no ads.

See my first three TRs at http://kensclimbingblog.blogspot.com/


gblauer
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Sep 9, 2011, 8:34 AM
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Re: [kennoyce] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Holy crap...I can't believe you took your tiny offspring up a 500 foot climb. Wow.


(This post was edited by gblauer on Sep 9, 2011, 8:44 AM)


donald949


Sep 9, 2011, 8:57 AM
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Re: [kennoyce] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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kennoyce wrote:
So, I always enjoy reading the posts on this thread, but I haven't participated much. I finally made a blog just to document my climbing trips, so I think I'll start posting up whenever I update it like Gmburns does.

Don't worry, if you don't want to read my blog I won't be offended, but just FYI, the blog is only about climbing, and there are no ads.

See my first three TRs at http://kensclimbingblog.blogspot.com/
Nice write ups Ken.
I love Dome Rock. Been jonesing to get back on the Tree Route for a couple years. Last year a fire forced us further north to Courtright.
Did you have any good online Beta for the Portal? The guide I have doesn't give anything much for moderates for a poor climber like me.
Anyrate, nice write up. Got the kids up the Tree Route, well done.


kennoyce


Sep 9, 2011, 9:08 AM
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Re: [gblauer] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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gblauer wrote:
Holy crap...I can't believe you took your tiny offspring up a 500 foot climb. Wow.

Yeah, it was easy enough I wouldn't have been worried about soloing it, so I figured it would be okay to haul them along roped up. Good times.


kennoyce


Sep 9, 2011, 9:13 AM
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Re: [donald949] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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donald949 wrote:
kennoyce wrote:
So, I always enjoy reading the posts on this thread, but I haven't participated much. I finally made a blog just to document my climbing trips, so I think I'll start posting up whenever I update it like Gmburns does.

Don't worry, if you don't want to read my blog I won't be offended, but just FYI, the blog is only about climbing, and there are no ads.

See my first three TRs at http://kensclimbingblog.blogspot.com/
Nice write ups Ken.
I love Dome Rock. Been jonesing to get back on the Tree Route for a couple years. Last year a fire forced us further north to Courtright.
Did you have any good online Beta for the Portal? The guide I have doesn't give anything much for moderates for a poor climber like me.
Anyrate, nice write up. Got the kids up the Tree Route, well done.


Sorry Don, I don't even have the guide for the area. I just lookup up info on MP. It's a beautiful area though, I'd like to head back without the kids some time.


Gmburns2000


Sep 9, 2011, 1:40 PM
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Re: [kennoyce] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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kennoyce wrote:
So, I always enjoy reading the posts on this thread, but I haven't participated much. I finally made a blog just to document my climbing trips, so I think I'll start posting up whenever I update it like Gmburns does.

Don't worry, if you don't want to read my blog I won't be offended, but just FYI, the blog is only about climbing, and there are no ads.

See my first three TRs at http://kensclimbingblog.blogspot.com/

Nice Ken. I think that pic with the kiddo is badass.


donald949


Sep 9, 2011, 3:03 PM
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Re: [kennoyce] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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kennoyce wrote:
donald949 wrote:
kennoyce wrote:
So, I always enjoy reading the posts on this thread, but I haven't participated much. I finally made a blog just to document my climbing trips, so I think I'll start posting up whenever I update it like Gmburns does.

Don't worry, if you don't want to read my blog I won't be offended, but just FYI, the blog is only about climbing, and there are no ads.

See my first three TRs at http://kensclimbingblog.blogspot.com/
Nice write ups Ken.
I love Dome Rock. Been jonesing to get back on the Tree Route for a couple years. Last year a fire forced us further north to Courtright.
Did you have any good online Beta for the Portal? The guide I have doesn't give anything much for moderates for a poor climber like me.
Anyrate, nice write up. Got the kids up the Tree Route, well done.


Sorry Don, I don't even have the guide for the area. I just lookup up info on MP. It's a beautiful area though, I'd like to head back without the kids some time.
The mountains in that area are beautiful. I've climbed a bit right below there in the Alabama Hills. Lots of moderates 7's, 8's, and 9's for me. Plenty of 10's and 11's too. We usually go further north to Mammoth in the summer, but I need to explore the Portal and some of the other canyons for summer climbing.
Thanks though.


kennoyce


Sep 12, 2011, 8:53 AM
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Re: [kennoyce] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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kennoyce wrote:
So, I always enjoy reading the posts on this thread, but I haven't participated much. I finally made a blog just to document my climbing trips, so I think I'll start posting up whenever I update it like Gmburns does.

Don't worry, if you don't want to read my blog I won't be offended, but just FYI, the blog is only about climbing, and there are no ads.

See my first three TRs at http://kensclimbingblog.blogspot.com/

I put up another post about a trip to Tahquitz!


Gmburns2000


Sep 12, 2011, 11:50 AM
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Re: [kennoyce] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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kennoyce wrote:
kennoyce wrote:
So, I always enjoy reading the posts on this thread, but I haven't participated much. I finally made a blog just to document my climbing trips, so I think I'll start posting up whenever I update it like Gmburns does.

Don't worry, if you don't want to read my blog I won't be offended, but just FYI, the blog is only about climbing, and there are no ads.

See my first three TRs at http://kensclimbingblog.blogspot.com/

I put up another post about a trip to Tahquitz!

Nice Ken. Sounds like a good day despite getting a bit off route. Glad it didn't turn into an epic!


dagibbs


Sep 12, 2011, 2:33 PM
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Not quite as planned... but good [In reply to]
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My weekend didn't quite go as planned -- the plan was two days of climbing at Montagne d'Argent with Celine and Pawel -- but Celine wore through one of her shoes on Saturday, and didn't want to climb any more. So, we took down tents and everything and drove home instead of camping overnight. Still, had a good day of climbing.

Then, Sunday, Bertrand, K8, and I headed up to Lac Sam again. I put up one First Ascent on lead, and we did 5 other new routes on top-rope. Holy cow do I feel like I inhaled a bunch of lichen dust, though.


Gmburns2000


Sep 12, 2011, 2:55 PM
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dagibbs wrote:
Holy cow do I feel like I inhaled a bunch of lichen dust, though.

I wonder how much of a health hazard that is.


dagibbs


Sep 12, 2011, 2:57 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Not quite as planned... but good [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
dagibbs wrote:
Holy cow do I feel like I inhaled a bunch of lichen dust, though.

I wonder how much of a health hazard that is.

I really don't know. I know that if I'm seriously scrubbing a route, I'll wear a dust mask to reduce the exposure, but if I'm just climbing, and scrape lichen off here and there by hand, looking for holds or placements, I don't bother.

It probably depends on total exposure level. Like so many other things. And, I'll bet noone has done much testing on it.


Gmburns2000


Sep 12, 2011, 3:07 PM
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dagibbs wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
dagibbs wrote:
Holy cow do I feel like I inhaled a bunch of lichen dust, though.

I wonder how much of a health hazard that is.

I really don't know. I know that if I'm seriously scrubbing a route, I'll wear a dust mask to reduce the exposure, but if I'm just climbing, and scrape lichen off here and there by hand, looking for holds or placements, I don't bother.

It probably depends on total exposure level. Like so many other things. And, I'll bet noone has done much testing on it.
probably not for climbing, but I bet testing on this type of stuff is actually pretty common.


dagibbs


Sep 12, 2011, 3:16 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Not quite as planned... but good [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
dagibbs wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
dagibbs wrote:
Holy cow do I feel like I inhaled a bunch of lichen dust, though.

I wonder how much of a health hazard that is.

I really don't know. I know that if I'm seriously scrubbing a route, I'll wear a dust mask to reduce the exposure, but if I'm just climbing, and scrape lichen off here and there by hand, looking for holds or placements, I don't bother.

It probably depends on total exposure level. Like so many other things. And, I'll bet noone has done much testing on it.
probably not for climbing, but I bet testing on this type of stuff is actually pretty common.

Oh, for other stuff, I agree. Like I'd expect there've been lots of studies about inhaling plaster dust. Or, even, rock dust from blasting rock during mining or road construction. Or concrete dust from cutting concrete, etc. The normal work-place exposure kind of stuff.

I just wonder if there is any regular day job that would involve lots of exposure to lichen dust, and if it would have been studied. (A quick google didn't show anything specifically relevant. But, it may just be a failure of my google-fu.)


jakedatc


Sep 16, 2011, 11:56 AM
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Re: [gblauer] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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gblauer wrote:
I needed to keep it super mellow so I lead Arch to the GT ledge (rope drag was crazy) and Mitch took the last pitch. There is a fixed tricam on the start of P2 if you feel like working on it. We did not. There is also a fixed cam on the second pitch of Wrist. I thought about heading up Wrist to see if I could wrestle the cam loose, but, then I remembered I would have to climb the route. Nah...let MItch lead Arch, he needs the practice.

Gail i just re-read this today.. don't bother. the thing is in there solid. That pitch is fun though.


Dip


Sep 16, 2011, 12:55 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Not quite as planned... but good [In reply to]
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Sooo i'm exactly 24 days from my annual week long no wife no kid October climbing trip. This year my friends and i have decided on New Hampshire, unless something dumb like a week-long rain spell happens. In that case we'll have to pick somewhere else. But, since that's definitely not going to happen, the granite state it shall be. I know a lot of you who post in this thread climb up that way regularly. I've never been up there for anything, climbing or otherwise. Looking for some suggestions and experiences to guide me on my way.

First, The Whitney Gilman and Mobey Grape are absolute must do's. We'll be getting to Cannon late Monday night, and plan on dedicating Tuesday and Wednesday morning to once of those two each. I would assume we'll get down each day in time to do a little "cragging" so to speak. What other shorter routes on Cannon are good? That hand traverse on the old man's dog looks pretty cool.

After our two days in Franconia we're looking to spend 2 or 3 days in North Conway. Looking to to do Thin Air with Pine Tree Eliminate as well as Recompense at Cathedral. Maybe Sliding board or one or two of the long bolted mid-5.10 routes. Anything else "Must do" in Conway?

If there's time at the end of the week we're going to swing by Rumney, just for sake of going once, but of all the places this would be the first one thrown out. Any advice is welcome. Grade doesn't matter if it protects well.


Gmburns2000


Sep 16, 2011, 3:41 PM
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Re: [Dip] Not quite as planned... but good [In reply to]
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Dip wrote:
Sooo i'm exactly 24 days from my annual week long no wife no kid October climbing trip. This year my friends and i have decided on New Hampshire, unless something dumb like a week-long rain spell happens. In that case we'll have to pick somewhere else. But, since that's definitely not going to happen, the granite state it shall be. I know a lot of you who post in this thread climb up that way regularly. I've never been up there for anything, climbing or otherwise. Looking for some suggestions and experiences to guide me on my way.

First, The Whitney Gilman and Mobey Grape are absolute must do's. We'll be getting to Cannon late Monday night, and plan on dedicating Tuesday and Wednesday morning to once of those two each. I would assume we'll get down each day in time to do a little "cragging" so to speak. What other shorter routes on Cannon are good? That hand traverse on the old man's dog looks pretty cool.

After our two days in Franconia we're looking to spend 2 or 3 days in North Conway. Looking to to do Thin Air with Pine Tree Eliminate as well as Recompense at Cathedral. Maybe Sliding board or one or two of the long bolted mid-5.10 routes. Anything else "Must do" in Conway?

If there's time at the end of the week we're going to swing by Rumney, just for sake of going once, but of all the places this would be the first one thrown out. Any advice is welcome. Grade doesn't matter if it protects well.

Cannon: The approach up through the talus field to the base is about 1 hour to 1.5 hours, depending on how fit you are. If you're fast then I would think 45min is pretty doable. For me, I tend to get to the base of WG in 1hr - 1hr 15min. I'm not fit, but I'm not really slow going up approach trails either.

Climbs that go to the top only have walk-offs, all of which are long, in my opinion, and harder than the approach. I'm slow going down, but it usually takes me a good 1.5 - 2hrs to walk off WG. The walk-off from Moby Grape is even longer (the climb is several pitches longer than WG).

However, somewhere, and I'm not sure where, there is a short-cut from the descent trail on the climber's right of Cannon (the Moby Grape descent trail) that will take you back to the base without having to go all the way to the bottom. You may be able to get some of the shorter pitches in if you find that short-cut. Otherwise, plan on one day per climb if you're going to the top. The same is true for WG, but I don't know if there is a short-cut back to the talus off that trail (which is on the climber's left). Don't even think about trying to get to the top of Cannon to meet the Moby descent trail if you're doing WG. Here's why (old post, sorry for the lack of formatting)

Definitely take a look at Vertigo (5.9 A0), or VMC Direct (5.10+).

Ask Olderic or Edge for beta on the shortcut from the climber's right descent trail. I have no idea where it is. I don't know if they'll know, but they might.

North Conway: Yeah, the routes you listed are great. Thin Air-to-Pine Tree Eliminate is a great route. From there, walk left and find the trail back down to the Upper Refuse Ledge (you'll walk past the Barber Wall and several classic, single-pitch crack climbs (such as Nutcracker (5.10a)). There you'll find a nice 5.8 called Black Lung to the right of the classic Upper Refuse (5.4 or something like that). But the real classic off this ledge is Book of Solemnity (5.10a), which is the sweet dihedral / roof on the right of the ledge (it's a massive ledge, btw). If no one is climing BoS, then you can rap back down to the ledge to do the other climbs without walking. If folks are climbing, though, the walk back to the ledge isn't so hard.

The North End will offer some nice single pitch climbs such as: They Died Laughing (5.9), Bird's Nest (5.9-), and The Slot (5.10b). All are wonderfully protectable. There are a couple of 5.5 and 5.6 warm-up routes, there, too. The North End is the area right at the bottom of the road to the top (and the descent walk-off). It's right near the gate at the bottom of the road.

Recompense...wow.

Over on Whitehorse, the Hotter Than Hell area (far climber's left) has some really nice climbs ranging from fairly easy to stiff. Most are only a couple of pitches long (up to four), but they're worth it. Children's Crusade (in between the big slabs and the Hotter than Hell area), is a nice 3-pitch route at 5.9 and 4 pitch route at 5.11a if you're so inclined.

I think you can do the big slabs easily and get more of the smaller stuff done in a day, too, particularly if you're fast and good on slab. I think the descent trail is much easier than the one on Cannon.

Rumney: skip it (no, just kidding - I just wanted to get a rise out of Jake). But if you're going to go, hit Jake up. He's the resident freak show and he'll entertain you all day on all the best stuff.

Does that help?


Dip


Sep 16, 2011, 3:44 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Dip wrote:
Sooo i'm exactly 24 days from my annual week long no wife no kid October climbing trip. This year my friends and i have decided on New Hampshire, unless something dumb like a week-long rain spell happens. In that case we'll have to pick somewhere else. But, since that's definitely not going to happen, the granite state it shall be. I know a lot of you who post in this thread climb up that way regularly. I've never been up there for anything, climbing or otherwise. Looking for some suggestions and experiences to guide me on my way.

First, The Whitney Gilman and Mobey Grape are absolute must do's. We'll be getting to Cannon late Monday night, and plan on dedicating Tuesday and Wednesday morning to once of those two each. I would assume we'll get down each day in time to do a little "cragging" so to speak. What other shorter routes on Cannon are good? That hand traverse on the old man's dog looks pretty cool.

After our two days in Franconia we're looking to spend 2 or 3 days in North Conway. Looking to to do Thin Air with Pine Tree Eliminate as well as Recompense at Cathedral. Maybe Sliding board or one or two of the long bolted mid-5.10 routes. Anything else "Must do" in Conway?

If there's time at the end of the week we're going to swing by Rumney, just for sake of going once, but of all the places this would be the first one thrown out. Any advice is welcome. Grade doesn't matter if it protects well.

Cannon: The approach up through the talus field to the base is about 1 hour to 1.5 hours, depending on how fit you are. If you're fast then I would think 45min is pretty doable. For me, I tend to get to the base of WG in 1hr - 1hr 15min. I'm not fit, but I'm not really slow going up approach trails either.

Climbs that go to the top only have walk-offs, all of which are long, in my opinion, and harder than the approach. I'm slow going down, but it usually takes me a good 1.5 - 2hrs to walk off WG. The walk-off from Moby Grape is even longer (the climb is several pitches longer than WG).

However, somewhere, and I'm not sure where, there is a short-cut from the descent trail on the climber's right of Cannon (the Moby Grape descent trail) that will take you back to the base without having to go all the way to the bottom. You may be able to get some of the shorter pitches in if you find that short-cut. Otherwise, plan on one day per climb if you're going to the top. The same is true for WG, but I don't know if there is a short-cut back to the talus off that trail (which is on the climber's left). Don't even think about trying to get to the top of Cannon to meet the Moby descent trail if you're doing WG. Here's why (old post, sorry for the lack of formatting)

Definitely take a look at Vertigo (5.9 A0), or VMC Direct (5.10+).

Ask Olderic or Edge for beta on the shortcut from the climber's right descent trail. I have no idea where it is. I don't know if they'll know, but they might.

North Conway: Yeah, the routes you listed are great. Thin Air-to-Pine Tree Eliminate is a great route. From there, walk left and find the trail back down to the Upper Refuse Ledge (you'll walk past the Barber Wall and several classic, single-pitch crack climbs (such as Nutcracker (5.10a)). There you'll find a nice 5.8 called Black Lung to the right of the classic Upper Refuse (5.4 or something like that). But the real classic off this ledge is Book of Solemnity (5.10a), which is the sweet dihedral / roof on the right of the ledge (it's a massive ledge, btw). If no one is climing BoS, then you can rap back down to the ledge to do the other climbs without walking. If folks are climbing, though, the walk back to the ledge isn't so hard.

The North End will offer some nice single pitch climbs such as: They Died Laughing (5.9), Bird's Nest (5.9-), and The Slot (5.10b). All are wonderfully protectable. There are a couple of 5.5 and 5.6 warm-up routes, there, too. The North End is the area right at the bottom of the road to the top (and the descent walk-off). It's right near the gate at the bottom of the road.

Recompense...wow.

Over on Whitehorse, the Hotter Than Hell area (far climber's left) has some really nice climbs ranging from fairly easy to stiff. Most are only a couple of pitches long (up to four), but they're worth it. Children's Crusade (in between the big slabs and the Hotter than Hell area), is a nice 3-pitch route at 5.9 and 4 pitch route at 5.11a if you're so inclined.

I think you can do the big slabs easily and get more of the smaller stuff done in a day, too, particularly if you're fast and good on slab. I think the descent trail is much easier than the one on Cannon.

Rumney: skip it (no, just kidding - I just wanted to get a rise out of Jake). But if you're going to go, hit Jake up. He's the resident freak show and he'll entertain you all day on all the best stuff.

Does that help?


Yeah that's pretty much exactly what i was looking for. Thanks man.


jakedatc


Sep 16, 2011, 7:33 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Not quite as planned... but good [In reply to]
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Won't be available. see bolt.. clip bolt. repeat.


Gmburns2000


Sep 16, 2011, 7:40 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Not quite as planned... but good [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
Won't be available. see bolt.. clip bolt. repeat.

what, are you going to Europe or something?


blueeyedclimber


Sep 16, 2011, 7:59 PM
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Re: [Dip] Not quite as planned... but good [In reply to]
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Dip wrote:
Sooo i'm exactly 24 days from my annual week long no wife no kid October climbing trip. This year my friends and i have decided on New Hampshire, unless something dumb like a week-long rain spell happens. In that case we'll have to pick somewhere else. But, since that's definitely not going to happen, the granite state it shall be. I know a lot of you who post in this thread climb up that way regularly. I've never been up there for anything, climbing or otherwise. Looking for some suggestions and experiences to guide me on my way.

Greg gave you some pretty good info and it seems you already have a pretty good itinerary but I'll try to help as well. What grades at each area are you looking for. I have done a lot of routes in NH and can give you hundreds of recommendations.

In reply to:
First, The Whitney Gilman and Mobey Grape are absolute must do's. We'll be getting to Cannon late Monday night, and plan on dedicating Tuesday and Wednesday morning to once of those two each. I would assume we'll get down each day in time to do a little "cragging" so to speak. What other shorter routes on Cannon are good? That hand traverse on the old man's dog looks pretty cool.


Those are both classic routes and are must-dos. Moby is the second best 5.8 I've ever done, second only to Nutcracker in Yosemite. Be careful assuming anything on Cannon. The route finding towards the top of the cliff can be tricky and so can the descent of Moby. The descent of WG is easy to find but it brings you all the way down, making cragging afterwards not an exciting proposition. You'd probably be better off ccragging beforehand.

As far as cragging routes go, I have done Slow and Easy (5.8) and Sticky Fingers (5.10). SF was a little scary at the top. They were both good though.

In reply to:
After our two days in Franconia we're looking to spend 2 or 3 days in North Conway. Looking to to do Thin Air with Pine Tree Eliminate as well as Recompense at Cathedral. Maybe Sliding board or one or two of the long bolted mid-5.10 routes. Anything else "Must do" in Conway?

There are a lot of must-dos in NoCo but you won't have time for all of them. Make sure you do the Beast Flake variation to Reccompense. Other must do's are:
Hotter than Hell (5.9) to Inferno (5.8)
Atlantis (5.9) or (10b)
Lost Souls (5.10a), does have a runout first pitch
They died laughing (5.9)
Diedre (5.10a)
Intimidation (5.10c)
Nutcracker (5.10a)

In reply to:
If there's time at the end of the week we're going to swing by Rumney, just for sake of going once, but of all the places this would be the first one thrown out. Any advice is welcome. Grade doesn't matter if it protects well.

Rumney is ok if you like clipping bolts, but IMO the good climbing doesn't start until 11b. Once again, if you narrow down grades I would be able to give you more suggestions.


Have Fun!

Josh

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