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rockyracoonfell
Sep 9, 2011, 5:08 AM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2011
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hey folks, just started bouldering. i work out alot doing pullups and muscleups and such body based movements and once i got into bouldering it all came into place except the focus on the fingers and forearms. it's uncanny how u can do pull off acrobatic and muscular feats but then u turn to bouldering and it humbles you. i do feel though that if i eat light the day before i become progressively relaxed as i move from one hold to the next and what was once a lumbering leap turns to smooth reach. have others experienced this? that with more focus on the diet as opposed to muscular training the problems become much more solvable?
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sungam
Sep 9, 2011, 4:57 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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While I have noticed that nutrition can make a massive difference in performance, I don't think that nutrition and muscular training are mutually exclusive. You can have great nutrition and train hard. In fact, putting effort into training without having the a suitable diet to make the most of your training is plain stupid, and reeks of wasted time and effort.
You relaxation thing is likely less to do with your diet and more to do with you staying more relaxed.
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ghisino
Sep 9, 2011, 6:12 PM
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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
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one thing that could be happening is that your intestines are a bit emptier.
that makes you a little lighter and a bit more flexible.
i'm serious
http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=671
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dagibbs
Sep 9, 2011, 7:29 PM
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I saw the title ("bar training") and I immediately pictured one-arm-curls with the weight be a full beer-stein...
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olderic
Sep 9, 2011, 7:46 PM
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dagibbs wrote: I saw the title ("bar training") and I immediately pictured one-arm-curls with the weight be a full beer-stein...
Probably as useful. You can do all the bar training that the OP describes for a month. Or you can loose 5 pounds in that month. After that month is over which technique will help you climb better? Don't get all hand-wringing you are going to create an anorexic army with that attitude. The simple truth is that you will climb better if you weigh less. Yo may keel over and die from some deficiency in a year - but you will climb well along the way.
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sungam
Sep 10, 2011, 10:40 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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ghisino wrote: one thing that could be happening is that your intestines are a bit emptier. that makes you a little lighter and a bit more flexible. i'm serious http://robbiephillips.co.uk/blog/?p=671
Good to see that he is getting an international readership. He is a smart kid, even if he did snap the crux hold off of a project I had been working for 3 years 
Unforgivable!
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damienclimber
Sep 10, 2011, 11:45 PM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2011
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great thread btw !
1. pick out several bars in a specific area
2. find a few buddies to hang out with
3. have a light snack
4. figure out driver or hotel for the nite
5. dress 
6. choose your fav poison and get drunk!
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