Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing:
Perma-draws at Rumney
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Sport Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


toofreakinsexy1


Sep 10, 2011, 10:18 AM
Post #1 of 11 (3054 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 15, 2007
Posts: 53

Perma-draws at Rumney
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So the new Rock and Ice brings up some good points and sides of arguements concerning fixed protection at overhung cliffs at places like Rumney and the RRG. Last weekend I was at Rumney on Barracuda and the sun bleached dogbones aren't super comforting. So I was wondering, what if every time I went out to these cliffs I replaced the worst looking quickdraw out there with a Perma-draw as sort of a payment back into these amazing places I get to climb that people before me had worked hard to clean and bolt. I realize there's a lot of climbing politics that say the fixed protection shouldn't be there. But it is. So why not make it safer for everyone? Thoughts?


tH1e-swiN1e


Sep 10, 2011, 11:15 AM
Post #2 of 11 (3043 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 28, 2011
Posts: 192

Re: [toofreakinsexy1] Perma-draws at Rumney [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (7 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you cant clean it, dont climb it.


caughtinside


Sep 10, 2011, 12:13 PM
Post #3 of 11 (3031 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30433

Re: [tH1e-swiN1e] Perma-draws at Rumney [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

tH1e-swiN1e wrote:
If you cant clean it, dont climb it.

Did you read the dude's post? No one cleans it... and lots of people climb it.


Gmburns2000


Sep 10, 2011, 1:52 PM
Post #4 of 11 (3009 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15175

Re: [tH1e-swiN1e] Perma-draws at Rumney [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

tH1e-swiN1e wrote:
If you cant clean it, dont climb it.

huh?


Gmburns2000


Sep 10, 2011, 1:55 PM
Post #5 of 11 (3007 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15175

Re: [Gmburns2000] Perma-draws at Rumney [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Gmburns2000 wrote:
tH1e-swiN1e wrote:
If you cant clean it, dont climb it.

huh?

since editing is weak and I forgot to answer the OP...sure, why not? Sounds like a good thing to do to me. I'd probably talk with the locals to get an idea of what kind of draws they want up there first, but someone has to replace the gear at some point anyway.


jakedatc


Sep 10, 2011, 2:12 PM
Post #6 of 11 (3002 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054

Re: [toofreakinsexy1] Perma-draws at Rumney [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

toofreakinsexy1 wrote:
So the new Rock and Ice brings up some good points and sides of arguements concerning fixed protection at overhung cliffs at places like Rumney and the RRG. Last weekend I was at Rumney on Barracuda and the sun bleached dogbones aren't super comforting. So I was wondering, what if every time I went out to these cliffs I replaced the worst looking quickdraw out there with a Perma-draw as sort of a payment back into these amazing places I get to climb that people before me had worked hard to clean and bolt. I realize there's a lot of climbing politics that say the fixed protection shouldn't be there. But it is. So why not make it safer for everyone? Thoughts?

They are putting perma draws on a few routes at Waimea. There is a thread about it on Mtn project and i think NEclimbs. Can PM James Otey over there about donating though.


Partner jammer


Sep 20, 2011, 10:20 PM
Post #7 of 11 (2818 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3468

Re: [jakedatc] Perma-draws at Rumney [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You can email the RCA's new group called rumney-upkeep, and ask them if they don't mind you doing this. Their email is rumney-upkeep@googlegroups.com


jt512


Sep 20, 2011, 10:50 PM
Post #8 of 11 (2811 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [tH1e-swiN1e] Perma-draws at Rumney [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

tH1e-swiN1e wrote:
If you cant clean it, dont climb it.

If you can't think, don't post.

Jay


shockabuku


Sep 21, 2011, 6:00 AM
Post #9 of 11 (2784 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4863

Re: [toofreakinsexy1] Perma-draws at Rumney [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Replacing old stuff sounds reasonable to me. Seems a different issue than putting up fixed gear where there was none. For ~$16 you can put up a stainless cable draw that should last until


superchuffer


Sep 23, 2011, 3:11 PM
Post #10 of 11 (2626 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 9, 2011
Posts: 294

Re: [tH1e-swiN1e] Perma-draws at Rumney [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

tH1e-swiN1e wrote:
If you cant clean it, dont climb it.

exactly my point with 'trad' chain anchors, horrible eyesores that they are


essay


Sep 23, 2011, 4:02 PM
Post #11 of 11 (2612 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 23, 2011
Posts: 99

Re: [superchuffer] Perma-draws at Rumney [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

superchuffer wrote:
tH1e-swiN1e wrote:
If you cant clean it, dont climb it.

exactly my point with 'trad' chain anchors, horrible eyesores that they are


That is exactly what I think of punting chuffers, eyesores! You and those trad chain anchors have more in common than you think.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Sport Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook