Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing:
Sport Route Top Anchors
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Sport Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


kindasleepy


Sep 11, 2011, 4:33 PM
Post #1 of 15 (3335 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 18, 2003
Posts: 51

Sport Route Top Anchors
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I am wondering what other developers are using for top anchors on routes they put up. I typically use Fixe Ring Rappel Anchors in pairs. I have started developing a steep face which would very nice to have fixed chain draws on. They are kinda pricey from Fixe. Living in Canada, I have to pay about 35% more just for the shipping and then the duty at the border. I am looking at about 30-40$ per draw.
They are basically SS quick link, 3 links of chain and then a steel biner. I have been looking in Marine Stores but no one can give me load strengths or quality assurance.
Is everybody sucking up the cost of these draws or are they using something else. I have seen them used in Rumney and I know they are used in many area's.
Note: I am an experienced developer with over 10 years climbing, 5 years developing and at least 30 routes bolted but I have lost count.


rocknice2


Sep 11, 2011, 4:56 PM
Post #2 of 15 (3324 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2006
Posts: 1204

Re: [kindasleepy] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I use these as a pair = cheapest $$ anchor I know
Order them from MEC. No duties
http://www.mec.ca/...38-rappel-hanger.jsp

No chain at all. I place them staggered
Place 1 above the other but just slightly to the side, so when the upper ring is on say the left side of the hanger and the bottom is on the right side. The rings line up.
The reason for this is that I find when they are placed horizontally, they twist the rope as it's being pull through.

Some argue that it doesn't divide the load between the 2 hangers. This is very true.
I say, 1 is plenty strong enough to rap off of and you have a 2nd for backup. As we all know shock load is a myth.
Added bonus is as the ring wears you only need to replace 1 not both.

Try it out on one of your routes I'm sure you'll get to like this setup.


(This post was edited by rocknice2 on Sep 11, 2011, 4:59 PM)


rockforlife


Sep 11, 2011, 9:39 PM
Post #3 of 15 (3261 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 14, 2002
Posts: 563

Re: [rocknice2] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rocknice2 wrote:
I use these as a pair = cheapest $$ anchor I know
Order them from MEC. No duties
http://www.mec.ca/...38-rappel-hanger.jsp

No chain at all. I place them staggered
Place 1 above the other but just slightly to the side, so when the upper ring is on say the left side of the hanger and the bottom is on the right side. The rings line up.
The reason for this is that I find when they are placed horizontally, they twist the rope as it's being pull through.

Some argue that it doesn't divide the load between the 2 hangers. This is very true.
I say, 1 is plenty strong enough to rap off of and you have a 2nd for backup. As we all know shock load is a myth.
Added bonus is as the ring wears you only need to replace 1 not both.

Try it out on one of your routes I'm sure you'll get to like this setup.


hmmm....Really...


surfstar


Sep 11, 2011, 10:11 PM
Post #4 of 15 (3252 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 30, 2011
Posts: 206

Re: [kindasleepy] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

These are popular in some of the places I climb and they're very convenient, last a while and replace easily:



http://www.maximuspress.com/...tail.php?prod=fmp014


JimTitt


Sep 11, 2011, 11:27 PM
Post #5 of 15 (3241 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 7, 2008
Posts: 980

Re: [rockforlife] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

By definition if the top anchor failed the impact force on the lower anchor wil be extremely low since the fall is a matter of inches and the rope out is as a minimum the full height of the climb. Thus the fall factor is minimal.
The way described is the prefered method and the one we recommend to our customers.

Jim


tolman_paul


Sep 12, 2011, 2:22 PM
Post #6 of 15 (3142 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 22, 2005
Posts: 385

Re: [kindasleepy] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you're going to be installing many rap stations and want to keep your costs down, go to a hardware store and cut 3/8" chain to 1' lengths with an even number of links. Set a 1/2" X 5 1/2" wedge anchor with double washers and tighen the bolt directly to the chain. Beefy, reasonably inexpensive if you get your bolts in bulk, and the chain is easily replaced when it gets worn.


jakedatc


Sep 12, 2011, 2:54 PM
Post #7 of 15 (3125 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054

Re: [tolman_paul] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

tolman_paul wrote:
If you're going to be installing many rap stations and want to keep your costs down, go to a hardware store and cut 3/8" chain to 1' lengths with an even number of links. Set a 1/2" X 5 1/2" wedge anchor with double washers and tighen the bolt directly to the chain. Beefy, reasonably inexpensive if you get your bolts in bulk, and the chain is easily replaced when it gets worn.

small link chain is such a pain in the ass. And not using real bolts is a disservice to anyone down the line who then has to replace the whole thing instead of just the links. threading 3/8ths is a pain and can twist the rope if you don't line it up right.

Normal bolts + hangers (or glue ins) 2 beefy 1/2" links and you're good to go. easy to clean, straight rope line, really hard to wear out, can get links in bulk pretty cheap.


granite_grrl


Sep 12, 2011, 3:29 PM
Post #8 of 15 (3110 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14812

Re: [surfstar] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

surfstar wrote:
These are popular in some of the places I climb and they're very convenient, last a while and replace easily:

[image]http://www.fishproducts.com/pics/loweroff.jpeg[/image]

http://www.maximuspress.com/...tail.php?prod=fmp014
That's one expensive mussy hook!

To the OP, we normally use Fixe rap rings from MEC like the ones posted earlier in this thread. Mussy hooks are super nice to have on popular routes, but I don't know a good source for them in Canada.


6pacfershur


Sep 12, 2011, 5:27 PM
Post #9 of 15 (3082 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 22, 2010
Posts: 217

Re: [rocknice2] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rocknice2 wrote:
I use these as a pair = cheapest $$ anchor I know
Order them from MEC. No duties
http://www.mec.ca/...38-rappel-hanger.jsp
In reply to:
everyone please note; they are called "rappel hangers", not "lowering hangers" : thanx for the link R&I


jakedatc


Sep 12, 2011, 5:40 PM
Post #10 of 15 (3074 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054

Re: [6pacfershur] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

6pacfershur wrote:
rocknice2 wrote:
I use these as a pair = cheapest $$ anchor I know
Order them from MEC. No duties
http://www.mec.ca/...38-rappel-hanger.jsp
everyone please note; they are called "rappel hangers", not "lowering hangers" : thanx for the link R&I


Please note, It's the Sport Forum.

cheezetitting gumbie


(This post was edited by jakedatc on Sep 12, 2011, 5:42 PM)


jt512


Sep 12, 2011, 8:46 PM
Post #11 of 15 (3011 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [jakedatc] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

jakedatc wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
rocknice2 wrote:
I use these as a pair = cheapest $$ anchor I know
Order them from MEC. No duties
http://www.mec.ca/...38-rappel-hanger.jsp
everyone please note; they are called "rappel hangers", not "lowering hangers" : thanx for the link R&I


Please note, It's the Sport Forum.

cheezetitting gumbie

Five stars for the phrase "cheezetitting gumbie."


acorneau


Sep 13, 2011, 6:00 AM
Post #12 of 15 (2962 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Re: [kindasleepy] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I still have 12 SS Maillon Rapide 9mm delta quicklinks that I need to get rid of. All you would need to add is the hangers and bolts.

Deltas are the same as the ones on the top row.



They're nice because the delta is large enough to have a couple of biners on there and still have plenty of room to stuff a bight of rope through. If/when they get worn out you can swap them out as needed.

Let me know via PM if you're interested.


kindasleepy


Sep 14, 2011, 12:20 PM
Post #13 of 15 (2893 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 18, 2003
Posts: 51

Re: [acorneau] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks for all the feedback. I currently use Fixe Rap Anchors
in pairs at the top of my routes. I expect heavy travel and want fixed biners at the top so people could just lower off. I am not interested in various ways of placing rap achors.

What do you use for fixed binerss?
Attachments: P4050123.jpg (129 KB)


jakedatc


Sep 14, 2011, 1:27 PM
Post #14 of 15 (2859 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054

Re: [kindasleepy] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

kindasleepy wrote:
Thanks for all the feedback. I currently use Fixe Rap Anchors
in pairs at the top of my routes. I expect heavy travel and want fixed biners at the top so people could just lower off. I am not interested in various ways of placing rap achors.

What do you use for fixed binerss?

If you have ring anchors then why not just leave them like that. Threading takes like 1min max and will prevent people from TRing on your stuff.(usually)


rocknice2


Sep 14, 2011, 4:18 PM
Post #15 of 15 (2811 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2006
Posts: 1204

Re: [kindasleepy] Sport Route Top Anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have used the Fixe SS biners but this gets $$ fast.
I tried on sale alum. biners first. I wired them to the chain so it doesnt get stolen too easily but these were more expensive than steel or ss biners.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Sport Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook