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Hosted


Sep 15, 2011, 6:32 PM
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Another Shoe Fit Question
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I have searched a lot, but am giving up on shoe fit due to all of the different info I'm finding. I know this is the worst possible question to ask, but I am brand new to the sport and do not have a place to try climbing shoes on within 100 miles. I would make the drive to try them on but I'm working 80 hour weeks right now and cannot get the time. I am looking at the Evolv Evos. I emailed Evolv and they told me to go with my street shoe size which I did in 11. I got them and they feel to loose. My ties are very slightly bent and I can wiggle my toes. Unfortunately the place I bought them doesn't have a 10 or 10.5 so I'm going to have to start over. Am I on the right track on trying a smaller size? Thanks in advance.


tolman_paul


Sep 15, 2011, 6:41 PM
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Re: [Hosted] Another Shoe Fit Question [In reply to]
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If they feel loose and you can wiggle your toes, I'm going with they are too big. Unfortunately shoe manufacturer sizing is all over the map. It used to be you would go down a size or two from you street shoe size. Climbing shoes should be fit snug, but not painful. I got a pair of Evo's from sierra trading post in my street shoe size, 47, and they were so painfully tight I couldn't stand up in them, and my toes were numb after 80 feet of easy climbing. Yet my old, yeah ancient sportivas are size 46 and I can climb that 4 pitch route before having to pull them off.

Send em back and go for a smaller size in that model.


crashkickave


Sep 15, 2011, 6:45 PM
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Re: [tolman_paul] Another Shoe Fit Question [In reply to]
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I'm looking to buy my first equipment soon and wondering about brand suggestions for harnesses and shoes?


Hosted


Sep 15, 2011, 6:53 PM
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Re: [crashkickave] Another Shoe Fit Question [In reply to]
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If you have a store locally that carries climbing equipment go there and try everything on and buy what fits YOU the best. When I was in Colorado early this year I tried probably 6 different shoes on and it was amazing how different each pair was. That's what I would do if I had the time. Unfortunately northern Indiana is not the place to live for climbing.


Diddii


Sep 16, 2011, 3:33 AM
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Re: [Hosted] Another Shoe Fit Question [In reply to]
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as a guideline: they should be uncomfortable but you shouldn't be in pain while wearing them. Getting blisters from your shoes is a sign of too large size. Hope that helps :)


sp115


Sep 16, 2011, 5:05 AM
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Re: [Hosted] Another Shoe Fit Question [In reply to]
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Hosted wrote:
I have searched a lot, but am giving up on shoe fit due to all of the different info I'm finding. I know this is the worst possible question to ask, but I am brand new to the sport and do not have a place to try climbing shoes on within 100 miles. I would make the drive to try them on but I'm working 80 hour weeks right now and cannot get the time. I am looking at the Evolv Evos. I emailed Evolv and they told me to go with my street shoe size which I did in 11. I got them and they feel to loose. My ties are very slightly bent and I can wiggle my toes. Unfortunately the place I bought them doesn't have a 10 or 10.5 so I'm going to have to start over. Am I on the right track on trying a smaller size? Thanks in advance.

You're giving up after trying one pair of shoes on? This sport is about suffering, you need to readjust your expectations...

But anyway, this gets asked a lot, and it always comes back to a one simple task: find something that fits your foot. Since you're new, you'll need to do some research/guess at a few things: leather vs synthectic, asymetry, toebox shape, performance, lace vs velcro, etc.

The best method is to go to a store and try everything on, but since it's not an option for you right now, the second best thing is to break out the credit card and order about 6 or 10 pairs of shoes from someplace like Zappos that has free shipping both ways. This way you can try on a whole bunch of shoes and return everything that you don't want or like. Just remember, you really need to keep each shoe on for awhile to get a feel them.

And for the record, no matter how well you try to nail the first pair, you'll most likely miss on something. Don't worry, it's almost a rite of passage.

http://www.zappos.com/...centSalesStyle/desc/


MXRider217


Sep 16, 2011, 5:40 AM
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Re: [crashkickave] Another Shoe Fit Question [In reply to]
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crashkickave wrote:
I'm looking to buy my first equipment soon and wondering about brand suggestions for harnesses and shoes?

This is where personal preference comes in. I personally and biased towards Black Diamond, as it fit snugly and feels good on for hours. But everyone is different. Ask a friend to try their harness' on and see if if feels comfortable in all positions of climbing. Then try to make a decision. I know where I buy my gear, they have test wall to try out the gear you are prospecting on out. I tried my harness and a few others before I bought. Shoes on the other hand are a bit of a pain. Read the above posts as to why, and make sure you try them on if you can. I am a size US 11, and wound up buying size 11.5 Evolvs, as the 11 was just way to tight to stand more than a few minutes in. All gear is personal preference, aside from hardwear that is.


Hosted


Sep 17, 2011, 6:56 AM
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Re: [sp115] Another Shoe Fit Question [In reply to]
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sp115, sorry I wasn't clear on my post. When I said I was giving up I simply meant on trying to find info searching the forum and was breaking down and posting a shoe question. Thanks for the info though.


shockabuku


Sep 17, 2011, 12:09 PM
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Re: [Hosted] Another Shoe Fit Question [In reply to]
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I think Backcountry.com will pay shipping until you fit your shoes. Check, but one of those companies does.


Greggle


Sep 18, 2011, 1:03 AM
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Re: [sp115] Another Shoe Fit Question [In reply to]
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sp115 wrote:
And for the record, no matter how well you try to nail the first pair, you'll most likely miss on something. Don't worry, it's almost a rite of passage.

This.

My first pair? Too big. My second pair? Too small. My current pair? 'Jury's still out on that, but this pair is the best so far.

And +1 to Backcountry or Rock/Creek. Backcountry has great sales. Rock/Creek includes a bag of chalk and, as part of one of my purchases, two free issues of Rock and Ice. Bu-zing...


jjones16


Sep 20, 2011, 7:32 PM
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Re: [Hosted] Another Shoe Fit Question [In reply to]
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campsaver.com

I just used that site to order shoes. I got them, they were too big. Campsaver paid the shipping to return them and exchanged them for a smaller size, then paid for the shipping to send the new ones to me. Can't beat it. Good luck.


surfstar


Sep 20, 2011, 11:02 PM
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don't be a douche [In reply to]
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don't be a douche and try one pair at a time if you have a gut feeling they won't fit. Order two or more models in various sizes, keep the pair that fit best, mail the rest back. Don't abuse the return policy and have them ship 2+ different times.


unless your dad works for UPS or you have stock in them.


(This post was edited by surfstar on Sep 20, 2011, 11:02 PM)


siriantrevor


Oct 2, 2011, 2:26 PM
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Re: [Hosted] Another Shoe Fit Question [In reply to]
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Yes, you are on the right track. Ideally, you want to eliminate dead space in your shoes-- meaning your toes should def be curled and no wriggling. But it's really what you feel comfortable climbing in.


cmagee1


Oct 2, 2011, 2:59 PM
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Re: [siriantrevor] Another Shoe Fit Question [In reply to]
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do you have any climbing gyms near you? you could rent shoes there and at least get a feel for what fits.


Hosted


Oct 2, 2011, 7:09 PM
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Re: [cmagee1] Another Shoe Fit Question [In reply to]
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I ended up returning the 11's and got 10.5's from another place. I got them and still had some dead space so I got some 10's. The 10's are very tight but are getting better each time I use them. If Evolv had 10.25's they would be perfect. I'm still getting used to being on the tips of my toes so I'm just taking it slow and having fun. Thanks for everyones help!


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