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CurlyFries


Sep 16, 2011, 6:56 AM
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tower_climber


Sep 16, 2011, 9:41 AM
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Re: [CurlyFries] Another Evaluate Anchor Thread [In reply to]
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I'm sure you'll get much more experienced people chiming in here soon, but just a few observations up front:

IMO, Two slings for the stretch at the master point is excessive if there isn't a danger of the sling getting cut. If you tie limiter knots on both sides of the sliding x, you create redundancy and limited extension if the sling gets cut near the bolt or the bolt blows.

Angles on both anchors are far too large, especially the "bolts" anchor setup.

The girth hitch connection between the black and yellow webbing is less than ideal. A carabiner at each connection would be a better choice.


Rudmin


Sep 16, 2011, 9:46 AM
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excessive is the word that comes to mind


TarHeelEMT


Sep 16, 2011, 10:36 AM
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Re: [CurlyFries] Another Evaluate Anchor Thread [In reply to]
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Lose the girth hitch.

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...two-slings-together/


bearbreeder


Sep 16, 2011, 10:46 AM
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not "ideal" but you should live

and if i were to TR on it for some reason and find it at the top, i wouldnt freak out

im going to wait for the 10+ pages of "if it isnt done my way gumby noob, yr gonna die and yr dawg tooo"

u know its gonna happen Tongue


aprice00


Sep 16, 2011, 11:24 AM
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Re: [CurlyFries] Another Evaluate Anchor Thread [In reply to]
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"#2 bolts with one suspect" - is the stiched part of the sling in the knot?

I dont know if that is dangerous but i would move it out of the knot.


shockabuku


Sep 16, 2011, 11:28 AM
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Re: [tower_climber] Another Evaluate Anchor Thread [In reply to]
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tower_climber wrote:
Angles on both anchors are far too large, especially the "bolts" anchor setup.

Indeed, I'd slide one of those "bolts" closer to the other one!


MS1


Sep 16, 2011, 11:29 AM
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Re: [CurlyFries] Another Evaluate Anchor Thread [In reply to]
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CurlyFries wrote:
Please evaluate!

Used previous whitewater rescue anchor knowledge combined with reading a book on climbing anchors. Did a bit of practise and took some pictures.

How do these look? Any feedback would be much appreciated! Please dont talk about webbing vs static cord, i love webbing and am sticking with it for now!

Dave

1) on bolts
[IMG]http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh131/daveebel92/299967_10150319064774661_503889660_7681188_687517636_n.jpg[/IMG]

2) bolts with one suspect
[IMG]http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh131/daveebel92/298463_10150319064654661_503889660_7681187_210597583_n.jpg[/IMG]

3) bomber trees
[IMG]http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh131/daveebel92/319929_10150319064139661_503889660_7681180_243592696_n.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh131/daveebel92/302669_10150319064424661_503889660_7681184_443073505_n.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh131/daveebel92/310527_10150319064569661_503889660_7681185_1663652178_n.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh131/daveebel92/317153_10150319064294661_503889660_7681182_114068945_n.jpg[/IMG]

Your bolt anchor is overly complicated. I'd suggest using either an equallette configuration (if you are using one long length of webbing), or else just using the webbing to set-up two quickdraws on each bolt. Either way, make sure to set up your carabiners opposite-and-opposed at your masterpoint.

So either like this:



Or this:




shockabuku


Sep 16, 2011, 11:45 AM
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Re: [CurlyFries] Another Evaluate Anchor Thread [In reply to]
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CurlyFries wrote:


I believe this knot is called a strop bend, different than a girth hitch, and also slightly stronger. Here's a link to the BD testing of it: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...two-slings-together/


Rmsyll2


Sep 17, 2011, 3:06 PM
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Re: [CurlyFries] Another Evaluate Anchor Thread [In reply to]
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Strop bend: http://www.ehow.com/video_4416471_tie-strop-bend.html
A strop bend is a Girth Hitch that is adjusted to be symmetrically loaded, so that both sides curve around the same. It is curves that preserve the strength of the material, with staying flat also preserving the strength of wide materials.

Folding over sewn slings making two end loops which are then in separate carabiners is new to me. It is complicated to do and makes a wad of webbing at the carabiners which are rubbing the webbing. If it was reversed, putting the two loop ends in the anchor carabiner and folding the middle at both belay carabiners, it would be the same strength and a lot neater.

Agree re never having the sewn section inside a knot, and also keeping it out of the way generally.

Per using equalette instead, possibly not possible with materials shown? But if that becomes the main material always supplied, not a problem.

.


marc801


Sep 17, 2011, 3:49 PM
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Re: [CurlyFries] Another Evaluate Anchor Thread [In reply to]
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CurlyFries wrote:
Please evaluate!

Used previous whitewater rescue anchor knowledge combined with reading a book on climbing anchors. Did a bit of practise and took some pictures.
Please dear god, how many of these threads do we really need? If you're a beginner newbie, for fuck's sake will you please search for and read all the similar threads first? Your anchors are gonna look like a bunch of others, and if you're a newbie, they're going to be overly complicated and needlessly clusterfucked, just like all the others in all the other threads.


billcoe_


Sep 17, 2011, 7:10 PM
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Re: [marc801] Another Evaluate Anchor Thread [In reply to]
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Hey Marc, I thought we we not suppose to be assholes on this forum to the new guys? What I usually do is not post to the threads that have yanked my crank. But whatever.

In my mind, the big issue is that the powerpoint biners, when loaded, will be pinching your webbing. Put your webbing through both biners so that doesn't occur. Seriously.

Have fun!


(This post was edited by billcoe_ on Sep 17, 2011, 7:12 PM)


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Sep 18, 2011, 4:59 PM
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Re: [CurlyFries] Another Evaluate Anchor Thread [In reply to]
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/...d;page=unread#unread

Digest the above quoted thread and then comment about your own anchor. You could not do any better anywhere on the net than take to heart the commentary by Jim Titt and rgold in that thread. I highly recommend that thread for anyone wanting to experiment with any type of lette.


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