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TheNags
Sep 19, 2011, 1:31 AM
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Registered: Jun 18, 2011
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I finally did my first trad climb (sahara terror, tahquitz) and I am now officially addicted. I don't know if I can go back to clipping bolts, after the feeling of freedom that comes with trad. The worst thing now is that I need to build a rack (I only have nuts, plus a double BD #7 someone left in a crack). This is gonna hurt my wallet lol. if anyone is ever climbing in socal and needs someone to second, or climb trad with, PLEASE CALL ME!!! on a side note, trad climbing is like crack, I may need an intervention...
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rtwilli4
Sep 19, 2011, 2:14 AM
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Congrats on your first climb on gear! It is very addicting for sure.
I can sell you some cams for descent prices if you're interested. All are in good to great shape and are very common sizes.
Ryan.Tyler.Williams@gmail.com
(This post was edited by rtwilli4 on Sep 19, 2011, 2:16 AM)
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potreroed
Sep 19, 2011, 2:25 AM
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Funny--after many years as a trad climber I very much appreciate the freedom that clipping bolts gives you: freedom from carrying all that dang gear, placing all that dang gear, removing all that dang gear, re-racking all that dang gear, building anchors etc, etc
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TheNags
Sep 19, 2011, 2:28 AM
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I never thought of that, and I guess a bit of it is shiny ball syndrome. however, that being said, there is something, I can't quite put my finger on it, that is so amazing about these multi-pitch climbs that appeal to me. so much more than the shorter sport climbs. we will have to wait and see if the shine wears off.
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bearbreeder
Sep 19, 2011, 3:36 AM
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wait till you do 10+ pitch multipitch trad ...
thats like heroin compared to the ganja you did
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TheNags
Sep 19, 2011, 3:55 AM
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oh dear... it gets worse... I think I'm in love...
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rtwilli4
Sep 19, 2011, 6:05 AM
Post #7 of 18
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potreroed wrote: Funny-- after many years as a trad climber I very much appreciate the freedom that clipping bolts gives you: freedom from carrying all that dang gear, placing all that dang gear, removing all that dang gear, re-racking all that dang gear, building anchors etc, etc
That's the key though... you've climbed a ton, you've done a lot, you've gotten some of it out of your system! Until you've been up on a big trad climb you always wonder what it's like. Maybe after a lifetime of it you start to appreciate the simplicity of bolted routes but anyone that truly loves the mountains will be drawn to the big traditional lines our continent offers, just as you were 
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guangzhou
Sep 19, 2011, 11:55 AM
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Sport or trad, it's all fun to me. I have to admit, they is a strange feeling when you're standing at the base of a 10 pitch routed with only 15 to 20 Quickdraws.
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rtwilli4
Sep 19, 2011, 3:30 PM
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guangzhou wrote: Sport or trad, it's all fun to me. I have to admit, they is a strange feeling when you're standing at the base of a 10 pitch routed with only 15 to 20 Quickdraws.
Oh don't get me wrong I love and appreciate all types of climbing. I try to live where I want to live based on a lot of things not just climbing, and then I get psyched on whatever kind of climbing is around. Right now that means trad climbing, but in the past and probably in the future that means sport climbing.
I do go out of my way to trad climb when I'm on road trips though... but that will likely change in the future as well. I go through phases. Right now I like crack climbing and multi-pitch routes. Next year I'll probably end up bouldering and sport climbing a lot!
LOVE IT ALL!
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ceebo
Sep 19, 2011, 4:26 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote: potreroed wrote: Funny-- after many years as a trad climber I very much appreciate the freedom that clipping bolts gives you: freedom from carrying all that dang gear, placing all that dang gear, removing all that dang gear, re-racking all that dang gear, building anchors etc, etc Until you've been up on a big trad climb you always wonder what it's like. Maybe after a lifetime of it you start to appreciate the simplicity of bolted routes but anyone that truly loves the mountains will be drawn to the big traditional lines our continent offers, just as you were
But he is right ;p. If every crag i went to was bolted (and none are).. why would i waste my time placing gear?.. it takes out the fun of just climbing.
It slows your sends down by at least half. I climb to climb ;p not make anchors.
OP, not trying to bring you down, glad you enjoyed it. Have fun.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Sep 19, 2011, 4:29 PM)
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jt512
Sep 19, 2011, 9:04 PM
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ceebo wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: potreroed wrote: Funny-- after many years as a trad climber I very much appreciate the freedom that clipping bolts gives you: freedom from carrying all that dang gear, placing all that dang gear, removing all that dang gear, re-racking all that dang gear, building anchors etc, etc Until you've been up on a big trad climb you always wonder what it's like. Maybe after a lifetime of it you start to appreciate the simplicity of bolted routes but anyone that truly loves the mountains will be drawn to the big traditional lines our continent offers, just as you were But he is right ;p. If every crag i went to was bolted (and none are).. why would i waste my time placing gear?.. it takes out the fun of just climbing. It slows your sends down by at least half. I climb to climb ;p not make anchors. OP, not trying to bring you down, glad you enjoyed it. Have fun.
I never thought it would happen, but I agree with Ceebo.
Jay
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Kartessa
Sep 19, 2011, 9:14 PM
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jt512 wrote: ceebo wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: potreroed wrote: Funny-- after many years as a trad climber I very much appreciate the freedom that clipping bolts gives you: freedom from carrying all that dang gear, placing all that dang gear, removing all that dang gear, re-racking all that dang gear, building anchors etc, etc Until you've been up on a big trad climb you always wonder what it's like. Maybe after a lifetime of it you start to appreciate the simplicity of bolted routes but anyone that truly loves the mountains will be drawn to the big traditional lines our continent offers, just as you were But he is right ;p. If every crag i went to was bolted (and none are).. why would i waste my time placing gear?.. it takes out the fun of just climbing. It slows your sends down by at least half. I climb to climb ;p not make anchors. OP, not trying to bring you down, glad you enjoyed it. Have fun. I never thought it would happen, but I agree with Ceebo. Jay
Say it isnt so Jay! Say it isn't so!
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ceebo
Sep 19, 2011, 11:01 PM
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jt512 wrote: ceebo wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: potreroed wrote: Funny-- after many years as a trad climber I very much appreciate the freedom that clipping bolts gives you: freedom from carrying all that dang gear, placing all that dang gear, removing all that dang gear, re-racking all that dang gear, building anchors etc, etc Until you've been up on a big trad climb you always wonder what it's like. Maybe after a lifetime of it you start to appreciate the simplicity of bolted routes but anyone that truly loves the mountains will be drawn to the big traditional lines our continent offers, just as you were But he is right ;p. If every crag i went to was bolted (and none are).. why would i waste my time placing gear?.. it takes out the fun of just climbing. It slows your sends down by at least half. I climb to climb ;p not make anchors. OP, not trying to bring you down, glad you enjoyed it. Have fun. I never thought it would happen, but I agree with Ceebo. Jay
This is some kind of wave length alignment, only to take place every 30.000 years or so.
Or has jay been on weed too?. Have you?.
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redonkulus
Sep 19, 2011, 11:15 PM
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ceebo wrote: jt512 wrote: ceebo wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: potreroed wrote: Funny-- after many years as a trad climber I very much appreciate the freedom that clipping bolts gives you: freedom from carrying all that dang gear, placing all that dang gear, removing all that dang gear, re-racking all that dang gear, building anchors etc, etc Until you've been up on a big trad climb you always wonder what it's like. Maybe after a lifetime of it you start to appreciate the simplicity of bolted routes but anyone that truly loves the mountains will be drawn to the big traditional lines our continent offers, just as you were But he is right ;p. If every crag i went to was bolted (and none are).. why would i waste my time placing gear?.. it takes out the fun of just climbing. It slows your sends down by at least half. I climb to climb ;p not make anchors. OP, not trying to bring you down, glad you enjoyed it. Have fun. I never thought it would happen, but I agree with Ceebo. Jay This is some kind of wave length alignment, only to take place every 30.000 years or so. Or has jay been on weed too?. Have you?.
Shouldn't you be calling him an asslicker or something?
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ceebo
Sep 19, 2011, 11:19 PM
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redonkulus wrote: ceebo wrote: jt512 wrote: ceebo wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: potreroed wrote: Funny-- after many years as a trad climber I very much appreciate the freedom that clipping bolts gives you: freedom from carrying all that dang gear, placing all that dang gear, removing all that dang gear, re-racking all that dang gear, building anchors etc, etc Until you've been up on a big trad climb you always wonder what it's like. Maybe after a lifetime of it you start to appreciate the simplicity of bolted routes but anyone that truly loves the mountains will be drawn to the big traditional lines our continent offers, just as you were But he is right ;p. If every crag i went to was bolted (and none are).. why would i waste my time placing gear?.. it takes out the fun of just climbing. It slows your sends down by at least half. I climb to climb ;p not make anchors. OP, not trying to bring you down, glad you enjoyed it. Have fun. I never thought it would happen, but I agree with Ceebo. Jay This is some kind of wave length alignment, only to take place every 30.000 years or so. Or has jay been on weed too?. Have you?. Shouldn't you be calling him an asslicker or something?
You clearly need a hug. Get over it.
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redonkulus
Sep 19, 2011, 11:45 PM
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ceebo wrote: redonkulus wrote: ceebo wrote: jt512 wrote: ceebo wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: potreroed wrote: Funny-- after many years as a trad climber I very much appreciate the freedom that clipping bolts gives you: freedom from carrying all that dang gear, placing all that dang gear, removing all that dang gear, re-racking all that dang gear, building anchors etc, etc Until you've been up on a big trad climb you always wonder what it's like. Maybe after a lifetime of it you start to appreciate the simplicity of bolted routes but anyone that truly loves the mountains will be drawn to the big traditional lines our continent offers, just as you were But he is right ;p. If every crag i went to was bolted (and none are).. why would i waste my time placing gear?.. it takes out the fun of just climbing. It slows your sends down by at least half. I climb to climb ;p not make anchors. OP, not trying to bring you down, glad you enjoyed it. Have fun. I never thought it would happen, but I agree with Ceebo. Jay This is some kind of wave length alignment, only to take place every 30.000 years or so. Or has jay been on weed too?. Have you?. Shouldn't you be calling him an asslicker or something? You clearly need a hug. Get over it.
Don't get me wrong, I'd never turn down a hug
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hugepedro
Sep 20, 2011, 12:15 AM
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rtwilli4 wrote: potreroed wrote: Funny-- after many years as a trad climber I very much appreciate the freedom that clipping bolts gives you: freedom from carrying all that dang gear, placing all that dang gear, removing all that dang gear, re-racking all that dang gear, building anchors etc, etc That's the key though... you've climbed a ton, you've done a lot, you've gotten some of it out of your system! Until you've been up on a big trad climb you always wonder what it's like. Maybe after a lifetime of it you start to appreciate the simplicity of bolted routes but anyone that truly loves the mountains will be drawn to the big traditional lines our continent offers, just as you were
Yeah, it's like how one gains a greater appreciation for strippers after being married quite a few years.
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jt512
Sep 20, 2011, 1:37 AM
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Kartessa wrote: jt512 wrote: ceebo wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: potreroed wrote: Funny-- after many years as a trad climber I very much appreciate the freedom that clipping bolts gives you: freedom from carrying all that dang gear, placing all that dang gear, removing all that dang gear, re-racking all that dang gear, building anchors etc, etc Until you've been up on a big trad climb you always wonder what it's like. Maybe after a lifetime of it you start to appreciate the simplicity of bolted routes but anyone that truly loves the mountains will be drawn to the big traditional lines our continent offers, just as you were But he is right ;p. If every crag i went to was bolted (and none are).. why would i waste my time placing gear?.. it takes out the fun of just climbing. It slows your sends down by at least half. I climb to climb ;p not make anchors. OP, not trying to bring you down, glad you enjoyed it. Have fun. I never thought it would happen, but I agree with Ceebo. Jay Say it isnt so Jay! Say it isn't so!
What can I say? He said trad sucks.
Jay
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