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Marylandclimber


Sep 18, 2011, 11:08 AM
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Bolts....
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I wan't to take on sport climbing but i have no bolted routes nbear my house. I plan on setting the bolts myself. I need to know if somebody sells a combo of the hanger with the bolt INCLUDED.


superchuffer


Sep 18, 2011, 11:29 AM
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Re: [Marylandclimber] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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that's because you don't have any climbable rock near your house. go bolting with somebody that knows what they are doing or you are going to hurt yourself and some else and/or jeopardize access.


billcoe_


Sep 18, 2011, 12:21 PM
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Re: [Marylandclimber] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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Marylandclimber wrote:
I wan't to take on sport climbing but i have no bolted routes nbear my house. I plan on setting the bolts myself. I need to know if somebody sells a combo of the hanger with the bolt INCLUDED.

Look up "rock gym" in google. Then go there and clip away to your hearts content, they already stuffed the place full of bolts you can clip! Woot!


rtwilli4


Sep 18, 2011, 1:03 PM
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Re: [Marylandclimber] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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Seems to me like you never figured how to get off that pinnacle w/o using a drill. That is no excuse to go and grid bolt the crappy MD boulders that you are likely planning to ruin.

Get a clue.


Marylandclimber


Sep 18, 2011, 3:31 PM
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Re: [rtwilli4] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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Omg your so mean i'm on this site trying to learmn and save my life. Your obviously here to just yell at people that just started climbing.


rtwilli4


Sep 18, 2011, 3:36 PM
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Re: [Marylandclimber] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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I understand that you want to learn but you need to do a bit of the work yourself. A simple search of this site and/or Google would answer all of the questions I've seen you ask. Better yet, you should be taking a class or at least searching for a real person that can help introduce you to rock climbing.

Coming on here and asking where to get bolts is hardly saving you life. If you are that concerned with your safety then maybe you should get out and build up a few years of experience before thinking about bolting sport routes.

At the very least, you could write properly. Just because it is the internet does not mean you don't have to use proper grammar and spelling.


guangzhou


Sep 18, 2011, 6:26 PM
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Re: [rtwilli4] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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I learn so much about people on the internet. When I was a school teacher, I always warned my students to be careful what hey write because college and future employers could find it.

OP: I don't think you're experienced enough to bolt, but yes, you can buy bolts in sets f you want. Google would help you find a source.

I recommend you find some local local climbers and get some advice. Sometimes, especially in your part of the country, things were climbed long before you arrived with no bolts.

Cheers
Eman


DougMartin


Sep 18, 2011, 6:56 PM
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Re: [Marylandclimber] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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Save your money and your time. If you go and put bolts on a route did not put up, you are just going to get them and maybe something else cut off! Most first assenters don't take kindly to others messing with their routes!


rtwilli4


Sep 18, 2011, 6:56 PM
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Re: [guangzhou] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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Touche Eman. Thanks for the call out... I needed it.

OP, sorry for the douchebaggery. Frustrating things going on in my life this week and using strangers on the internet as punching bags is immature. Apologies. Eman's given you the best answer you'll get.


jeepnphreak


Sep 19, 2011, 8:40 AM
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Re: [Marylandclimber] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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Well, you say bolts... I say wedge, double wedge, glue in, or Triplex 3-piece? What kind of rock are you going to be bolting? are you going to be using 3/8, 1/2 inch and do you know the length the bolts should be for the rock you are bolting?

Before you jump out and start bolting and thinking that you are saving you life. Here is a video of some climbers that are tearing down a route that was bolted using the wrong gear after a climber fell and the bolt s/he was on fail and they died.
make sure yo have speakers so you can hear their commentary

http://www.youtube.com/...C7C6060&index=12


jae8908


Sep 19, 2011, 11:52 AM
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jeepnphreak wrote:
Well, you say bolts... I say wedge, double wedge, glue in, or Triplex 3-piece? What kind of rock are you going to be bolting? are you going to be using 3/8, 1/2 inch and do you know the length the bolts should be for the rock you are bolting?

Before you jump out and start bolting and thinking that you are saving you life. Here is a video of some climbers that are tearing down a route that was bolted using the wrong gear after a climber fell and the bolt s/he was on fail and they died.
make sure yo have speakers so you can hear their commentary

http://www.youtube.com/...C7C6060&index=12
The guys in this video are anchoring off of the belay loop on their harness. Why?


sbaclimber


Sep 19, 2011, 12:15 PM
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Re: [jae8908] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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jae8908 wrote:
jeepnphreak wrote:
Well, you say bolts... I say wedge, double wedge, glue in, or Triplex 3-piece? What kind of rock are you going to be bolting? are you going to be using 3/8, 1/2 inch and do you know the length the bolts should be for the rock you are bolting?

Before you jump out and start bolting and thinking that you are saving you life. Here is a video of some climbers that are tearing down a route that was bolted using the wrong gear after a climber fell and the bolt s/he was on fail and they died.
make sure yo have speakers so you can hear their commentary

http://www.youtube.com/...C7C6060&index=12
The guys in this video are anchoring off of the belay loop on their harness. Why?
Why not?


jeepnphreak


Sep 19, 2011, 12:40 PM
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Re: [jae8908] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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"jae8908 wrote:
The guys in this video are anchoring off of the belay loop on their harness. Why?

Are you implying that belay loops are not ment to hold body weight?


jae8908


Sep 19, 2011, 12:43 PM
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Re: [jeepnphreak] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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jeepnphreak wrote:
"jae8908 wrote:
The guys in this video are anchoring off of the belay loop on their harness. Why?

Are you implying that belay loops are not ment to hold body weight?

No, I'm implying that the belay loop and carabiner are an extra variable to go wrong. I learned to eliminate as many variables as possible when my life is at risk. I tie into my harness unless top roping in a gym.


sbaclimber


Sep 19, 2011, 12:48 PM
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Re: [jae8908] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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jae8908 wrote:
I tie into my harness unless top roping in a gym.
At the risk of implying you are a hypocrite......what are the guys in the vid doing any differently!?


kennoyce


Sep 19, 2011, 12:51 PM
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Re: [jae8908] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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jae8908 wrote:
jeepnphreak wrote:
"jae8908 wrote:
The guys in this video are anchoring off of the belay loop on their harness. Why?

Are you implying that belay loops are not ment to hold body weight?

No, I'm implying that the belay loop and carabiner are an extra variable to go wrong. I learned to eliminate as many variables as possible when my life is at risk. I tie into my harness unless top roping in a gym.

Tying in and anchoring are two very different things. They are not tied into their belay loop, this would be bad, they are anchored with a biner into their belay loop, this is good.


hugepedro


Sep 19, 2011, 12:52 PM
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jae8908 wrote:
jeepnphreak wrote:
"jae8908 wrote:
The guys in this video are anchoring off of the belay loop on their harness. Why?

Are you implying that belay loops are not ment to hold body weight?

No, I'm implying that the belay loop and carabiner are an extra variable to go wrong. I learned to eliminate as many variables as possible when my life is at risk. I tie into my harness unless top roping in a gym.

They're not climbing. They're on ascenders.


jae8908


Sep 19, 2011, 12:53 PM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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sbaclimber wrote:
jae8908 wrote:
I tie into my harness unless top roping in a gym.
At the risk of implying you are a hypocrite......what are the guys in the vid doing any differently!?

1. They aren't in a gym.
2. They are suspending themselves with the belay loop while jerking on it trying to pull the bolts out.
3. Responding to you quoting me, when I top rope in a gym I clip my carabiner through both the leg straps and waist strap on my harness.


jae8908


Sep 19, 2011, 12:57 PM
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Re: [kennoyce] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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kennoyce wrote:
jae8908 wrote:
jeepnphreak wrote:
"jae8908 wrote:
The guys in this video are anchoring off of the belay loop on their harness. Why?

Are you implying that belay loops are not ment to hold body weight?

No, I'm implying that the belay loop and carabiner are an extra variable to go wrong. I learned to eliminate as many variables as possible when my life is at risk. I tie into my harness unless top roping in a gym.

Tying in and anchoring are two very different things. They are not tied into their belay loop, this would be bad, they are anchored with a biner into their belay loop, this is good.

So you're saying that it is safer to biner to a belay loop than to tie into the harness(not the belay loop)?


kennoyce


Sep 19, 2011, 1:03 PM
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Re: [jae8908] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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jae8908 wrote:
kennoyce wrote:
jae8908 wrote:
jeepnphreak wrote:
"jae8908 wrote:
The guys in this video are anchoring off of the belay loop on their harness. Why?

Are you implying that belay loops are not ment to hold body weight?

No, I'm implying that the belay loop and carabiner are an extra variable to go wrong. I learned to eliminate as many variables as possible when my life is at risk. I tie into my harness unless top roping in a gym.

Tying in and anchoring are two very different things. They are not tied into their belay loop, this would be bad, they are anchored with a biner into their belay loop, this is good.

So you're saying that it is safer to biner to a belay loop than to tie into the harness(not the belay loop)?

No, I'm saying that it is safer to biner to a belay loop than to biner to the tie in points. It is also safer to tie into the tie in points then to tie into the belay loop. A belay loop is for clipping biners to, the tie in points are for connecting soft goods such as a rope or slings.


hugepedro


Sep 19, 2011, 1:03 PM
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jae8908 wrote:
kennoyce wrote:
jae8908 wrote:
jeepnphreak wrote:
"jae8908 wrote:
The guys in this video are anchoring off of the belay loop on their harness. Why?

Are you implying that belay loops are not ment to hold body weight?

No, I'm implying that the belay loop and carabiner are an extra variable to go wrong. I learned to eliminate as many variables as possible when my life is at risk. I tie into my harness unless top roping in a gym.

Tying in and anchoring are two very different things. They are not tied into their belay loop, this would be bad, they are anchored with a biner into their belay loop, this is good.

So you're saying that it is safer to biner to a belay loop than to tie into the harness(not the belay loop)?

Dude, they aren't climbing, they are jugging, therefore they are not tied in. Do you tie in when you rappel?


kennoyce


Sep 19, 2011, 1:06 PM
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Re: [jae8908] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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jae8908 wrote:
sbaclimber wrote:
jae8908 wrote:
I tie into my harness unless top roping in a gym.
At the risk of implying you are a hypocrite......what are the guys in the vid doing any differently!?

1. They aren't in a gym.
2. They are suspending themselves with the belay loop while jerking on it trying to pull the bolts out.
3. Responding to you quoting me, when I top rope in a gym I clip my carabiner through both the leg straps and waist strap on my harness.


This is certainly less safe than clipping the biner to your belay loop because it loads the biner incorrectly.


jae8908


Sep 19, 2011, 1:06 PM
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Re: [hugepedro] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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Do you tie in when you rappel?
I rappel with a rescue 8 or an atc so no.
(edit) do you tie in when you rappel?
have you ever seen anyone tie in when they rappelled?


(This post was edited by jae8908 on Sep 19, 2011, 1:12 PM)


jae8908


Sep 19, 2011, 1:10 PM
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Re: [kennoyce] Bolts.... [In reply to]
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kennoyce wrote:
jae8908 wrote:
sbaclimber wrote:
jae8908 wrote:
I tie into my harness unless top roping in a gym.
At the risk of implying you are a hypocrite......what are the guys in the vid doing any differently!?

1. They aren't in a gym.
2. They are suspending themselves with the belay loop while jerking on it trying to pull the bolts out.
3. Responding to you quoting me, when I top rope in a gym I clip my carabiner through both the leg straps and waist strap on my harness.


This is certainly less safe than clipping the biner to your belay loop because it loads the biner incorrectly.
how is it loaded wrong if it is along the median plane instead of the frontal plane? I don't understand how this would even make a difference.


jeepnphreak


Sep 19, 2011, 1:12 PM
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jae8908 wrote:
jeepnphreak wrote:
"jae8908 wrote:
The guys in this video are anchoring off of the belay loop on their harness. Why?

Are you implying that belay loops are not ment to hold body weight?

No, I'm implying that the belay loop and carabiner are an extra variable to go wrong. I learned to eliminate as many variables as possible when my life is at risk. I tie into my harness unless top roping in a gym.


ha so you climb with two harnesses, and two ropes with two belay devices and you use two quick draws on each bolt...

These guys are suspended from an above anchor and using accenders to make upward progression. Anchoring from a bely loop is just fine. Besides your trust your belay loop to catch a 25 foot whipper...no? Sitting on the belay loop is fine. you trust one piece of webbing to hold your carabiners together in a quick draw...
If you listen to the commentary the bolts are pulling at about 80 lbs (40 kilos) of force, well less than half the wiehgt of a grown guy.

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