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climb_for_life
Sep 19, 2011, 7:29 PM
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What are the best draws for trad I was gonna buy spirits but I read a thread that dogbones are terrible for trad so are slings with two biners also known as trad draws that much better? Thanks in advance
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kennoyce
Sep 19, 2011, 7:34 PM
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climb_for_life wrote: What are the best draws for trad I was gonna buy spirits but I read a thread that dogbones are terrible for trad so are slings with two biners also known as trad draws that much better? Thanks in advance Yes
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tolman_paul
Sep 19, 2011, 9:44 PM
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I've never heard of a trad draw, draws aka quickdraws are simply not the same as a sling or runner. As to best, I really can't see a signifigant difference between those offered by various manufacturers, there really is only so much you can do when sewing a length of webbing into a sling. I find a full length aka 24" runner carried doubled up is about the most flexible runner for trad climbing.
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kennoyce
Sep 19, 2011, 9:49 PM
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tolman_paul wrote: I've never heard of a trad draw, draws aka quickdraws are simply not the same as a sling or runner. As to best, I really can't see a signifigant difference between those offered by various manufacturers, there really is only so much you can do when sewing a length of webbing into a sling. I find a full length aka 24" runner carried doubled up is about the most flexible runner for trad climbing. A trad draw is a tripled 24" runner with 2 biners.
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tolman_paul
Sep 19, 2011, 10:20 PM
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Alot of stuff gets thrown around here weekly, much of which I ingore. I just don't see how doubling or trippling a runner turns it into a quickdraw. But, I guess I'm old fashioned.
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marc801
Sep 19, 2011, 10:25 PM
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tolman_paul wrote: I just don't see how doubling or trippling a runner turns it into a quickdraw. But, I guess I'm old fashioned. That is the original definition of quickdraw and what we called them in the Gunks, Boulder, and Yosemite 30 years ago.
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rocknice2
Sep 19, 2011, 11:21 PM
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tolman_paul wrote: I just don't see how doubling or trippling a runner turns it into a quickdraw. It doesn't. It turns it ito a trad draw
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njrox
Sep 19, 2011, 11:49 PM
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marc801 wrote: tolman_paul wrote: I just don't see how doubling or trippling a runner turns it into a quickdraw. But, I guess I'm old fashioned. That is the original definition of quickdraw and what we called them in the Gunks, Boulder, and Yosemite 30 years ago. yep. and that's what you see there too.
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marc801
Sep 20, 2011, 12:43 AM
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rocknice2 wrote: tolman_paul wrote: I just don't see how doubling or trippling a runner turns it into a quickdraw. It doesn't. It turns it ito a trad draw I think the term "trad draw" was invented by rc.com n00bs.
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meanandugly
Sep 20, 2011, 12:55 AM
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Trad draw= a 24 inch loop of webbing tied with a water knot and 2 oval non-locking biners.
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rtwilli4
Sep 20, 2011, 1:49 AM
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I carry a few draws w/ dyneema dogbones, a few slings over my shoulder and a few trippled slings on my harness. Stiff dogbones are fine on gear sometimes, and other times you want a loose sling.
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olderic
Sep 20, 2011, 2:45 AM
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marc801 wrote: I think the term "trad draw" was invented by rc.com n00bs. Bingo. Anyone with a sense of history (which leaves out the nOObs) would realize that it would be more logical to refer to "sport slings" as opposed to "quick draws". They have reinvented the terminology we used to call a"tripled runner". Anyone for "hero loops"?
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livinonasandbar
Sep 20, 2011, 2:46 AM
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Fuckin' climbers, eh?
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shockabuku
Sep 20, 2011, 12:57 PM
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olderic wrote: marc801 wrote: I think the term "trad draw" was invented by rc.com n00bs. Bingo. Anyone with a sense of history (which leaves out the nOObs) would realize that it would be more logical to refer to "sport slings" as opposed to "quick draws". They have reinvented the terminology we used to call a"tripled runner". Anyone for "hero loops"? A guy whose username is OLDeric bashes people for not knowing history. Has such a thing ever occurred?
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Kartessa
Sep 20, 2011, 1:26 PM
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shockabuku wrote: olderic wrote: marc801 wrote: I think the term "trad draw" was invented by rc.com n00bs. Bingo. Anyone with a sense of history (which leaves out the nOObs) would realize that it would be more logical to refer to "sport slings" as opposed to "quick draws". They have reinvented the terminology we used to call a"tripled runner". Anyone for "hero loops"? A guy whose username is OLDeric bashes people for not knowing history. Has such a thing ever occurred? I don't know, I'm just a n00b
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dan2see
Sep 20, 2011, 3:15 PM
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climb_for_life wrote: What are the best draws for trad I was gonna buy spirits but I read a thread that dogbones are terrible for trad so are slings with two biners also known as trad draws that much better? Thanks in advance Get the ones with the coolest color.
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jeepnphreak
Sep 20, 2011, 3:53 PM
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climb_for_life wrote: What are the best draws for trad I was gonna buy spirits but I read a thread that dogbones are terrible for trad so are slings with two biners also known as trad draws that much better? Thanks in advance Well spirits are a keynose carabiner from petzl you can get those with our with out the dog bone, and my personal fav for Sport draws(fixed dog bone) but I do take 4 sport draws of them with me for stoppers (unless the route really wanders). For "trad" draws I like a 24" swen runner with two neutrinos. I useally save those for cams to prevent walking. The blue water titan runners are nice and thin keeping the bulk down.
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zealotnoob
Sep 20, 2011, 6:00 PM
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climb_for_life wrote: What are the best draws for trad I was gonna buy spirits but I read a thread that dogbones are terrible for trad so are slings with two biners also known as trad draws that much better? Thanks in advance I'm a fan of Wildcountry Heliums on dyneema. They are light, but full sized, versatile.
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climb_for_life
Sep 20, 2011, 7:29 PM
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Alright let me clarify I know what the Spirit Express Quickdraws are excuse me for calling them Spirits Basiacally im aking would you rather climb with tripled runners with two biners aka "trad draws" Or the Spirit Express draws Will a dog bone runnr cause your placements to walk? or will they be a good choice
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6pacfershur
Sep 20, 2011, 8:46 PM
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In reply to: I don't know, I'm just a n00b i think its obvious....
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shockabuku
Sep 20, 2011, 9:53 PM
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A shorter, stiffer dogbone will tend to cause your cams to walk more and lift out your nuts more easily. Although I sometimes like my nuts lifted, I don't like it when I'm trad climbing. The use of a 24" runner for clipping the gear to the rope will decrease this tendency. I personally would recommend wiregate biners with them for trad climbing but that's mostly personal preference. Some gear won't need it, i.e. stuff that's in a straight line between other pieces (no pull on it) or stuff that's so bomber tight it can't pull/walk. Putting the longer draw in the tripled up configuration just makes it more convenient to carry around and it also makes for an adequate sport climbing quickdraw.
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ChalkIsCheap
Sep 21, 2011, 4:39 PM
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zealotnoob wrote: climb_for_life wrote: What are the best draws for trad I was gonna buy spirits but I read a thread that dogbones are terrible for trad so are slings with two biners also known as trad draws that much better? Thanks in advance I'm a fan of Wildcountry Heliums on dyneema. They are light, but full sized, versatile. +1
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bearbreeder
Sep 21, 2011, 5:01 PM
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matt wilder on a 5.14a R route ... he uses inferno draws on nuts and small cams no less id assume he knows something about trad climbing just use a mix of slings and draws ... extend when needed dont make me post up the shots of sonnie trotter or peter croft using quickdraws on nuts ... i would think they also know something about this trad thing
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Sep 21, 2011, 5:03 PM)
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