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surfstar
Sep 14, 2011, 5:47 AM
Post #26 of 42
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Get outside where the holds are not bolted on by a routesetter.
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MS1
Sep 14, 2011, 12:53 PM
Post #27 of 42
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sidereus7 wrote: First off, I just want to say that I completely understand that every body type has its advantages and disadvantages, and I truly enjoy watching the creative and awesome ways that varied people climb. That being said, I am 5' 2", 98 lbs, and super flexible. I am just starting to transition TR from 5.9 to 5.10a's and I'm having some trouble with my height. Sometimes on routes, there is nothing but blank wall and I am 6" or more out of reach of the next hold. Can anyone share some helpful techniques for us shorties to reach holds that seem just out of reach? Thanks! =)
Here's a video of some very talented shorter ladies climbing, which might help you visualize some of the movement skills involved.
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lena_chita
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Sep 14, 2011, 2:09 PM
Post #29 of 42
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sidereus7 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Find an intermediate hold, smear, get your feet higher, figure it out. This is what I'm asking. What techniques have other short people found helpful to get them to holds just out of reach.
There is no such thing as "short person technique" to get to the holds that are out of reach. There is just technique, period. EVERY single thing you could think of, that fits into your definition of technique, could be used. It would depend entirely on the details of the specific route/move.
It would be very helpful if you could find a partner who is about the same built as you, but more experienced. Watching them climb and getting their advice would be great. Experienced partners in general would be great, because many experienced climbers would be able to suggest alternatives to you, even if it isn't what they have to do on this route. But short of that, just don't get the shores over your eyes, keep trying the moves and adjusting what you do. Very subtle changes, such as changing your grip from pulling down on a hold to side-pulling, shifting your weight to one side, turning one side in, etc. etc. could often be the answer.
I am 5ft tall, and every one of my regular partners has heard me whine about reachy moves, and reachy clips (I find that reachy clips are more often an issue than reachy moves). I'm good at whining-- it's a great technique to get someone else to hang the draws. :)
But the truth is that only a small minority of the routes are such that the alternative sequence I have to come up is significantly harder than the given grade of the route. On most routes, there are multiple ways of making the moves, and one way is no harder than the other.
I am not sure if you are talking about gym routes, or outside. The gym problems/routes that are set with tracking feet make it much harder to get around the reach issue. Harder, not impossible.
I know that you will look back later at the routes you thought were reachy, and will often discover that they weren't after all. I was just thinking about it this past weekend. We were climbing some routes that I had flashed a couple of years ago, when they were near my limit. At the time I did it, the draws were hanging, and I would have sworn, with complete honesty and conviction, that on each one of these routes there was one draw that I would not have been able to hang myself. Well, jump forward a couple of years, and I am doing the same routes as warm-ups, hanging my own draws, and surprize-surprize, I can reach each bolt. Still, it just shifted my whining to harder routes now. I'll wait a couple more years and then see how I could have done it differently...
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cracklover
Sep 14, 2011, 4:45 PM
Post #30 of 42
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To all those calling BS - if she is in the gym, and under 5'4", it is actually quite possible that there are routes that are poorly set for her height, and are significantly harder than the grade. Not all of them, of course, but she said there is one route.
To the OP - assume, for the moment, that folks here are right, and better technique will get you through. Try everything you can think of, and watch stronger/better short climbers try the same route. But don't overly obsess. I was a route-setter for years. Sometimes route setters just set shitty routes. It happens.
I'm gonna go ahead and jump on the overwhelming bandwagon of advice and repeat this one more time: Get outside.
GO
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jnovakov
Sep 20, 2011, 4:08 PM
Post #31 of 42
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I'm also 5'2... I am a relatively static climber and climb pretty hard.. Reason= flexibility and body tension. I climb with very high feet and have to often mantle up to next moves... So I guess work on flexibility. I rarely climb things and find it completely out of reach.. ESP. Outside since there's usually feet everywhere.
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zealotnoob
Sep 20, 2011, 6:16 PM
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From what I've seen, many short people drive flashy cars or wear loud clothing. Some speak loudly and adopt a more forceful personality.
Seriously though, I think there are many advantages to being on the short side. You're more mobile in tight spaces and have better leverage in high steps and mantles.
Being short certainly didn't slow Lynn Hill down any.
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shockabuku
Sep 20, 2011, 6:20 PM
Post #33 of 42
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sidereus7 wrote: I appreciate the response, and I definitely take your message to heart. I've been working very slowly through the grades, trying not to rush at all as my male friends power past me. However, I sincerely mean that I am standing on the topmost hold with both feet on their tippy toes, and my arms are fully extended upward and the tips of my fingers are still about 6 inches out of reach. (I have a particular route in mind here.) I was just curious if there's some ninja way to get up there. Once again, I appreciate the sentiment, but I do have a particular issue in mind here.
My daughter, who is not quite 5', was climbing with a woman who was proofing problems for a pro comp who was about her height. The advice she gave my daughter was to be prepared to dyno for everything.
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sidereus7
Sep 20, 2011, 6:43 PM
Post #34 of 42
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In reply to: Being short certainly didn't slow Lynn Hill down any.
Thank you for mentioning her, because she seems absolutely incredible. I just watched a few of her climbing videos, and it's great to watch her technique. It's also very inspiring to see someone climb extremely difficult routes at 5' 1".
( For anyone who is interested: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euD7-WF8xtY&feature=related )
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jomagam
Sep 20, 2011, 9:20 PM
Post #35 of 42
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sidereus7 wrote: It's also very inspiring to see someone climb extremely difficult routes at 5' 1".
Revere her all you want, but being 5' 1" and say 100 lb is not a disadvantage especially outside.
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jae8908
Sep 20, 2011, 9:41 PM
Post #36 of 42
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Try climbing through the part that you are having trouble with backwards(from top to bottom). It will help you learn how you need to position your body.
Personally I don't do or recommend this but I know some people who will add in an intermediate jib just to work through a certain part then after they get used to going through it removing the intermediate.
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Marylandclimber
Sep 21, 2011, 12:05 AM
Post #37 of 42
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Just do a dyno. If you don't what that is, then look it up.
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jindap
Nov 4, 2011, 3:16 PM
Post #38 of 42
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sidereus7 wrote: That being said, I am 5' 2", 98 lbs, and super flexible. I am just starting to transition TR from 5.9 to 5.10a's and I'm having some trouble with my height. Sometimes on routes, there is nothing but blank wall and I am 6" or more out of reach of the next hold. Can anyone share some helpful techniques for us shorties to reach holds that seem just out of reach?
I myself am not that tall. at 5'7" i find myself struggling to reach holds that someone just a couple inches taller can grab with such ease. However i climb with friends who are shorter than me who can climb harder problems without struggling to reach because they are technically sound with their technique. granted sometimes, you just have to go dynamically instead of statically but if you focus on body mechanics and fundamentals like lock-offs, twist-locks and the like you'll find that holds seem much closer.
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ceebo
Nov 4, 2011, 3:55 PM
Post #39 of 42
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zealotnoob wrote: From what I've seen, many short people drive flashy cars or wear loud clothing. Some speak loudly and adopt a more forceful personality. Seriously though, I think there are many advantages to being on the short side. You're more mobile in tight spaces and have better leverage in high steps and mantles. Being short certainly didn't slow Lynn Hill down any.
How do you know, their is no way to compare her at another height. As an estimation tough, would 5 inches more reach have made her climb a few letters better?. I tend not to give credit to BS claims that being small forces better technique.. as though reach never becomes a problem even for a 6ft climber.
Besides, the strength to weight bonus of being smaller would make up some. Sounds more like a pluss on routes that are not so reachy for all concerned. Unless ofc you are 3ft.
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tH1e-swiN1e
Nov 11, 2011, 10:26 PM
Post #40 of 42
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find higher feet!!!
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redlude97
Nov 11, 2011, 10:50 PM
Post #41 of 42
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jae8908 wrote: Try climbing through the part that you are having trouble with backwards(from top to bottom). It will help you learn how you need to position your body. Personally I don't do or recommend this but I know some people who will add in an intermediate jib just to work through a certain part then after they get used to going through it removing the intermediate.
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blueshrimp
Sep 4, 2013, 2:13 PM
Post #42 of 42
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What helped me was realizing that I didn't have to "reach" for holds above me.
If you learn to use the holds that are below your shoulders, you can usually move your feet up a bit higher.
Don't "starfish". Move your feet up twice for every time you move your hands. If that means that your hands end up at waist level while your feet start going up to waist level, so be it.
Only "reach" for the far away hold when you've got your feet as high/close to your current hands as possible.
To get your feet as close to your current hands as possible, you can high step or if there are no footholds, smear onto the wall (you need good hands for that). With a smear on the wall and good low handholds you can then easily reach for a handhold that was previously out of reach with your feet on lower footholds.
Dynos are scary on lead. Plus, you need to shoot for a good handhold. Can be risky. So instead...practice smearing with low hands. Go to a ledge on a street somewhere and see how far up you can bring your feet by smearing (I bet you can get it at least a few cms just below your hands). Then see if you can then let go of one hand and with the other reach as high as you can while you use the friction from your smear feet to keep you at that height.
Anyway, that's what helped me.
Also, in the gym, oftentimes for reachy holds I simply only "touch" them as opposed to actually use them as jugs. Remember your hands are mostly for balance, not for pulling. If your hands are just for balance, even reaching a hold with a finger or two will be enough. You don't need the whole hand on the hold, just a finger or two. So if that means you touch the reachy hold only from below with the tip of your finger, learn to use that / let that be enough for you to make your move as opposed to hoping you were taller and could use the full hold as a jug or in a more comfortable position.
The last tip: you don't always have to climb with your body vertical. In other words, you don't always have to have your feet below your hips/below your head. Consider swinging your body such that you move your feet up so that you sort of lie sideways on the wall, as if you were lying on a couch. In other words, your body ending up parallel to the ground, not perpendicular. It looks weird and it doesn't always work, but sometimes it helps you gain some height. Basically, put your feet as high as they will go before you move your hands, even if it means they end up above your head/you end up twisting your body sideways. Seriously.
Anyway, that's what helped me and sorry for replying to an old thread, it seemed interesting. I'm 5'1".
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