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rocker1525


Sep 21, 2011, 1:50 AM
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Help with first comp!
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So I just found out the gym that I go to is having a comp in month. How should I train? Is there a guide? Or is it climb hard all the way up to the comp? This will be my first comp, what can I expect, what should I prepair for? What do you do to get ready for a comp? Thanks and any information is a great help!


(This post was edited by rocker1525 on Sep 21, 2011, 2:08 AM)


sbaclimber


Sep 21, 2011, 2:04 AM
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rocker1525 wrote:
...what should I prepaid for?
I think that will only happen once you go pro... Tongue


uni_jim


Sep 21, 2011, 2:06 AM
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Re: [rocker1525] Help with first comp! [In reply to]
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rocker1525 wrote:
So I just found out the gym that I go to is having a comp in month. How should I train? Is there a guide? Or is it climb hard all the way up to the comp? This will be my first comp, what can I expect, what should I prepaid for? What do you do to get ready for a comp? Thanks and any information is a great help!


start by sucking the judges balls. /I'm drunk and It's muy B-day, so don't ban me!


uni_jim


Sep 21, 2011, 2:09 AM
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comp climbing is against my moral values.


(This post was edited by uni_jim on Sep 21, 2011, 2:09 AM)


rocker1525


Sep 21, 2011, 2:09 AM
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I live 2 hours away from the gym so this may be a problem, happy birthday


uni_jim


Sep 21, 2011, 2:12 AM
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Haha! Thx!!!


shockabuku


Sep 21, 2011, 3:58 AM
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rocker1525 wrote:
I live 2 hours away from the gym so this may be a problem, happy birthday

You live two hours away from your gym? How often do you go there?

Comps generally last about 3-4 hours and typically you get scored on your best (highest point value) 3-5 problems. So, be prepared to climb at relatively high intensity for a rather long time. Take two to three rest days prior to the comp. Have some light snacks for during the comp. How you should train between then and now probably depends on how often and how long you can train and how hard you climb now.


lena_chita
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Sep 21, 2011, 5:09 AM
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Unless you are a prodigy and expecting to win the top category in the first-ever comp you participate in, there is nothing special you need to do before your first comp. Just rest for 1-2 days before the comp.

Local climbing competitions are mostly meant to get people to have fun. There will be probably several categories you can enter in (beginner, intermediate, advanced), and judging by your question, you should be in beginners. Sometimes comps will give small prizes for first 3 places in each category.

All problems will have scores assigned to them, based on their difficulty and on whether you do it on the first try or subsequent tries. You climb for 3-4 hours, do the hardest problems you can, get witnesses to sign your score card. Usually you get scored on the top 5 problems that you have completed.

There are some modifications to the above format, depending on the competition, but the people in charge will go over the rules before the comp starts, and I am sure if you call the gym beforehand they will be happy to answer all your questions, too.


jae8908


Sep 21, 2011, 7:33 AM
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Go climb the hardest problems that you can until the comp and practice on them. Most likely the same routesetters who set those will be setting the comp routes. learn their moves and what they like to do with routes.


rocker1525


Sep 21, 2011, 9:38 AM
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shockabuku wrote:
rocker1525 wrote:
I live 2 hours away from the gym so this may be a problem, happy birthday

You live two hours away from your gym? How often do you go there?

Comps generally last about 3-4 hours and typically you get scored on your best (highest point value) 3-5 problems. So, be prepared to climb at relatively high intensity for a rather long time. Take two to three rest days prior to the comp. Have some light snacks for during the comp. How you should train between then and now probably depends on how often and how long you can train and how hard you climb now.
I go 2-3 times a month, I try to go as often as possible, I have a woody in my garage, it Has a 45 degree wall, so I train on that as much as possible.
Their grades are beginner intermediate and advanced, what gade should I enter if the hardest boulder I've climbed is v4?

Thank you all for the advice, I know this isnt like a huge comp, and I'm going to have fun, but I would still like to do well


JAB


Sep 21, 2011, 10:04 AM
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Is it a boulder comp or roped climbing competition? I assume boulder.

The main difficulty in boulder comps is that there are lots of problems and lots of time. This means you will get exhausted by the sheer volume. So I would train endurance before. Make sure to be well rested before the comp and have (energy) drinks & food during the comp to keep up the steam. Do not try to flash any problem, but instead look at what the others do, and carefully memorize the moves. And do not try to climb something 10 times, you will just use up your energy. If you don't improve on every try, move on to the next problem.


shockabuku


Sep 21, 2011, 10:06 AM
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rocker1525 wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
rocker1525 wrote:
I live 2 hours away from the gym so this may be a problem, happy birthday

You live two hours away from your gym? How often do you go there?

Comps generally last about 3-4 hours and typically you get scored on your best (highest point value) 3-5 problems. So, be prepared to climb at relatively high intensity for a rather long time. Take two to three rest days prior to the comp. Have some light snacks for during the comp. How you should train between then and now probably depends on how often and how long you can train and how hard you climb now.
I go 2-3 times a month, I try to go as often as possible, I have a woody in my garage, it Has a 45 degree wall, so I train on that as much as possible.
Their grades are beginner intermediate and advanced, what gade should I enter if the hardest boulder I've climbed is v4?

Thank you all for the advice, I know this isnt like a huge comp, and I'm going to have fun, but I would still like to do well

V4 is probably low intermediate but I would ask the gym how they normally categorize.


Partner j_ung


Sep 21, 2011, 11:56 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] Help with first comp! [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
Unless you are a prodigy and expecting to win the top category in the first-ever comp you participate in, there is nothing special you need to do before your first comp. Just rest for 1-2 days before the comp.

And do this.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._at_a_Comp__265.html


rgbscan


Sep 21, 2011, 12:14 PM
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I just started comp climbing last year. I didn't know anything going in, but here's what I've learned and what has been working for me.

There are different categories you can register for. Based on the class you register for, the routes or problems will be a different level of difficulty. For example, the beginner class might be 5.5 to 5.9 and V0 to V3.

In the comps I've climbed at, there have generally been about 15-20 problems/routes made available to each class. You got 2 attempts at each one. If you didn't do it on the first attempt, you're second try was worth fewer points. After that, you could not earn points on that route.

Don't climb right away. You usually get hours to do the comp, and the herd really thins out after the first hour. Take this time to get beta on all the routes. See what moves work and which ones don't. When you are ready to climb, you go take your scorecard over to the judge/belayer for that route (or maybe put it at the bottom of the pile if there is a line).

So with so many routes and the harder routes worth more points, you'll want to try to do the hardest route you know you can finish first. Lock in those points early when you are still fresh. After you've locked in the tough ones you know you can get, make attempts at the harder ones. You'll still have some energy in you and you might just pull them off.

When you're feeling a bit spent, take a break. Eat a banana or a pbnj. Shake out the arms. When you get your second wind, go knock out all that easy stuff.

Its a lot of fun. for preparing, Climb hard in the weeks leading up to it. I'd say take 2 days off before hand and take it easy. Get lots of sleep. hydrate well.

Have fun!


rocker1525


Sep 22, 2011, 12:03 AM
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Re: [j_ung] Help with first comp! [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Unless you are a prodigy and expecting to win the top category in the first-ever comp you participate in, there is nothing special you need to do before your first comp. Just rest for 1-2 days before the comp.

And do this.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._at_a_Comp__265.html

I had a pretty bad day, and this story just made my day so much better, thanks! So no exlax.... Check


rocker1525


Sep 22, 2011, 12:08 AM
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rgbscan wrote:
I just started comp climbing last year. I didn't know anything going in, but here's what I've learned and what has been working for me.

There are different categories you can register for. Based on the class you register for, the routes or problems will be a different level of difficulty. For example, the beginner class might be 5.5 to 5.9 and V0 to V3.

In the comps I've climbed at, there have generally been about 15-20 problems/routes made available to each class. You got 2 attempts at each one. If you didn't do it on the first attempt, you're second try was worth fewer points. After that, you could not earn points on that route.

Don't climb right away. You usually get hours to do the comp, and the herd really thins out after the first hour. Take this time to get beta on all the routes. See what moves work and which ones don't. When you are ready to climb, you go take your scorecard over to the judge/belayer for that route (or maybe put it at the bottom of the pile if there is a line).

So with so many routes and the harder routes worth more points, you'll want to try to do the hardest route you know you can finish first. Lock in those points early when you are still fresh. After you've locked in the tough ones you know you can get, make attempts at the harder ones. You'll still have some energy in you and you might just pull them off.

When you're feeling a bit spent, take a break. Eat a banana or a pbnj. Shake out the arms. When you get your second wind, go knock out all that easy stuff.

Its a lot of fun. for preparing, Climb hard in the weeks leading up to it. I'd say take 2 days off before hand and take it easy. Get lots of sleep. hydrate well.

Have fun!


Thank you so much! This was perfect!
Went to the gym again today I'm still about at the same level I have been at but I plan on climbing every other day up to the comp and maybe some cario and core days in there too


shockabuku


Sep 22, 2011, 4:00 PM
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rgbscan wrote:
I just started comp climbing last year. I didn't know anything going in, but here's what I've learned and what has been working for me.

There are different categories you can register for. Based on the class you register for, the routes or problems will be a different level of difficulty. For example, the beginner class might be 5.5 to 5.9 and V0 to V3.

In the comps I've climbed at, there have generally been about 15-20 problems/routes made available to each class. You got 2 attempts at each one. If you didn't do it on the first attempt, you're second try was worth fewer points. After that, you could not earn points on that route.

Don't climb right away. You usually get hours to do the comp, and the herd really thins out after the first hour. Take this time to get beta on all the routes. See what moves work and which ones don't. When you are ready to climb, you go take your scorecard over to the judge/belayer for that route (or maybe put it at the bottom of the pile if there is a line).

So with so many routes and the harder routes worth more points, you'll want to try to do the hardest route you know you can finish first. Lock in those points early when you are still fresh. After you've locked in the tough ones you know you can get, make attempts at the harder ones. You'll still have some energy in you and you might just pull them off.

When you're feeling a bit spent, take a break. Eat a banana or a pbnj. Shake out the arms. When you get your second wind, go knock out all that easy stuff.

Its a lot of fun. for preparing, Climb hard in the weeks leading up to it. I'd say take 2 days off before hand and take it easy. Get lots of sleep. hydrate well.

Have fun!

Most comps don't put a limit on the number of attempts but they often have a penalty for falls.


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