Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners:
old bolt safety?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Beginners

Premier Sponsor:

 


feetfirst


Sep 21, 2011, 3:12 PM
Post #1 of 6 (888 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2011
Posts: 42

old bolt safety?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm climbing at a location with some really old school bolts and anchors. Is there a way I can trully tell if they're safe for use without going through and putting myself in some necessary harm?


healyje


Sep 21, 2011, 3:25 PM
Post #2 of 6 (880 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4199

Re: [feetfirst] old bolt safety? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Where are you talking about...?


feetfirst


Sep 21, 2011, 3:43 PM
Post #3 of 6 (871 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2011
Posts: 42

Re: [healyje] old bolt safety? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There's a route on rock mountain in San Diego county that has some sketch looking bolts


rock_fencer


Sep 21, 2011, 4:04 PM
Post #4 of 6 (857 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752

Re: [feetfirst] old bolt safety? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

if its single pitch then you can just rap in on a gear anchor and bounce test the bolts. Or you can whip on them backed up by gear. or just dont fall


tolman_paul


Sep 21, 2011, 4:06 PM
Post #5 of 6 (857 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 22, 2005
Posts: 385

Re: [feetfirst] old bolt safety? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The only way to really test them is to put a load on them, but that is likely to either blow them out, or further weaken them.

If the hangers are loose and they just give you the goosebumps, then take it as a cue for you to do some community service and replace the mank with a modern quality bolt.

The time and effort to bring out and rig up test equipment to load a bolt is greater than a pair of tuning forks, a hammer, a drill and a new bolt and hanger.


Partner j_ung


Sep 21, 2011, 6:08 PM
Post #6 of 6 (823 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18687

Re: [tolman_paul] old bolt safety? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

tolman_paul wrote:
The only way to really test them is to put a load on them, but that is likely to either blow them out, or further weaken them.

If the hangers are loose and they just give you the goosebumps, then take it as a cue for you to do some community service and replace the mank with a modern quality bolt.

The time and effort to bring out and rig up test equipment to load a bolt is greater than a pair of tuning forks, a hammer, a drill and a new bolt and hanger.

Sure, along with somebody who has replaced old hardware before.


Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook