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old bolt safety?
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feetfirst


Sep 21, 2011, 10:12 PM
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Registered: Sep 20, 2011
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old bolt safety?
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I'm climbing at a location with some really old school bolts and anchors. Is there a way I can trully tell if they're safe for use without going through and putting myself in some necessary harm?


healyje


Sep 21, 2011, 10:25 PM
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Re: [feetfirst] old bolt safety? [In reply to]
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Where are you talking about...?


feetfirst


Sep 21, 2011, 10:43 PM
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Re: [healyje] old bolt safety? [In reply to]
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There's a route on rock mountain in San Diego county that has some sketch looking bolts


rock_fencer


Sep 21, 2011, 11:04 PM
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Re: [feetfirst] old bolt safety? [In reply to]
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if its single pitch then you can just rap in on a gear anchor and bounce test the bolts. Or you can whip on them backed up by gear. or just dont fall


tolman_paul


Sep 21, 2011, 11:06 PM
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Re: [feetfirst] old bolt safety? [In reply to]
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The only way to really test them is to put a load on them, but that is likely to either blow them out, or further weaken them.

If the hangers are loose and they just give you the goosebumps, then take it as a cue for you to do some community service and replace the mank with a modern quality bolt.

The time and effort to bring out and rig up test equipment to load a bolt is greater than a pair of tuning forks, a hammer, a drill and a new bolt and hanger.


Partner j_ung


Sep 22, 2011, 1:08 AM
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Re: [tolman_paul] old bolt safety? [In reply to]
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tolman_paul wrote:
The only way to really test them is to put a load on them, but that is likely to either blow them out, or further weaken them.

If the hangers are loose and they just give you the goosebumps, then take it as a cue for you to do some community service and replace the mank with a modern quality bolt.

The time and effort to bring out and rig up test equipment to load a bolt is greater than a pair of tuning forks, a hammer, a drill and a new bolt and hanger.

Sure, along with somebody who has replaced old hardware before.


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