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jnovakov


Sep 26, 2011, 6:41 PM
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Training suggestions?
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I've recently picked up my training a bit since a comp season is starting in a month that i really want to do well in. I was wondering if anyone could give me any suggestions or comments on my training routine.

I climb every other day, if I'm still sore on my on day I'll take an extra day. I always warm up for about 40 mins doing easy up and downs, take a 10 or so min break and work on all my projects in my gym. I try to spend more time on problems that have my weaknesses (pinches and sloppers and burly moves). After a couple hours I'll do a half hour workout and then cool down on easy climbs and stretch.

My workouts aways start with 3 sets of pullups on jugs until failure, the last pull up of each set I'll hold 90 degrees for as long as i can. every other climbing session I'll hold onto the crappiest pinches and sloppers for 30 second intervals (with 30 secs rest) until failure. Once a week on my on days I'll do campus work, just up and down on the biggest strips until failure. The days I dont do hangs on the finger board I'll hold 90 degrees in a pull up and get my legs in a L position as long as I can and end with a pull up if I can manage, and I'll do this 3-5 sets depending how I'm feeling. Occasionally I'll do one arm lockoffs on each arm for a few sets. I always 25 pushups and occasional I'll do an abb workout.

On my off days I'll do eliptical for an hour (will this build unneeded bulk in my legs??).

I am a very static climber and excell at things with close handed grip. I am extremely flexible and I think technique is also a strength. I'm not the greatest at slopers and pinches, and being burly or dynamic. (Also I'm 5'2, 105lbs)

(The days I go on climbing trips or just outside I dont do any training following.(not going outside as much now that school has started))

Comments? (Other then me driving the fun out of climbing lol, I do really enjoy training and obviously pushing my body as far as I can.)
Jen


jbro_135


Sep 26, 2011, 8:00 PM
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Re: [jnovakov] Training suggestions? [In reply to]
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If you want to increase strength, you should try doing dead hangs for shorter intervals on worse holds or with added weight. Hanging for 30 seconds doesn't achieve hypertrophy and puts excess strain on your shoulders. Try doing sets where you pick a grip and add or subtract weight so you can only hold on for around 5 seconds. Do 5-10 reps of 5-8 seconds hanging and the same amount of time resting between reps.


jnovakov


Sep 26, 2011, 8:18 PM
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Re: [jbro_135] Training suggestions? [In reply to]
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I forgot to add that I do the hangs with a foot on a foot chip so I don't over stress myself and just pumP the crap out of my arms. Still a bad idea? I do like your idea though, it seems like it will be more effective. Thanks for the input!


gunkiemike


Sep 27, 2011, 2:59 AM
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Re: [jnovakov] Training suggestions? [In reply to]
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jnovakov wrote:
I forgot to add that I do the hangs with a foot on a foot chip so I don't over stress myself and just pumP the crap out of my arms. Still a bad idea? I do like your idea though, it seems like it will be more effective. Thanks for the input!

I did that for a while. Quit when I developed a raging case of elbow tendonitis (lateral epichondylitis). So no more repetitive stuff for me.


ceebo


Sep 27, 2011, 6:27 AM
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jnovakov wrote:
I forgot to add that I do the hangs with a foot on a foot chip so I don't over stress myself and just pumP the crap out of my arms. Still a bad idea? I do like your idea though, it seems like it will be more effective. Thanks for the input!

You have to stress yourself to improve strength. Unless things have changed, 6-8 seconds is a standard dead hang rep. I personally go for 10 sets of my weakest style, being half crimp atm.


johnwesely


Sep 27, 2011, 9:13 AM
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How hard do you climbing right now?


jnovakov


Sep 27, 2011, 9:45 AM
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The hardest I've climbed outside is 12c, don't boulder outside very often so I'm not sure about that. Inside I can usually project and get everything in my gym and onsight most problems... The bouldering is kindof soft mostly


shockabuku


Sep 27, 2011, 10:00 AM
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How long do you work problems? Sounds like a very power/strength based training plan which is good for bouldering but you might want to add some endurance component in there if you run out of gas during comps.


jnovakov


Sep 27, 2011, 10:15 AM
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Ill work on them until I stop making progress then I'll come back to them the next session. Thats a good pt., I'll probubly incorp. some hard 4x4s. Thanks for the suggestion!:)


jnovakov


Sep 27, 2011, 10:20 AM
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So ditch the footchip and start doing shorter hangs? Will deffinitely start doing that so I can get more out of my workout. Do you think its too strenuous on my tendons to do every other session? maybe once a week? I already hurt my bicep tendon doing campus board stuff every session instead of once a week a couple months ago, apperently thats really stupid lol. Hoping not to make the same kind of mistake again :p lol.


jbro_135


Sep 27, 2011, 11:52 AM
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You shouldn't think about your hour or two of working projects and half hour "workout" as separate.

A typical power training day for me would be half an hour of warm-up, then whatever my exercise I have planned for the day is - hangboarding, campusing, etc. Then I might do some CIR training (doing problems 1-2 V grades below my limit with plenty of rest in between) or endurance or something.

To avoid injury you should always do strenuous activities like campusing and hangboarding just after you warm up when you have lots of energy.


sungam


Sep 27, 2011, 1:27 PM
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Lots of great information at these links:


http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html


http://www.planetfear.com/articles.archive.php (search for "Gresham")

http://www.moonclimbing.com/school-room-c-334.html

http://www.nicros.com/training/


ceebo


Sep 27, 2011, 2:33 PM
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Re: [jnovakov] Training suggestions? [In reply to]
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jnovakov wrote:
So ditch the footchip and start doing shorter hangs? Will deffinitely start doing that so I can get more out of my workout. Do you think its too strenuous on my tendons to do every other session? maybe once a week? I already hurt my bicep tendon doing campus board stuff every session instead of once a week a couple months ago, apperently thats really stupid lol. Hoping not to make the same kind of mistake again :p lol.

It really depends on you. So long as the reps and duration is kept with in reason then you could do it 4-5 days a week. But, imo it is better to just do it once per week and make it a full out rip your fingers off session with a good rest day after.

Lately my main source of strength gains is from long term project climbs and once per week weighted campusing (i only do taps though). One of the projects has some very heavy full crimping, another has some pumpy open hand and monos etc. So i just swap between the 2 when my fingers feel the pace of a certain style.

Oh btw, when i do get some dead hangs done i do every set in L sit just to get some core in their. I also use a few lock off positions in the arms that i alternate through in every set. Just gives a bit more gains and makes it feel more worth while.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Sep 27, 2011, 2:36 PM)


jnovakov


Sep 28, 2011, 6:01 AM
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Re: [jbro_135] Training suggestions? [In reply to]
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Noted. Your workout seems much more effective, I'll deffinitely incorp that... So if I'm projecting one day I shouldn't follow with a workout? Just out of curiosity, what does CIR stand for?
Thanks!
Jen


jnovakov


Sep 28, 2011, 6:10 AM
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Alright, thanks for the suggestions. L hangs on the campus board sound really good, I'll deffinitely give that a go.

Noone really put any input towards my off days. Do you think what I'm doing is a good/bad idea? Will elliptical add unnecessary weight to my legs? Biking? Would you suggest anything else on off days?
Thanks!
Jen


jnovakov


Sep 28, 2011, 7:26 AM
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These links are money! Thanks!


johnwesely


Sep 28, 2011, 7:36 AM
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jnovakov wrote:
Noted. Your workout seems much more effective, I'll deffinitely incorp that... So if I'm projecting one day I shouldn't follow with a workout? Just out of curiosity, what does CIR stand for?
Thanks!
Jen

Continuous intensity repetitions. The idea is that you repeat the hardest route or boulder problem you can do with out a pump 10-15 times, allowing your heart to return to baseline between reps.


johnwesely


Sep 28, 2011, 7:37 AM
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Also, this is the best training blog I have found.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/


ceebo


Sep 28, 2011, 8:18 AM
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jnovakov wrote:
Alright, thanks for the suggestions. L hangs on the campus board sound really good, I'll deffinitely give that a go.

Noone really put any input towards my off days. Do you think what I'm doing is a good/bad idea? Will elliptical add unnecessary weight to my legs? Biking? Would you suggest anything else on off days?
Thanks!
Jen

Weed is a good option, no better way to re-stock carbs Laugh.


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