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Reaganchung
Sep 28, 2011, 2:49 PM
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ilikepargo
Oct 4, 2011, 1:33 AM
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A couple of years ago the anchors on "Laserline" on the Gorilla Face at Devil's Punchbowl seemed pretty sketchy. I haven't been back up that one since then, but I'd like to. It's got such a wicked crux! I mentioned this to Medusa last Winter, but I have no idea whether he or anyone else has been up there.
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pylonhead
Oct 4, 2011, 1:44 AM
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ilikepargo wrote: A couple of years ago the anchors on "Laserline" on the Gorilla Face at Devil's Punchbowl seemed pretty sketchy. I haven't been back up that one since then, but I'd like to. It's got such a wicked crux! I mentioned this to Medusa last Winter, but I have no idea whether he or anyone else has been up there.
There are definitely some sketchy bolts on some of the less traveled slab routes at the Punchbowl.
At Malibu Creek, I'm pretty sure one of the fixed biners at the top of Nipple Denial Syndrome (stumbling blocks) is welded open.
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ianmeister89
Oct 4, 2011, 2:38 AM
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ilikepargo wrote: A couple of years ago the anchors on "Laserline" on the Gorilla Face at Devil's Punchbowl seemed pretty sketchy. I haven't been back up that one since then, but I'd like to. It's got such a wicked crux! I mentioned this to Medusa last Winter, but I have no idea whether he or anyone else has been up there.
I think I may be going to the punchowl this weekend, I'll check it out. Yes, many of the slab routes have outdated bolts, but most don't really get enough (any) traffic from what I've seen to merit rebolting. Slot machine, however may not be a bad one to look into.
-Ian
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ianmeister89
Oct 4, 2011, 2:41 AM
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The fixed biners are welded shut. So, there isn't really that big of an issue, just a bit of an inconvenience. I remember Urban struggle has a tipped out 1/4 bolt with SMC hangar that would definitely be worth replacing.
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healyje
Oct 4, 2011, 4:23 AM
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You should probably post this up over on Supertopo...
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Wavebolt
Oct 4, 2011, 11:32 AM
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Why use mechanical bolts when they are inferior to glue-ins, more expensive, and will have to be replaced again in the future?
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ilikepargo
Oct 5, 2011, 8:15 AM
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ianmeister89 wrote: ilikepargo wrote: A couple of years ago the anchors on "Laserline" on the Gorilla Face at Devil's Punchbowl seemed pretty sketchy. I haven't been back up that one since then, but I'd like to. It's got such a wicked crux! I mentioned this to Medusa last Winter, but I have no idea whether he or anyone else has been up there. I think I may be going to the punchowl this weekend, I'll check it out. Yes, many of the slab routes have outdated bolts, but most don't really get enough (any) traffic from what I've seen to merit rebolting. Slot machine, however may not be a bad one to look into. -Ian
Like I said, it may have been fixed already. I'm not sure. I'll look forward to hearing...
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guangzhou
Oct 18, 2011, 2:38 AM
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Good to see you guys taking initiative and reestablishing climbing routes to a nice safety level.
A comment on slab routes not seeing much traffic. I wonder of it's because the bolts are so bad. Could people be avoiding the routes with bad bolts and rebolting them, the traffic on other routes gets spread out.
Only climb in the area about one week a year when I visit mom, so don't know. The Southern Cal does seem to have a lot of climbers to support this great effort.
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Reaganchung
Oct 18, 2011, 4:11 AM
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medusa
Oct 19, 2011, 2:36 AM
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Better stop your bolting! You have no idea what the hell you're doing..
And Stop spewing about it all over the web. The Punch bowl has a bolting ban if you get caught by the ranger, they my Ban climbing at the bowl.
Since you're a noob climber making big clams on line and your a small little guy. trouble will come your way if you keep it up . Better pull this whole thread. If you have not invested in development or trails or put in time to these areas what gives you the right to just jump trail and start bolting other peoples routes. Bill Levinthal,Matt Oliphant, and many others don't want you fixing their routes. so stop now.
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billcoe_
Oct 28, 2011, 9:35 PM
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medusa wrote: Better stop your bolting! You have no idea what the hell you're doing.. And Stop spewing about it all over the web. The Punch bowl has a bolting ban if you get caught by the ranger, they my Ban climbing at the bowl. Since you're a noob climber making big clams on line and your a small little guy. trouble will come your way if you keep it up . Better pull this whole thread. If you have not invested in development or trails or put in time to these areas what gives you the right to just jump trail and start bolting other peoples routes. Bill Levinthal,Matt Oliphant, and many others don't want you fixing their routes. so stop now.
Well, that ended that conversation.
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