Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners:
Sling Equalette
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Beginners

Premier Sponsor:

 


CurlyFries


Oct 3, 2011, 1:53 PM
Post #1 of 8 (4029 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2011
Posts: 23

Sling Equalette
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just been playing around with knots and stuff. Ive always used a sliding x but set up a couple equalettes for fun. Is this right?





EDIT (moved from deleted post below):
When I tie a sliding X I put overhand knots on both sides closer to the bolt. Doesn't affect the functionality of the X and adds redundancy.



Is there any real practical difference between this and the equalette? (saying the overhand knots are in the same place)

Thanks,
Dave


(This post was edited by CurlyFries on Oct 4, 2011, 8:53 AM)


Rmsyll2


Oct 3, 2011, 6:49 PM
Post #2 of 8 (3948 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2010
Posts: 266

Re: [CurlyFries] Proper Sling Equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Perfect, as far I can see.

If used for two-anchor TR, it can be made longer with pairs of slings between the anchors and the rig. If similar sling material, girth hitch linking is used by many, but others demand only a carabiner link. If slings are equal, the equalette continues to do the equalizing and variable belay point services.

.


CurlyFries


Oct 4, 2011, 5:44 AM
Post #3 of 8 (3890 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2011
Posts: 23

Post deleted by CurlyFries [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


njrox


Oct 4, 2011, 6:42 AM
Post #4 of 8 (3867 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 12, 2011
Posts: 251

Re: [CurlyFries] Proper Sling Equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

CurlyFries wrote:
Is there any real practical difference between this and the equalette?

The impression that I got from John Long's How To Rock Climb is that the equalette is 3 or more anchor points and tied with a cord. And the X (as shown in your picture) is a two bolt and sling set-up. When I think of an equalette...I think of two clove hitches and an eight-knot, and then the x and limiter knots at the master point. yeah, I get what you're saying...they're really close to being the same thing.

do you use nylon or dynema? I only have nylon slings but am thinking of switching to dynema for bolt anchors, just like your picture. normally I use two QDs. how much do the overhands weaken the dynema's strength?


CurlyFries


Oct 4, 2011, 7:28 AM
Post #5 of 8 (3843 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2011
Posts: 23

Re: [njrox] Proper Sling Equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Those slings are 16mm nylon rated to 22kN. I am not sure how much the knot weakens the sling... Someone here will know though!


marc801


Oct 4, 2011, 7:51 AM
Post #6 of 8 (3829 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2747

Re: [CurlyFries] Sling Equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post




6pacfershur


Oct 4, 2011, 8:35 AM
Post #7 of 8 (3797 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 22, 2010
Posts: 217

Re: [CurlyFries] Sling Equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i recommend the colorado-cockbite variation of the knowitall-bitchcross; tie it all together with used gear you bought from a stranger on Ebay....


marc801


Oct 4, 2011, 9:13 AM
Post #8 of 8 (3774 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2747

Re: [6pacfershur] Sling Equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

6pacfershur wrote:
i recommend the colorado-cockbite variation of the knowitall-bitchcross; tie it all together with used gear you bought from a stranger on Ebay....
From what we've seen in the past on rc.noob, there are about 16 too-few knots in that setup. And everyone knows you need a minimum of 4 60kN quintuple equalized anchors to be safe and redundant at your masturbation point.


Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook