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flesh
Oct 5, 2011, 5:43 PM
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It's not too bad, but I'm paranoid because it's a new different type of injury. It only barely hurts when I climb and only when I'm not warmed up.
It's a bit sensitive 2 the touch right where the finger muscles on the bottom part of the forearm connect to the elbow. I've been taking it easy for a couple weeks because I'm going to font for a month in 2 weeks. I took one week off and the pain dissapated and now I'm just traversing every couple days. Like 200 foot long traverses on jugs in the gym.
Anyone experience this? Any solutions aside from time off? I could probably take one more week off and that would give me a couple days climbing before font so I can be in tip top shape. What bad timing eh.?
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johnwesely
Oct 5, 2011, 8:06 PM
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flesh wrote: It's not too bad, but I'm paranoid because it's a new different type of injury. It only barely hurts when I climb and only when I'm not warmed up. It's a bit sensitive 2 the touch right where the finger muscles on the bottom part of the forearm connect to the elbow. I've been taking it easy for a couple weeks because I'm going to font for a month in 2 weeks. I took one week off and the pain dissapated and now I'm just traversing every couple days. Like 200 foot long traverses on jugs in the gym. Anyone experience this? Any solutions aside from time off? I could probably take one more week off and that would give me a couple days climbing before font so I can be in tip top shape. What bad timing eh.?
Whatever you do, don't screw up your trip.
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boadman
Oct 5, 2011, 10:16 PM
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Sounds like over-training. Whenever I get that I do the standard elbow exercises and it goes away.
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JoeNYC
Oct 6, 2011, 2:29 AM
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When my elbow hurts it does in the area you describe i think. I do the exercises that Dr.J describes here: http://www.drjuliansaunders.com/...ticles/dodgy_elbows/ to feel better, and when i stop it comes back, if only i kept with it...
It sounds like tendonosis, which i don't think is a big deal, though i am no expert so take this with a grain (or jar) of salt.
I find it only takes a few days a week of these to start feeling 100% again. I especially like the forearm rotator one, it takes practice to get the spot right but once you find it it works wonders, at least for me.
Have fun in the font!
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adelphos
Oct 6, 2011, 3:25 PM
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This does sound like tendonitis. You should take a look at the other posts on this. Two weeks off is normally not sufficient to fix the problem and if it really gets injured you'll be done for the better part of six months.
Try one of those Dynaflex balls. I used this to aid my recovery as a warmup to my warmup and throughout the day. It really helped a lot.
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flesh
Oct 6, 2011, 4:44 PM
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JoeNYC wrote: When my elbow hurts it does in the area you describe i think. I do the exercises that Dr.J describes here: http://www.drjuliansaunders.com/...ticles/dodgy_elbows/ to feel better, and when i stop it comes back, if only i kept with it... It sounds like tendonosis, which i don't think is a big deal, though i am no expert so take this with a grain (or jar) of salt. I find it only takes a few days a week of these to start feeling 100% again. I especially like the forearm rotator one, it takes practice to get the spot right but once you find it it works wonders, at least for me. Have fun in the font!
Cool, thanks.... I'll start doing this every other day or so between now and when I leave... Not sure what I'll use once I'm there! I guess I could bring a 10lb dumbell on the plane...
so lame..... I guess I'll just warm up real slow and get a nice warm elbow brace to keep it warm and minimize the damage. I am taking the next week off. I'll get a couple deep tissue massages as well before I leave... maybe I can find a massage therapist while I'm there as well to maintain things a bit.
A question for joe nyc. Where it hurts is the medial epicondyle so I guess it's golfer's elbow, i hate golf haha. It's not tendinitis but tendonosis using the dr's definition. Looks like I should be doing the Medial Epicondylosis workout. I guess I'm supposed to get a heavy dumbell and start each rep by holding the weight up with my non affected arm until the fingers on the affected arm are close to the bottom of my forearm and then let go with the non affected arm and slowly let the weight go down until my wrist is down as far as it goes? is this correct?
Seems like I'll have to use alot of weight in order for me to be tired after just ten reps as the dr. suggests.
I just want to make sure I'm reading this correctly so I don't do damage.
(This post was edited by flesh on Oct 6, 2011, 5:11 PM)
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boadman
Oct 6, 2011, 5:35 PM
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I do those same ones, and a couple others that I'm too lazy to describe. It usually takes less than a week for the pain to go away if I do the exercises daily.
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JoeNYC
Oct 7, 2011, 2:45 AM
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[Apologies in advance, I wrote more than intended, oh well.]
That sounds right to me, it took me a bit of practice to get the feeling (changing the weight and position). I do not go to complete failure, or even close, its too scary, i stop as i do the last controlled rep, (so that if i did one more i would loose form). I do three sets of each, twice a day when i climb, before and after (at home) and then randomly on days off, but you will know what feels right for you.
Elaborating on the set up i use, I have a cheap set up that works well: a sawed off piece of broom stick and a 5lb weight.
I have it so the weight is about a foot from the end, though i can adjust it to make it easier or harder to rotate. I hold the weight vertically, and let it drop slowly (a three count) and then raise it up with my other hand back to vertical.
I dont do the other exercise, the one you describe, as much but when i do I have to use more weight, around 15lbs for it to start feeling 'good'. I find that if you go as slowly as he suggests, it doesn't take as much as you'd think to get tired.
I have an elbow brace too, though i recomend only wearing it to keep it warm, because when i climbed with it i noticed other things beginning to ache, and even my other arm starting to feel worse...
Finally, and i may be going a bit too far, but when it was getting annoying to me, i also started to do cold/hot baths for my elbow. taken from here: http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/...ow-for-climbers.html
these felt really good to me, so i figured it wouldn't hurt to add it in. plus it makes your elbows look painted red for a while which is neat.
They should totally call it something cooler, like boxers elbow, golfers elbow sounds so lame...
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jae8908
Oct 11, 2011, 3:03 PM
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if it is medial epicondylitis you should do some wall pushups or tricep dips before climbing. I know this sounds stupid but my girlfriend had medial epicondylitis from climbing as well as one of my friends who is an RN. Our Physical therapist (who also climbs) had them start doing the wall pushups before warming up to climb. The co-contraction will help to strengthen the forearm muscles and keep the epicondylitis from flaring up as bad. Also if you can get some anti inflammatory drugs (meloxicam is nice) they will help as well. If it gets worse I would recommend seeing an actual Physical Therapist, not simply a Massage therapist. Good Luck!
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