Saturday Oct 8th at HCR in Arkansas, a woman fell from near the top of what route I believe was Earl's Revenge. From what I gathered, she was being guided by a HCR worker. I heard a scream and thought it was just someone taking a lead fall and then hear what sounded like a rock hitting the ground. I thought a big plate had pulled and then heard some commotion. I can't express how lucky she was to fall where she did because there were a lot of rocks protruding out of the ground yet missed them. Unconscious and groaning I know she was not conscious but was still breathing. She had NO helmet as she was toproping after the guide led the route but appeared to have no head trauma. I noted she was not tied in and only 1 strand was hanging from the anchors. Her harness was new and intact. The most obvious conclusion is a knot tying failure was the cause as the single figure 8 was intact at the anchors. I don't know if there was a backup knot that also failed. She became more aware and started trying to move. She had a completely broken forearm and most likely spinal cord damage as she could not move her feet on command. Other injuries remain unknown. After 2-3 hours of waiting she was carried on a body board to a helicopter and flown to the nearest trauma hospital.
I really hope that she makes a full recovery and has little complications. I have read incident reports before and never thought I would write one. It always seems to be the same message so I thought this could once again repeat it. Double check and back up everything that you can. Knots, Rapelling, and Communication. I was always under the assumption that the double fishermans backup knot wasn't really needed because I never screw up the double figure 8. But if I do, I doubt that I would screw up both knots in a row thus I should be safe. I will make sure from now on to keep using that damn knot that gets in the way when I am trying to clip, because I would rather blow a clip than take a grounder.
Lastly, I would like to hear how she is doing so if anyone know or hears anything, a post would be nice.

First and foremost I hope for a full recovery for her.

You say there was a figure 8 intact at the end, possible she had been clipped into the 8 with a locker and somehow became unclipped? Hate to speculate this early, but kind of sounds like it to me.

In time we'll know more and no doubt will find out what did indeed happen.

I took that to mean that there was a single figure 8 and not the complete know with follow through (i.e. figure 8 on a bight)?

If she was guided then her guide fuc*ed up and should be hanged by rope

for once i agree with mistah mahhjeed ... if it was guided then someone screwed up

best hope for her recovery

Yikes. Bad news indeed.

If this is true, and it was indeed a client/guide outing, then the guide is 100% at fault. Period. The client's safety and well being is your first and primary responsibility bar none.

I know nothing of the guide or the service they work for, but a knot failure is absolutely unacceptable and there is no good reason or excuse for it.

Unless I'm missing something, the knot was most likely a figure 8 follow through or re-traced figure 8. The double figure 8, like the double bowline is a different knot.

I do not believe, nor do I teach the concept of a "backup" knot. Myself and a number of seasoned guides all consider that to be a finishing knot.

Sorry to hear the bad news.

I think we can obviously agree that the guide was a main accomplice, however hateful phrases like hanging someone doesn't do anyone any good. He may read this and doesn't need any more guilt or regret. The purpose of my post wasn't to blame anyone but more importantly point out that once again the main factor in an accident was complacency and lack of redundancy. As for the posts that say the fig 8 doesn't need a backup, it is probably true. But that 1 time that it is improperly tied DOES need a backup knot. Almost every climb involves weighting the rope to lower, so a properly tied knot is needed. Majid, please don't post anymore pointlessly negative or finger pointing posts on this topic. I'm sure your life record (as well as mine) is complete with many screw-ups, yours just luckily didn't have such horrendous outcomes.

I think we can obviously agree that the guide was a main accomplice, however hateful phrases like hanging someone doesn't do anyone any good. He may read this and doesn't need any more guilt or regret. The purpose of my post wasn't to blame anyone but more importantly point out that once again the main factor in an accident was complacency and lack of redundancy. As for the posts that say the fig 8 doesn't need a backup, it is probably true. But that 1 time that it is improperly tied DOES need a backup knot. Almost every climb involves weighting the rope to lower, so a properly tied knot is needed. Majid, please don't post anymore pointlessly negative or finger pointing posts on this topic. I'm sure your life record (as well as mine) is complete with many screw-ups, yours just luckily didn't have such horrendous outcomes.

Saturday Oct 8th at HCR in Arkansas, a woman fell from near the top of what route I believe was Earl's Revenge. From what I gathered, she was being guided by a HCR worker. I heard a scream and thought it was just someone taking a lead fall and then hear what sounded like a rock hitting the ground. I thought a big plate had pulled and then heard some commotion. I can't express how lucky she was to fall where she did because there were a lot of rocks protruding out of the ground yet missed them. Unconscious and groaning I know she was not conscious but was still breathing. She had NO helmet as she was toproping after the guide led the route but appeared to have no head trauma. I noted she was not tied in and only 1 strand was hanging from the anchors. Her harness was new and intact. The most obvious conclusion is a knot tying failure was the cause as the single figure 8 was intact at the anchors. I don't know if there was a backup knot that also failed. She became more aware and started trying to move. She had a completely broken forearm and most likely spinal cord damage as she could not move her feet on command. Other injuries remain unknown. After 2-3 hours of waiting she was carried on a body board to a helicopter and flown to the nearest trauma hospital.
I really hope that she makes a full recovery and has little complications. I have read incident reports before and never thought I would write one. It always seems to be the same message so I thought this could once again repeat it. Double check and back up everything that you can. Knots, Rapelling, and Communication. I was always under the assumption that the double fishermans backup knot wasn't really needed because I never screw up the double figure 8. But if I do, I doubt that I would screw up both knots in a row thus I should be safe. I will make sure from now on to keep using that damn knot that gets in the way when I am trying to clip, because I would rather blow a clip than take a grounder.
Lastly, I would like to hear how she is doing so if anyone know or hears anything, a post would be nice.

I am one of the climbing guides at HCR and was at the ranch during the accident. There are a number of things that need to be clarified and addressed, and our thoughts need to move on towards a speedy recovery for the girl.

First off, this was not a guided climb. It was three good friends out climbing. The belayer was in fact one of our guides, which is where the assumption came from, but he was simply out climbing with two friends he has known for a long time. It was his day off, and they had come up for the weekend.

Secondly, the accident was an unfinished knot. The climber tied her own knot, and unfortunately she did not finish it. She has been climbing for around 5 years. When she reached the anchors and sat in her harness, the knot came untied and she fell. She was not wearing a helmet, and is beyond lucky that she sustained no head trauma.

Thirdly, it did not take anywhere near 2 to 3 hours before she was flown out. Her belayer had a radio and immediately called it in. We received his message for a mediflight and immediately called 911. First responders were at the parking lot incredibly fast, and mediflight arrived at the same time the ambulance did. There were several EMT's and other knowledgeable people that were on the scene within a matter of moments. In situations like this it often feels like hours have gone by, but I can assure you that she was in the helicopter in around an hour.

This is exactly the kind of thing we all hear about and think will never happen, but that is why they are called accidents. A great majority of us go out and climb without helmets, and a good number of us don't double check our climbers knots. As guides we spend day after day, week after week, tieing clients in and double checking our systems before every climb. We use helmets as guides because that's the right thing to do. But when we go out with our friends, most of us are guilty of ditching the helmet or trusting that our climbing partner can and will tie their knot correctly. Unfortunately, this kind of thing happens, and she is very lucky things went the way they did.

I can't go into the details of her condition, but I can say that things look extremely hopeful. She has no head trauma, and has feeling in her legs. She is expected to make a full recovery, but it will be a very long and difficult road. If you could keep her in your thoughts, that would be greatly appreciated.