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UpToTheOzone
Sep 25, 2011, 3:38 AM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2011
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My hands take much more of a beating climbing indoors. I get blood blisters and I generally end my day due to my hands hurting rather than me being tired. Anything I can do to preserve my hands so that I can last an extra hour in the gym?
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Idako
Sep 25, 2011, 1:55 PM
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Registered: May 2, 2011
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Change up the type of routes a bit, I tend to get a lot more hand damage while doing overhanging juggy routes since i still need to drop some weight. So anytime I am falling off it's a rough time.
When I start to get a bit uncomfortable I move on to more vertical crimpy / pinchy routes. By the end of the night My hands are universally beat up but I was still on for at least 4 hours. Rest for a day or two then back at it.
Not sure how long you've been climbing but eventually callouses will build up and you'll gain some durability.
You can also use tape to protect small parts if they are close to tearing etc.
Now if you have lots of pain inside the hand, not just on the skin, then you may have damaged a tendon or connecting tissue and you may need to take a break to let it heal up.
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jae8908
Sep 26, 2011, 12:19 AM
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Registered: May 15, 2011
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First get you a climb on hand bar.
Second get a box of tampons...
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UpToTheOzone
Sep 26, 2011, 4:10 AM
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Idako wrote: Change up the type of routes a bit, I tend to get a lot more hand damage while doing overhanging juggy routes since i still need to drop some weight. So anytime I am falling off it's a rough time. When I start to get a bit uncomfortable I move on to more vertical crimpy / pinchy routes. By the end of the night My hands are universally beat up but I was still on for at least 4 hours. Rest for a day or two then back at it. Not sure how long you've been climbing but eventually callouses will build up and you'll gain some durability. You can also use tape to protect small parts if they are close to tearing etc. Now if you have lots of pain inside the hand, not just on the skin, then you may have damaged a tendon or connecting tissue and you may need to take a break to let it heal up.
Good call. It's definitely the Juggy overhang routes where more of my weight is on my hands. Those things are so friggin sharp. I wish the gym had more "natural rock" features
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hafilax
Sep 26, 2011, 4:33 AM
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Registered: Dec 12, 2007
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Outdoor climbing hurts my hands.
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JohnCook
Sep 26, 2011, 3:21 PM
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Registered: Dec 27, 2006
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Take more care with hand placement on holds. It sounds as though your main troubles are on big juggy holds. The temptation is to wrap as much hand as possible over the hold. Then, as you load the hand it slides into a stronger more comfortable position. This is often where the surface injuries come from. After you have weighted a hold, look where your hand is relative to that hold. Next hold try to place your hand in that position from the start, so it does not have to adjust under load.
Would have done a Majid drawing, but I am not that technologically smart!
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shockabuku
Sep 26, 2011, 5:42 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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Do it more often - your hands get used to it.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Sep 26, 2011, 6:00 PM
Post #8 of 10
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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Gym holds, especially those big jugs, are pretty tough on your skin, and depending on which holds your gym is using some have more texture and feel much rougher than others.
When you grab the holds, try to pay special attention to placing your hand just right the first time you grab the hold, and then not adjusting your hand position. (it is the exercise called "glue hands" in SCC book-- while it is aimed at making your climbing more precise, it will also have a side benefit of not shredding your hands quite as much)
Instead of trying to climb an extra hour when your hands are bloody and blistery, try to come to the gym more often, 3-4 times a week. Keep climbing, your hands will get tougher.
Use some sort of waxy hand lotion after cleaning your hands post-climbing, and if you get calluses that are too thick in some spots, sand them off, to prevent flappers.
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synrock
Oct 13, 2011, 6:10 PM
Post #9 of 10
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Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
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Tell your gym to get some synrock jugs.
http://www.ebay.com/....l2649#ht_500wt_1349
They are designed to distribute weight evenly along the entire finger-hand contact area so there are no peak stresses on skin or tendons. The texture is both more sticky and much less abrasive than any plastic hold and they are the only molded holds that are cool to the touch.
Next time right after a long climbing session grab on to a piece of metal (pole, bike, dumbbell). Notice how soothing that feels? Plastic holds are heat insulators and can't remove the excess heat from your hands while climbing. Synrock holds stay cool to the touch so you don't get the skin damaging plastic burn. Heat is the real culprit.
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stagg54
Oct 13, 2011, 8:57 PM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 190
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add a capful or two of vinegar to a tub of lukewarm water and soak your hands in that once a day for 10-15 minutes.
Stinks, but works amazingly well.
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