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Getting past the V3 wall with gym training?
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rdrunner2010


Oct 13, 2011, 6:54 PM
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Getting past the V3 wall with gym training?
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Hi all!

I've recently gotten back into rock climbing and its been really tough to get over the V3 wall. A little background, I've been climbing on and off for about 4 years, nothing but bouldering. Not because I hate wall climbing but its nice to be able to hop off the wall and jump right on something different. At the moment I can climb every V3 in the gym but haven't sent any V4s. (There aren't many anyhow)

I guess my question is what gym (not rock gym) training can I do? I don't want to get jacked and have too much muscle weighing me down, but I'm a very tall and skinny guy at the moment. What are some benchmarks that I should try to reach?

Thanks in advance!
-Steve


shoo


Oct 14, 2011, 3:15 AM
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Re: [rdrunner2010] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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I tend to tell people not to do any kind of strength training for climbing until they are climbing fairly hard. Most plateaus are technically based, rather than strength. The strength comes largely by itself just by climbing more.

If I were you, I would just keep working at it regularly a few times a week. Think about your technique, compare beta with other climbers. Be patient. You'll get there for sure.


(This post was edited by shoo on Oct 14, 2011, 3:16 AM)


rsd212


Oct 14, 2011, 8:04 AM
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Re: [rdrunner2010] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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I've also noticed (in gyms especially) there are artificial boundaries where gaps between ratings are large. V3-V4 seems to be one of those, and differences in number grades on ropes seem to be another (10c cant be differentiated from 10d, but then 11a is a big step). Could also be that the person who sets V4 problems just has a different style that you haven't quite caught on to yet. Keep climbing those V3s and work on perfecting the movement, and keep on hitting the V4's and V5's, especially if you can work in with other people to get a bit of beta/energy from them.


ceebo


Oct 15, 2011, 6:06 AM
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Re: [rsd212] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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Easy grades are so bad for technique. Any 1 route has too many ways of completion, sounds like a good deal but in reality your personal solotion is likely wrong. That effect will hit you hard when it comes to your v5's and so.

The best option is getting beta on multiple project problems/routes, like 5 of them at any one time. Nothing spectacularly hard for you, v4- 5 i guess.. with the expectation to send them within a month. Forget about working the moves your self, climb routes you have seen a few people do. After a while you will have sent 20-30 v4-5's and will have a more clear perception of real technique.

Around v4-6 the problems have far less solotions, with that far less opertunity to climb things the wrong way. The main secret is to never think you got it all figured. Allways check with other people for beta just incase you in fact got it wrong. Repeating old problems where possible is also a good reflection on how you felt then to how you feel now.


shockabuku


Oct 15, 2011, 7:52 AM
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Re: [ceebo] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
Easy grades are so bad for technique. Any 1 route has too many ways of completion, sounds like a good deal but in reality your personal solotion is likely wrong. That effect will hit you hard when it comes to your v5's and so.

The best option is getting beta on multiple project problems/routes, like 5 of them at any one time. Nothing spectacularly hard for you, v4- 5 i guess.. with the expectation to send them within a month. Forget about working the moves your self, climb routes you have seen a few people do. After a while you will have sent 20-30 v4-5's and will have a more clear perception of real technique.

Around v4-6 the problems have far less solotions, with that far less opertunity to climb things the wrong way. The main secret is to never think you got it all figured. Allways check with other people for beta just incase you in fact got it wrong. Repeating old problems where possible is also a good reflection on how you felt then to how you feel now.

That's right - there's no room for individuality in this sport.


ceebo


Oct 15, 2011, 9:18 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Easy grades are so bad for technique. Any 1 route has too many ways of completion, sounds like a good deal but in reality your personal solotion is likely wrong. That effect will hit you hard when it comes to your v5's and so.

The best option is getting beta on multiple project problems/routes, like 5 of them at any one time. Nothing spectacularly hard for you, v4- 5 i guess.. with the expectation to send them within a month. Forget about working the moves your self, climb routes you have seen a few people do. After a while you will have sent 20-30 v4-5's and will have a more clear perception of real technique.

Around v4-6 the problems have far less solotions, with that far less opertunity to climb things the wrong way. The main secret is to never think you got it all figured. Allways check with other people for beta just incase you in fact got it wrong. Repeating old problems where possible is also a good reflection on how you felt then to how you feel now.

That's right - there's no room for individuality in this sport.

If it is effecting grade progress and grade progress is an ambition, then no.

Besides, individuality in technique barely applys to climbing. More so it is dictated by your height.


jbro_135


Oct 15, 2011, 7:07 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Easy grades are so bad for technique. Any 1 route has too many ways of completion, sounds like a good deal but in reality your personal solotion is likely wrong. That effect will hit you hard when it comes to your v5's and so.

The best option is getting beta on multiple project problems/routes, like 5 of them at any one time. Nothing spectacularly hard for you, v4- 5 i guess.. with the expectation to send them within a month. Forget about working the moves your self, climb routes you have seen a few people do. After a while you will have sent 20-30 v4-5's and will have a more clear perception of real technique.

Around v4-6 the problems have far less solotions, with that far less opertunity to climb things the wrong way. The main secret is to never think you got it all figured. Allways check with other people for beta just incase you in fact got it wrong. Repeating old problems where possible is also a good reflection on how you felt then to how you feel now.

That's right - there's no room for individuality in this sport.

If it is effecting grade progress and grade progress is an ambition, then no.

Besides, individuality in technique barely applys to climbing. More so it is dictated by your height.


Carlo Traversi rarely heel hooks unless absolutely necessary, he often toe hooks where others wouldn't. Does Carlo Traversi have poor technique?


johnwesely


Oct 15, 2011, 7:25 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
Besides, individuality in technique barely applys to climbing. More so it is dictated by your height.

Watch ten videos of world class climbers. They all have slightly different styles. Most people do not climb anywhere near that hard and have as much "style" as they want.


ceebo


Oct 16, 2011, 8:12 AM
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Re: [jbro_135] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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jbro_135 wrote:
ceebo wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Easy grades are so bad for technique. Any 1 route has too many ways of completion, sounds like a good deal but in reality your personal solotion is likely wrong. That effect will hit you hard when it comes to your v5's and so.

The best option is getting beta on multiple project problems/routes, like 5 of them at any one time. Nothing spectacularly hard for you, v4- 5 i guess.. with the expectation to send them within a month. Forget about working the moves your self, climb routes you have seen a few people do. After a while you will have sent 20-30 v4-5's and will have a more clear perception of real technique.

Around v4-6 the problems have far less solotions, with that far less opertunity to climb things the wrong way. The main secret is to never think you got it all figured. Allways check with other people for beta just incase you in fact got it wrong. Repeating old problems where possible is also a good reflection on how you felt then to how you feel now.

That's right - there's no room for individuality in this sport.

If it is effecting grade progress and grade progress is an ambition, then no.

Besides, individuality in technique barely applys to climbing. More so it is dictated by your height.


Carlo Traversi rarely heel hooks unless absolutely necessary, he often toe hooks where others wouldn't. Does Carlo Traversi have poor technique?

Exactly?.


jbro_135


Oct 16, 2011, 11:42 AM
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Re: [ceebo] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
ceebo wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Easy grades are so bad for technique. Any 1 route has too many ways of completion, sounds like a good deal but in reality your personal solotion is likely wrong. That effect will hit you hard when it comes to your v5's and so.

The best option is getting beta on multiple project problems/routes, like 5 of them at any one time. Nothing spectacularly hard for you, v4- 5 i guess.. with the expectation to send them within a month. Forget about working the moves your self, climb routes you have seen a few people do. After a while you will have sent 20-30 v4-5's and will have a more clear perception of real technique.

Around v4-6 the problems have far less solotions, with that far less opertunity to climb things the wrong way. The main secret is to never think you got it all figured. Allways check with other people for beta just incase you in fact got it wrong. Repeating old problems where possible is also a good reflection on how you felt then to how you feel now.

That's right - there's no room for individuality in this sport.

If it is effecting grade progress and grade progress is an ambition, then no.

Besides, individuality in technique barely applys to climbing. More so it is dictated by your height.


Carlo Traversi rarely heel hooks unless absolutely necessary, he often toe hooks where others wouldn't. Does Carlo Traversi have poor technique?

Exactly?.


good, you're exactly wrong, glad we're on the same page.


ceebo


Oct 16, 2011, 4:15 PM
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Re: [jbro_135] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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jbro_135 wrote:
ceebo wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
ceebo wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Easy grades are so bad for technique. Any 1 route has too many ways of completion, sounds like a good deal but in reality your personal solotion is likely wrong. That effect will hit you hard when it comes to your v5's and so.

The best option is getting beta on multiple project problems/routes, like 5 of them at any one time. Nothing spectacularly hard for you, v4- 5 i guess.. with the expectation to send them within a month. Forget about working the moves your self, climb routes you have seen a few people do. After a while you will have sent 20-30 v4-5's and will have a more clear perception of real technique.

Around v4-6 the problems have far less solotions, with that far less opertunity to climb things the wrong way. The main secret is to never think you got it all figured. Allways check with other people for beta just incase you in fact got it wrong. Repeating old problems where possible is also a good reflection on how you felt then to how you feel now.

That's right - there's no room for individuality in this sport.

If it is effecting grade progress and grade progress is an ambition, then no.

Besides, individuality in technique barely applys to climbing. More so it is dictated by your height.


Carlo Traversi rarely heel hooks unless absolutely necessary, he often toe hooks where others wouldn't. Does Carlo Traversi have poor technique?

Exactly?.


good, you're exactly wrong, glad we're on the same page.

Really?. Sorry.. i just assumed when you said he only does it when absolutely necessary it meant he is trying to climb something at limit. You can't really pick and choose your ''unique'' way of doing things when a move requires nothing but a heel hook.

This reminds me of those people who campus up v4's. Why?... because they can, nothing more.


lazymonkey


Oct 18, 2011, 1:40 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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take it from me, im a 185 lb man with the biceps of a 120 lb girl in jr high.

sit & watch & steal beta from stronger climbers.

im not big on training at all but i do try to end my gym sessions with deadhangs from small edges and slopers on the hangboard at least once or twice a week.

also try to open-hand everything


hyhuu


Oct 20, 2011, 6:29 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Besides, individuality in technique barely applys to climbing. More so it is dictated by your height.

Watch ten videos of world class climbers. They all have slightly different styles. Most people do not climb anywhere near that hard and have as much "style" as they want.

You said it: "style", which is not the same as technique. I have no doubts whatsoever that those then world class climbers are proficient in the all techniques.


cmagee1


Oct 20, 2011, 1:19 PM
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Re: [rdrunner2010] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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rdrunner2010 wrote:
Hi all!

I've recently gotten back into rock climbing and its been really tough to get over the V3 wall. A little background, I've been climbing on and off for about 4 years, nothing but bouldering. Not because I hate wall climbing but its nice to be able to hop off the wall and jump right on something different. At the moment I can climb every V3 in the gym but haven't sent any V4s. (There aren't many anyhow)

I guess my question is what gym (not rock gym) training can I do? I don't want to get jacked and have too much muscle weighing me down, but I'm a very tall and skinny guy at the moment. What are some benchmarks that I should try to reach?

Thanks in advance!
-Steve

Back to your question. Its hard to answer without seeing you climb, but I know I had a lot of trouble with this particular "wall". What fixed it for me was focusing a lot more on my body position. That fits into the technique category, but im talking a little more specific. Make sure your positioning your body in such a way that you are making the BEST use out of every hold your hanging on. Essentially, figure out the best way to grab every hold on the route and then position your body so thats the way youre grabbing them.

Also, I didnt realize the value of projecting until Id been climbing for a while. Dont try a v4 once or twice then get frustrated and move on. Just pick one and work it til you do it. do each individual move until they feel good, then link it up.


rockclimber1


Oct 26, 2011, 5:46 AM
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Re: [rdrunner2010] Getting past the V3 wall with gym training? [In reply to]
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I would agree with the others who suggested to focus on technique. Worry about strength training later. One thing that will help build strength on the wall while working technique at the same time is to get on stuff you can't do. Project a few climbs and embrace the fact that you fall on every other move. Also, if it's steeper stuff you're having issues with, work your core. It's always a good idea to do some core work anyways.


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