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Strange finger problems
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herites


Oct 21, 2011, 2:40 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2011
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Strange finger problems
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Hi!

I've got a strange problem with my fingers. Sometimes, after finishing a climb (usually boulders) I just can't open them. They stuck in a half-crimp position, all of them on both hands and it feels I'll tear something if I forcefully try to open them. It's a bit similar to a muscle cramp. It also hurts like hell. The whole thing disappears kinda slow, around 5 minutes to fully "heal". After that it I can climb again like nothing happened. It usually happens on pockets on overhangs, where the edge of the pockets pushes into my fingers, I suspect something nerve related. It never happens on real rock. Maybe it has something to do with my recent weight gain, my fingers doesnt like my new heavy ass. They arent hurting apart from that, there's no stiffness, swelling, nothing, just that strange pain.


onceahardman


Oct 21, 2011, 4:08 PM
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Re: [herites] Strange finger problems [In reply to]
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In reply to:
It never happens on real rock.

If you climb on rock, you have no problem.

What's the problem, again?


herites


Aug 11, 2012, 4:27 PM
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Re: [onceahardman] Strange finger problems [In reply to]
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Bump, the issue is still there, maybe there'll be an actual answer this time. Got it worse btw, not it happens on every hold, from the biggest jugs to the tiniest crimps, still only in the gym.


LineoFire


Aug 11, 2012, 8:47 PM
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Re: [herites] Strange finger problems [In reply to]
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Over use and under strengthened. Tendon/pulley issues is what it sounds like to me. Focus on tendon strengthening by doing open handed dead hangs on progressively smaller holds. Then work up to finger ups and then pull ups. Use pulling on plastic as a training mechanism not a full time pursuit. Plastic wrecks your tendons when over used.

Your issue sounds like early stages of tendonitis that is radiating from your upper arm. The shoulder is the trunk of a larger and ever increasingly intricate tree that ends in your fingers. Make a point to work your pushing muscles as well as your pulling muscles.


onceahardman


Aug 13, 2012, 2:48 PM
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Re: [herites] Strange finger problems [In reply to]
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herites, I really did supply an answer, it's just a bit nuanced, or maybe "pithy".

I've been doing this a long time, so I guess things which are really obvious to me, seem as though they should be obvious to others. That's my fault, and I'm sorry for that.

You are putting tensile forces on your connective tissue which are in excess of the tensile strength of the material. Your connective tissue is tearing as a result. You can keep the repetitive nature of these forces down by climbing on real rock, which offers much more variety that the constant tiny-to-small face holds requiring large force per unit cross sectional area.

The connective tissue does eventually heal, sometimes well, sometimes not. In the meantime, the partially torn connective tissue (ligament, capsule, tendon, pulley, etc) will reduce stability of your finger joints, resulting in excess joint play and resulting arthritis.. (=inflammation of joint)

Take it from an old arthritic guy, take care of your connective tissue. Not everyone has the same strength/stiffness of connective tissue, nor the same capacity of healing.



(This post was edited by onceahardman on Aug 13, 2012, 2:56 PM)


herites


Aug 13, 2012, 2:52 PM
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Re: [onceahardman] Strange finger problems [In reply to]
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Thanks, thats a really good answer finally, though it saddens me a bit. I haven't been to gym since April, ventured there some time ago and the issue got worse. Really worse. My fingers started to hurt soon after the warmup climbs. Guess no more gym climbing for me, time to take up ice for the cold months (was planning on it anyway)


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