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gblauer
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Oct 29, 2011, 1:56 AM
Post #801 of 1159
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We are looking at a forecast of 12" of snow tomorrow (Saturday, 10/29). I don't think we will be climbing at the gunks this weekend!
Ready for ice?
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Gmburns2000
Oct 29, 2011, 1:03 PM
Post #802 of 1159
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gblauer wrote: We are looking at a forecast of 12" of snow tomorrow (Saturday, 10/29). I don't think we will be climbing at the gunks this weekend! Ready for ice?
God I´m glad I´m south of the border...wayyyyyyyy south. 
Been getting out every weekend but lack of regular internet access and an incredibly busy teaching schedule have kept me lax on my reporting. I might be able to get some stuff done this weekend.
Enjoy the snow. Honestly, I kind of miss the first one of the season.
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jakedatc
Oct 29, 2011, 4:55 PM
Post #803 of 1159
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Guess i'll throw in a better late than never post from a few weekends ago.
Met up with SusannaDent from on here she doesn't lead but belays nice and will follow most of what i'd lead.
Sun: got out there quick as we could to avoid some crowds. Grabbed Frogshead for a warmup. Moved over and did P1 of Madamn G's up to P2 of Columbia ( did p1 a few weeks before that and i'm good not doing that again) P2 was tough route finding for me. I should learn to write down descriptions of wandery routes. I guess i did something close enough and rapped off MGs. Wanted to do Ants line or Bonnies but they were wet so we went back a bit and did Directissima. I've always been nervous about the bottom slabby parts but it was a good friction a day and my feet felt solid. I used a lot of my small gear at the bottom so I stopped before the traverse and split it in to 3 pitches up to the High E ledge. Traverse felt good, the big reach felt further than when i had followed it but the gear is good and easy to place. We wanted to go into town so we called it a day a bit early.
Sun: Goals were Ants line, bonnies and Snookies. Warmed up on Bloody Bush. Hadn't done P2 and that was definitely interesting. Felt good and went directly to Snookys. Luckily I can always fall back on microcrimping because i hung out on a half pad crystal for a while at the crux getting gear and figuring out the feet. Decided to skip P2 and went to do Ant's line. I've done it a few times so I led up Sleepwalk and brough Susana up. she wanted to see beta for Ants line crux so she rapped off then I had her lower me down to the roof. People on Bonnies were at the ledge so i headed up. It was still wet and the crack below the roof was definitely more heady than usual. I wanted to look at Direct so i led up there and took a look. she did not think she had the arms left to do it so i down climbed and did the traverse. Was really dark but we eventually found the Ursula rap. barely reaches the ledge with 60m!
Was pscyhed to tick off a few more routes I had wanted to do. hoping the snow will melt before next weekend and I can get back up one more time this year.
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rangerrob
Oct 29, 2011, 5:44 PM
Post #804 of 1159
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people who think the season is over after October are missing some of the best climbing days the Gunks season has to offer. Crisp sending temps, warm sunshine with no leaves, and less crowds.
Gail, glad to hear you went bookless out at Bonticou. There are some really great moderate and well protected lines out there. Keep going back.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 29, 2011, 11:06 PM
Post #805 of 1159
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jakedatc wrote: I should learn to write down descriptions of wandery routes.
Jake - head into Rock and Snow and get them to drill a hole through the book with a cord going through it. They'll do it for free and it makes it easier to carry the book.
Or, just take a photo of the page and zoom in on your camera.
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Dip
Oct 29, 2011, 11:26 PM
Post #806 of 1159
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Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: I should learn to write down descriptions of wandery routes. Jake - head into Rock and Snow and get them to drill a hole through the book with a cord going through it. They'll do it for free and it makes it easier to carry the book. Or, just take a photo of the page and zoom in on your camera.
I have a good story from the trip to new hampshire a couple weeks ago but it's long. Like, really long. I'm going to try to make a condensed version after i'm done with the original and throw it up here, maybe next week sometime.
edited because i can never get it right the first time...
(This post was edited by Dip on Oct 29, 2011, 11:27 PM)
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jakedatc
Oct 30, 2011, 12:20 AM
Post #807 of 1159
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Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: I should learn to write down descriptions of wandery routes. Jake - head into Rock and Snow and get them to drill a hole through the book with a cord going through it. They'll do it for free and it makes it easier to carry the book. Or, just take a photo of the page and zoom in on your camera.
I already drilled it myself. I don't want to carry the whole book up the rock though. If i remember to throw a small notepad in my bag then I can jot down the main details and be fine.
maybe for a few routes i'll take pictures and print but spur of the moment stuff i can just take a few notes.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 30, 2011, 11:03 AM
Post #808 of 1159
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jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: I should learn to write down descriptions of wandery routes. Jake - head into Rock and Snow and get them to drill a hole through the book with a cord going through it. They'll do it for free and it makes it easier to carry the book. Or, just take a photo of the page and zoom in on your camera. I already drilled it myself. I don't want to carry the whole book up the rock though. If i remember to throw a small notepad in my bag then I can jot down the main details and be fine. maybe for a few routes i'll take pictures and print but spur of the moment stuff i can just take a few notes.
Do you take the camera up? Just take a photo and and zoom in on your camera (when viewing the photo on the camera). That's what I do with longer routes. Easier than writing it down.
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jakedatc
Oct 30, 2011, 12:30 PM
Post #809 of 1159
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Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: I should learn to write down descriptions of wandery routes. Jake - head into Rock and Snow and get them to drill a hole through the book with a cord going through it. They'll do it for free and it makes it easier to carry the book. Or, just take a photo of the page and zoom in on your camera. I already drilled it myself. I don't want to carry the whole book up the rock though. If i remember to throw a small notepad in my bag then I can jot down the main details and be fine. maybe for a few routes i'll take pictures and print but spur of the moment stuff i can just take a few notes. Do you take the camera up? Just take a photo and and zoom in on your camera (when viewing the photo on the camera). That's what I do with longer routes. Easier than writing it down.
usually not. i go climbing to climb not to take pics for the most part.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 30, 2011, 2:16 PM
Post #810 of 1159
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jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: I should learn to write down descriptions of wandery routes. Jake - head into Rock and Snow and get them to drill a hole through the book with a cord going through it. They'll do it for free and it makes it easier to carry the book. Or, just take a photo of the page and zoom in on your camera. I already drilled it myself. I don't want to carry the whole book up the rock though. If i remember to throw a small notepad in my bag then I can jot down the main details and be fine. maybe for a few routes i'll take pictures and print but spur of the moment stuff i can just take a few notes. Do you take the camera up? Just take a photo and and zoom in on your camera (when viewing the photo on the camera). That's what I do with longer routes. Easier than writing it down. usually not. i go climbing to climb not to take pics for the most part.
Ah, well, OK. It's a tool, that's all.
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jakedatc
Oct 30, 2011, 2:34 PM
Post #811 of 1159
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Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: I should learn to write down descriptions of wandery routes. Jake - head into Rock and Snow and get them to drill a hole through the book with a cord going through it. They'll do it for free and it makes it easier to carry the book. Or, just take a photo of the page and zoom in on your camera. I already drilled it myself. I don't want to carry the whole book up the rock though. If i remember to throw a small notepad in my bag then I can jot down the main details and be fine. maybe for a few routes i'll take pictures and print but spur of the moment stuff i can just take a few notes. Do you take the camera up? Just take a photo and and zoom in on your camera (when viewing the photo on the camera). That's what I do with longer routes. Easier than writing it down. usually not. i go climbing to climb not to take pics for the most part. Ah, well, OK. It's a tool, that's all.
yea.. i do it backpacking but not for climbing. my camera is not small enough or cheap enough to bring up on the rock with me.
for a token photo op route i'll take it.. like when i finally get around to doing CCK and Dangler. otherwise I want my belayer uhh.. belaying.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 30, 2011, 2:45 PM
Post #812 of 1159
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jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: I should learn to write down descriptions of wandery routes. Jake - head into Rock and Snow and get them to drill a hole through the book with a cord going through it. They'll do it for free and it makes it easier to carry the book. Or, just take a photo of the page and zoom in on your camera. I already drilled it myself. I don't want to carry the whole book up the rock though. If i remember to throw a small notepad in my bag then I can jot down the main details and be fine. maybe for a few routes i'll take pictures and print but spur of the moment stuff i can just take a few notes. Do you take the camera up? Just take a photo and and zoom in on your camera (when viewing the photo on the camera). That's what I do with longer routes. Easier than writing it down. usually not. i go climbing to climb not to take pics for the most part. Ah, well, OK. It's a tool, that's all. yea.. i do it backpacking but not for climbing. my camera is not small enough or cheap enough to bring up on the rock with me. for a token photo op route i'll take it.. like when i finally get around to doing CCK and Dangler. otherwise I want my belayer uhh.. belaying.
belaying is overrated.
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jakedatc
Oct 30, 2011, 2:48 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: I should learn to write down descriptions of wandery routes. Jake - head into Rock and Snow and get them to drill a hole through the book with a cord going through it. They'll do it for free and it makes it easier to carry the book. Or, just take a photo of the page and zoom in on your camera. I already drilled it myself. I don't want to carry the whole book up the rock though. If i remember to throw a small notepad in my bag then I can jot down the main details and be fine. maybe for a few routes i'll take pictures and print but spur of the moment stuff i can just take a few notes. Do you take the camera up? Just take a photo and and zoom in on your camera (when viewing the photo on the camera). That's what I do with longer routes. Easier than writing it down. usually not. i go climbing to climb not to take pics for the most part. Ah, well, OK. It's a tool, that's all. yea.. i do it backpacking but not for climbing. my camera is not small enough or cheap enough to bring up on the rock with me. for a token photo op route i'll take it.. like when i finally get around to doing CCK and Dangler. otherwise I want my belayer uhh.. belaying. belaying is overrated.
you fall too much to be saying that sorta thing ;)
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Gmburns2000
Oct 30, 2011, 8:19 PM
Post #814 of 1159
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jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jakedatc wrote: I should learn to write down descriptions of wandery routes. Jake - head into Rock and Snow and get them to drill a hole through the book with a cord going through it. They'll do it for free and it makes it easier to carry the book. Or, just take a photo of the page and zoom in on your camera. I already drilled it myself. I don't want to carry the whole book up the rock though. If i remember to throw a small notepad in my bag then I can jot down the main details and be fine. maybe for a few routes i'll take pictures and print but spur of the moment stuff i can just take a few notes. Do you take the camera up? Just take a photo and and zoom in on your camera (when viewing the photo on the camera). That's what I do with longer routes. Easier than writing it down. usually not. i go climbing to climb not to take pics for the most part. Ah, well, OK. It's a tool, that's all. yea.. i do it backpacking but not for climbing. my camera is not small enough or cheap enough to bring up on the rock with me. for a token photo op route i'll take it.. like when i finally get around to doing CCK and Dangler. otherwise I want my belayer uhh.. belaying. belaying is overrated. you fall too much to be saying that sorta thing ;)
yeah, that's true.
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dagibbs
Oct 30, 2011, 11:32 PM
Post #815 of 1159
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It is starting to get pretty late in the season for climbing up here in Ottawa (Ontario, Canada). With the overnight lows generally below freezing, the rock tends towards cold, and cold rock really sucks the heat out of your hands. But, the high today was supposed to be around 7C (45F) and sunny -- so the sun would (hopefully) warm the rock. Sadly, it wasn't so sunny, so the rock was chilly all day.
It is a lot harder to pull moves with confidence when your fingers are numb enough that you can't actually feel the edge they're on very well. So, we spent the day mostly top-roping (I led on easy sport route) at a local crag (Calabogie) that has easy top-of-cliff access.
I am hoping to get another day or two this year, and then it will be no more outdoor climbing until I make it to EPC in early March.
(This post was edited by dagibbs on Oct 31, 2011, 2:29 AM)
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gblauer
Moderator
Oct 31, 2011, 2:25 AM
Post #816 of 1159
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Mitch and I are headed to Potrero 11/5/11 for 12 days. Trip report to follow.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 31, 2011, 10:44 AM
Post #817 of 1159
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gblauer wrote: Mitch and I are headed to Potrero 11/5/11 for 12 days. Trip report to follow.
Woooooo!!!!
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rangerrob
Oct 31, 2011, 4:57 PM
Post #818 of 1159
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In lieu of guidebook, go up. If climbing gets too hard, come down. I know it sounds facetious, but I'm kinda being serious.
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jakedatc
Oct 31, 2011, 7:08 PM
Post #819 of 1159
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rangerrob wrote: In lieu of guidebook, go up. If climbing gets too hard, come down. I know it sounds facetious, but I'm kinda being serious.
whatever rob.. I'd prefer to follow the actual route and if a few notes will help me stay on track i'll do it.
please continue to be a douche though.. that's great.
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gblauer
Moderator
Nov 4, 2011, 8:04 PM
Post #820 of 1159
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12 more hours until we depart for El Potrero Chico. TR to follow.
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Gmburns2000
Nov 4, 2011, 11:37 PM
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gblauer wrote: 12 more hours until we depart for El Potrero Chico. TR to follow.
[living vicariously through you] Woooo!!!!! [still vicarious]
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darkgift06
Nov 7, 2011, 7:58 PM
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got out on sat for some bouldering in a new area... sweet problems which deserve some video.
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jakedatc
Nov 9, 2011, 7:23 AM
Post #823 of 1159
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Gunks ticklist: Lead: Te Dum P1, Birdland P1, Eastertime Too , Andrew P1, Son of a bitchy virgin P1, Absurdland
Follow, Te dum p2, Alphonse, Birdland P2, As the Cliff turns, Son of a bitchy virgin P2, Traverse of the Clods P1/2, Dry heaves p1
Highlights.. Birdland, eastertime too and absurdland woo! Following TotC also an interesting time.. Thought Absurdland was Wisecrack and am kinda happy i didn't know and was way more relaxed than I would have been.(partner knew but didn't know that i didn't know)
lowilghts. tried following Dry Heaves in the dark by headlamp... undercling, shitty feet, dark = foot popping and catching wrist between rope and cam sling/biner while falling. OW! hauled back up A0'd the move and finished it up but gadammn that route sucks haha
stuck on Rt84 in CT for 45mins due to an accident ahead of us.. no bueno.
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rangerrob
Nov 10, 2011, 1:43 AM
Post #824 of 1159
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Jake, I have not yet begun to be a douche. My douchiness knows no bounds. However, I dare say, whining about ambulance sirens waking you up in Camp Slime makes you the uncontested King of the douche.
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jakedatc
Nov 10, 2011, 2:34 AM
Post #825 of 1159
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rangerrob wrote: Jake, I have not yet begun to be a douche. My douchiness knows no bounds. However, I dare say, whining about ambulance sirens waking you up in Camp Slime makes you the uncontested King of the douche.
It was not sirens. It was the trucks running for 2+ hours due to gumbies calling 911 because it got dark.
telling someone to go to Millbrook when they want to easy to set up top ropes however... great beta there Chief.
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