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mooreoutdoors88
Nov 2, 2011, 5:13 AM
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Looking at bringing a group of new climbers out to the area in the spring and was wondering if there were many bolted routes around or if it was mostly trad...please let me know!!
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rtwilli4
Nov 2, 2011, 5:33 AM
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I'm not a local but I believe that this area is referring to a wildlife refuge with a lot of granite? If so, then the routes are mostly trad, with some bolted lines here and there. If it's the area I'm thinking of, it's made up of mostly granite domes, so it would make sense that there are a lot of traditionally protected routes with some harder sport routes around and likely some easy bolted slab as well. My guess is that anything that was done back in the day will feel a bit run out and stiff compared to anything that has been FAed in the last 15 or 20 years.
Sorry, I've never been there, but in my experience, most smallish granite dome climbing areas are similar to what I described above.
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kovacs69
Nov 2, 2011, 2:30 PM
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mooreoutdoors88 wrote: Looking at bringing a group of new climbers out to the area in the spring and was wondering if there were many bolted routes around or if it was mostly trad...please let me know!!
Some of it is bolted...some isn't. It is typical Oklahoma bolting where you will feel the first bolt is way too high and the gap between the bolts is too far. Many routes will be run-out routes with high potential for disaster if you fall. People have died there.
It is a good place to go if you know your way around but can be hell if you don't. I have been up there many times and still get turned around every now and then. Its a big area with lots of space between climbing walls.
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redonkulus
Nov 2, 2011, 2:50 PM
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There's a good amount of bolted routes there, they are just spread out. Echo Dome is probably your best bet, it has like 4 good bolted slab routes from 5.7-5.9 all in a row. They aren't very runout, and are lots of fun. Pick up a guidebook, it'll make finding the climbing oh so much easier. Mount Scott also has a few good bolted routes, and some routes that you can easily set up a toprope on, all in the 5.4-5.8 range.
If you want, you can let me know when you'll be out there, shoot me a PM and if perchance I'm in the area, I can point you in the right direction.
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mooreoutdoors88
Nov 2, 2011, 6:17 PM
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Hey, thanks a ton! That would be uber helpful and I will let you know for sure if and when we head that way!!
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redonkulus
Nov 2, 2011, 8:21 PM
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No problemo.
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jolery
Nov 7, 2011, 5:46 PM
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+1 on the guidebook - I've only gone there to climb trad, but the only bolted routes I've seen there are runout death routes
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