So regardless of diet and activity, anybody can fully carb load in 24 hours?. Cool.

Not regardless of diet and exercise. But yes, glycogen stores can be brought back to normal levels in 24 hours.

F**k training. Just climb.

He did not that it was in the case of a bad diet.


Meh, while the most enjoyable thing to do would be to just go climbing all the time, that's really not a realistic situation for everybody.

I finish class at 5 every day. It is already dark. There is no way I can go climbing, even if it wasn't raining (almost always is). I can't take the whole weekend off, either, I have simulations I gotta write code for.

So instead of climbing once a week and only being able to do okay-ish routes, I train 3 times a week so that I can make the most out of that one day (or sometimes if I am ahead with my code, 2 days) a week that I can actually get out.

So no, don't F**k training.

He did note that it was in the case of a bad diet.


Meh, while the most enjoyable thing to do would be to just go climbing all the time, that's really not a realistic situation for everybody.

I finish class at 5 every day. It is already dark. There is no way I can go climbing, even if it wasn't raining (almost always is). I can't take the whole weekend off, either, I have simulations I gotta write code for.

So instead of climbing once a week and only being able to do okay-ish routes, I train 3 times a week so that I can make the most out of that one day (or sometimes if I am ahead with my code, 2 days) a week that I can actually get out.

So no, don't F**k training.


Edit: to fix spelling.

I have a full time job and dont get off til 5 myself. I boulder/lead 3-4 times a week. Climbing indoors isnt trianing, its just climbing on plastic. Real training (campus board pyramids, hang board workouts etc) is training.............

So yes f**k training, just climb.

I have a full time job and dont get off til 5 myself. I boulder/lead 3-4 times a week. Climbing indoors isnt trianing, its just climbing on plastic. Real training (campus board pyramids, hang board workouts etc) is training.............

So yes f**k training, just climb.

Can't it be both, though? I mean, it's training BY climbing, right? So not rock climbing properly speaking, but a lot of the same movements, which you would take full joy in outside, you can still relish indoors. I guess this is just my perspective as somebody who's considering getting a climbing gym membership after strenuously AVOIDING any other kind of gym membership or regimented workout routine. I just like to go and play at the climbing gym, and I know it will translate into more fun outdoors, when I'm able to send harder.

Maybe so, though maybe it depends the level at which you're climbing. I'm pretty new at it, so I know any gym climbing > no climbing. I suppose it also depends how serious and goal-oriented you are about it, as Annie (I think) pointed out above. I'm just grateful I can do it at all! I know some friends with physical impairments, etc., or just way below a fitness level that would allow it . . . so yeah, I'm basically about having fun with it, and not putting pressure on myself. And is it really a waste of money if I like what I'm doing? : )

Maybe so, though maybe it depends the level at which you're climbing. I'm pretty new at it, so I know any gym climbing > no climbing. I suppose it also depends how serious and goal-oriented you are about it, as Annie (I think) pointed out above. I'm just grateful I can do it at all! I know some friends with physical impairments, etc., or just way below a fitness level that would allow it . . . so yeah, I'm basically about having fun with it, and not putting pressure on myself. And is it really a waste of money if I like what I'm doing? : )

You have not read the SCC and do not understand real training.

Ive had several different trainers and been on several teams and never once have we done anything but climb routes and work problems. I personally climb with several pros who do the same thing. Those 14 crushers must not understand training either.

Ive had several different trainers and been on several teams and never once have we done anything but climb routes and work problems. I personally climb with several pros who do the same thing. Those 14 crushers must not understand training either.

You can train and never touch a hangboard or campus board. I train and all I do is climb routes and boulder. That is what you don't seem to understand. I bet a lot of your friends are training as well, whether they call it that or not. Do you really think that a guy who comes into a gym and warms up on a few V1-2's and then spends the next 2 hours working a single v6 is the same as the guy who does a pyramid of 8 V1's, 6 V2's, 4 V3's, 2 V4's, and 1-2 V5/6's followed by 30 minutes of traversing? One of those climbers is training, and one is simply pulling on plastic.

There's nothing wrong with selling books that help people get more out of what they love. Since when did profit become such an evil in so many peoples eyes?

All of Doug's strategies have been proven to work. Go to youtube and search Aaron Shamy climbing, this is one of his original students. He was training young guns at my climbing gym when I first started climbing, I can think of at least 3 or 4 he trained that we're climbing 5.13d/14a at a young age after only a few years climbing in most cases.

He has excellent technique and great movement, I saw him at his peak. He's a great teacher and much more thoughtful than most climbers about all the little details.

I've always held him in high esteem and haven't doubted him. I'm not sure why he decided to call one of my established v12's a v8, it would have been nice if he had apologized in some way.

For those of you debating the best way to train with little time, I believe the best way is by building a small wall, only 4 feet wide, overhanging, 8 feet tall is enough. Put campus rungs on it and system board training holds and small footholds. You can train all of the climbing muscles this way head to toe.

Campus rungs for pure power. You can use various symtem holds to train different grips and use the small foot holds and switch up foot positions to train the different muscles groups. You can up/down climb for endurance.

Forgive my ignorance if this is something obvious, but what is the 'rockprodigy' program? Can't seem to find anything conclusive via google.

-Teo

T I'm not sure why he decided to call one of my established v12's a v8, it would have been nice if he had apologized in some way.

I noticed in this thread some of you we're discussing carbo loading etc. I don't claim to know anything about this stuff.

In a recent climbing mag, can't remember which, a nutritionist of sorts was praising this stuff http://pacifichealthlabs.com/

I thought, why not? FYI, I don't know any of these people.

I bought the gel and the during and after drink mixes. I've used it religiously for 2 months now. Compared to whatever I was doing in the past I can say it definately has made a difference.

The main difference I've noticed is that I can climb closer to my limit every other day and that I don't have to take as much time off due to feeling run down. I just try stuff and see if it's a noticeable inprovement and this stuff is for sure.

Normally I climb every other day and ever couple weeks I have to take two days off because I'm run down. Every four months I take off 2 weeks fyi, just to heal tendons. Now, I never feel like I need the two days rests and can climb harder longer.

Ya, I think there are two different types, one is more endurance oriented and one more anaerobic like climbing.

All their products are just dextrose(glucose) and whey protein.