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nick97
Nov 13, 2011, 10:58 PM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2011
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Im a beginner climber and really love to climb. Ive been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to build my own woody in my garage. I climb and set routes on it pretty much like 2-3 times a week and then visit the climbing gym every weekend. Ive been climbing for about 5 months and Im stuck on a V3 and 5.10a plateau. I want to start climbing harder things but every time i try I just cant seem to get it. I think if I could set some harder routes on my woody I could get better but I dont have any skill in setting. Maybe I should use a hangboard? Any help is really appreciated. -Nick
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Player
Nov 14, 2011, 1:27 AM
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Registered: Jul 30, 2011
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Maybe you can go to your gym and talk to them about setting or take a picture of some of their harder routes and replicate in your garage.
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lena_chita
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Nov 14, 2011, 1:38 AM
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Being inexperienced and new, it would be very hard to set routes that are just beyond your current level, and address your weaknesses. It is common for people to set routes that are all the same style, with the same moves/holds over and over. Have you met people/made friends at the gym? Is there a chance that you could invite some more experienced people over to your house one afternoon for a route-setting party? Pizza and beer would be motivation enough, it isn't that much of a trouble, and it could be fun. Is there a reason why you only go to the gym on a weekend? (too far to drive?) If there is any chance that you could go climbing at the gym more often, IMO it would be more productive, because even the best home woody probably doesn't have as much variety or angles, holds, etc., as a good gym would have. And, in a gym you have an added benefit of watching other people climb and being able get input from others and to modify what you are doing based on what you see other climbers do. But a bigger issue is that you need a good evaluation of what your strengths and weaknesses are, and a good plan to work systematically on the weaknesses. Self-Coached Climber book is a very good resource for anybody who is trying to get better. I suggest that yuo get it soon.
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nick97
Nov 14, 2011, 2:10 AM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2011
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Ya getting some people over to help set routes is a good idea. And I'll try to get that book, do you have any advice on using a hangboard?
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Diddii
Nov 14, 2011, 4:26 PM
Post #5 of 13
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Registered: Aug 13, 2011
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i've been climbing for 2,5 months right now and done two v4 indoor bouldering routes, what really helped me get past v3 was getting help from more experienced climbers with these boulder problems (where to place your feet and how to turn you body in what direction etc.) I focused more on climbing alot of v2 and v3 routes, learn to climb boulder problem and then climb them again and again until i could climb them more efficiently and relaxed with every move.
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lithiummetalman
Nov 14, 2011, 5:49 PM
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Registered: Feb 28, 2004
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-Skip the hangboard for now -Make some climbing friends -Get outside as soon as possible -Climb as many practices (sport, trad, bouldering, etc) if possible to see what you like. -Climb some more -Stretch and be sure to exercise muscle groups not used by climbing -Stay hydrated, sleep well, eat well. -Rinse and Repeat -Enjoy yourself!
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jae8908
Nov 14, 2011, 8:54 PM
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Registered: May 15, 2011
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lena_chita wrote: Being inexperienced and new, it would be very hard to set routes that are just beyond your current level, and address your weaknesses. It is common for people to set routes that are all the same style, with the same moves/holds over and over. Have you met people/made friends at the gym? Is there a chance that you could invite some more experienced people over to your house one afternoon for a route-setting party? Pizza and beer would be motivation enough, it isn't that much of a trouble, and it could be fun. Is there a reason why you only go to the gym on a weekend? (too far to drive?) If there is any chance that you could go climbing at the gym more often, IMO it would be more productive, because even the best home woody probably doesn't have as much variety or angles, holds, etc., as a good gym would have. And, in a gym you have an added benefit of watching other people climb and being able get input from others and to modify what you are doing based on what you see other climbers do. But a bigger issue is that you need a good evaluation of what your strengths and weaknesses are, and a good plan to work systematically on the weaknesses. Self-Coached Climber book is a very good resource for anybody who is trying to get better. I suggest that yuo get it soon. especially the pizza and beer part
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hbusch
Nov 14, 2011, 10:10 PM
Post #8 of 13
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Registered: Apr 10, 2003
Posts: 39
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Hi, lithiummetalman has got it all. Climbing is the key. Nothing else. Do it safe. AgeBee |
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tH1e-swiN1e
Nov 14, 2011, 11:12 PM
Post #9 of 13
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Registered: Jun 28, 2011
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10a is like V0. Get some friends over and set your brains out.
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rossross
Nov 22, 2011, 4:55 PM
Post #11 of 13
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Registered: Sep 29, 2007
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nick97 wrote: Im a beginner climber and really love to climb. Ive been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to build my own woody in my garage. I climb and set routes on it pretty much like 2-3 times a week and then visit the climbing gym every weekend. Ive been climbing for about 5 months and Im stuck on a V3 and 5.10a plateau. I want to start climbing harder things but every time i try I just cant seem to get it. I think if I could set some harder routes on my woody I could get better but I dont have any skill in setting. Maybe I should use a hangboard? Any help is really appreciated. -Nick I would not consider this a plateau. You have only been climbing for 5 months, not really long enough to hit a true plateau IMO. Yes you may have progressed from 5.6 - 5.10 quickly and are at 10a longer then any grade but that does not necessarily a plateau make. Spend most of your time repeating things just below your max as opposed to trying a personal best every time you climb. It takes time for your fingers to gain the required strength to progress. Aim for volume in most of your workouts and you will be surprised how much you will progress. Climb long enough and you will come to a point where it will take 1 year to progress one letter or V grade.
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goldeneagle
Dec 24, 2011, 6:11 PM
Post #12 of 13
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Registered: May 5, 2011
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In reply to: Skip the hangboard for now -Make some climbing friends -Get outside as soon as possible -Climb as many practices (sport, trad, bouldering, etc) if possible to see what you like. -Climb some more -Stretch and be sure to exercise muscle groups not used by climbing -Stay hydrated, sleep well, eat well. -Rinse and Repeat -Enjoy yourself! Lithiummetalman got it right. This is everything you need to know! Hangboards are a great way to injure yourself, so wait on that for sure. As everyone else has said, climb more. If your home woody starts to feel a little easy and you think you can do it without injuring yourself, consider using a door frame to do static hangs and pull ups. It can be really helpful, just make sure your door frame and your body can handle it.
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nick97
Dec 25, 2011, 10:17 PM
Post #13 of 13
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Registered: Aug 12, 2011
Posts: 26
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Thanks, I have been using my bathroom doorframe for a while now. I can deadhang and do pull ups, my record is 8. All your help is really appreciated!
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