Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners:
One locker or two O&O ovals?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Beginners

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All


t.e.d


Nov 17, 2011, 12:05 PM
Post #1 of 72 (6078 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 16, 2011
Posts: 21

One locker or two O&O ovals?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

I have a pre-made TR anchor made from an extension limited sling with lockers for the bolts. My question, is would you feel better with a master point of 1 locking biner or two opposite and opposed ovals? I have both and just want a consensus.

Cheers.


redonkulus


Nov 17, 2011, 1:06 PM
Post #2 of 72 (6038 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 2, 2010
Posts: 216

Re: [t.e.d] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well I'd feel better with 2 O&O lockers. Or 10 lockers. But that's dumb. Why not just toss on the locker and one opposite and opposed oval, if you've already got them?


USnavy


Nov 17, 2011, 1:22 PM
Post #3 of 72 (6026 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 2664

Re: [t.e.d] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

I would be fine with either.


abrock5


Nov 17, 2011, 1:32 PM
Post #4 of 72 (6020 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2011
Posts: 24

Re: [USnavy] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

^^^ this. I would be fine with both, but I typically use a single locker.


csproul


Nov 17, 2011, 3:13 PM
Post #5 of 72 (5988 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769

Re: [abrock5] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (5 ratings)  
Can't Post

abrock5 wrote:
^^^ this. I would be fine with both, but I typically use a single locker.
This has come up many times here, there are several threads talking about the same thing. I disagree with you, and here is why: the master point for a TR is out of sight and cannot be tended. If you use a single locker and it comes unlocked (or was never locked) you are now top-roping on a single carabiner, and since it is out of sight, you cannot correct it. Not acceptable IMO. Lockers can and do come unlocked, I have personally seen it. Others will argue that they are ok with this possibility, or that if you orient the biner correctly it will not come unscrewed, but my preference is for two biners at a TR master-point, locking or not.


t.e.d


Nov 17, 2011, 3:41 PM
Post #6 of 72 (5977 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 16, 2011
Posts: 21

Re: [csproul] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

csproul wrote:
abrock5 wrote:
^^^ this. I would be fine with both, but I typically use a single locker.
This has come up many times here, there are several threads talking about the same thing. I disagree with you, and here is why: the master point for a TR is out of sight and cannot be tended. If you use a single locker and it comes unlocked (or was never locked) you are now top-roping on a single carabiner, and since it is out of sight, you cannot correct it. Not acceptable IMO. Lockers can and do come unlocked, I have personally seen it. Others will argue that they are ok with this possibility, or that if you orient the biner correctly it will not come unscrewed, but my preference is for two biners at a TR master-point, locking or not.

Did a search, but didn't find anything addressing this particular issue.
If it's only going to be a couple people TRing after me, I'll just leave draws, if I have two left over, but if it's a popular route with lots of beginners taking turns on it, I don't want the wear on my draws. I think I'll go with the ovals now.

Thanks again for the input.


rangerrob


Nov 17, 2011, 3:56 PM
Post #7 of 72 (5969 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 7, 2003
Posts: 641

Re: [t.e.d] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

I would prefer the two non lockers as opposed to the single locker, but not for the screw unlocking reason. Two biners together give a much wider rope bearing surface. When running the rope over it for any length of time, wider is better.

RR


tolman_paul


Nov 17, 2011, 4:26 PM
Post #8 of 72 (5950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 22, 2005
Posts: 385

Re: [rangerrob] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I always use two biners at he master point, if one's a locker, better still. I can't see any advantage to a single biner, and a few potential downsides.


curt


Nov 17, 2011, 5:41 PM
Post #9 of 72 (5924 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18234

Re: [t.e.d] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

t.e.d wrote:
I have a pre-made TR anchor made from an extension limited sling with lockers for the bolts. My question, is would you feel better with a master point of 1 locking biner or two opposite and opposed ovals? I have both and just want a consensus.

Cheers.

Pretty sure you've come to the wrong place...

Curt


Rudmin


Nov 17, 2011, 6:55 PM
Post #10 of 72 (5902 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2009
Posts: 606

Re: [t.e.d] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've noticed that the lightest locking carabiner is still heavier than two of the lighest non-locking carabiners, and two non-lockers are much more handy to have. It has made me rethink how many lockers I carry around. I am not suggesting top roping on two Nanos though.


bearbreeder


Nov 17, 2011, 8:51 PM
Post #11 of 72 (5861 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [t.e.d] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

id rather use 2 opposed ...

if yr worried use yr locker and a non locker opposed as others have mentioned


t.e.d


Nov 17, 2011, 8:58 PM
Post #12 of 72 (5856 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 16, 2011
Posts: 21

Re: [Rudmin] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Rudmin wrote:
I am not suggesting top roping on two Nanos though.

Why not?


qwert


Nov 18, 2011, 1:06 AM
Post #13 of 72 (5821 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 2394

Re: [Rudmin] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Rudmin wrote:
I've noticed that the lightest locking carabiner is still heavier than two of the lighest non-locking carabiners, and two non-lockers are much more handy to have. It has made me rethink how many lockers I carry around. I am not suggesting top roping on two Nanos though.
Are you sure about that?
What is the lightest nonlocker at the moment?
Still the camp nano?
If so: 2 nanos = 2*23g = 46g (assuming camps wheight is correct)
Which is 4g more than both, the Kong argon locker and the Climbing Technology Aerial SG, both of which i have measured at 42g.
So that means instead of two nanos, you could carry one locker and 250 worth of cocaine!

Other than that i have nothing to add to this discussion, other than:

I am going to bet 5$ on 10 pages of discussion and insults and the OP leaving this site after the 2nd page forever.

qwert


LostinMaine


Nov 18, 2011, 3:49 AM
Post #14 of 72 (5805 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 8, 2007
Posts: 539

Re: [t.e.d] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

t.e.d wrote:
I have a pre-made TR anchor made from an extension limited sling with lockers for the bolts.

Why? What does this do for you that two draws will not?

In reply to:
My question, is would you feel better with a master point of 1 locking biner or two opposite and opposed ovals?

Two draws immediately brings the solution to mind.

In reply to:
I have both and just want a consensus.

Curt hit the nail on the head with this one.

In reply to:
Cheers.

Salut!


t.e.d


Nov 18, 2011, 7:52 AM
Post #15 of 72 (5756 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 16, 2011
Posts: 21

Re: [LostinMaine] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm actually on here all the time, I just don't usually post. I knew what I was getting into. Cool

I made the TR anchor to limit wear through my draws as I am very poor and need my gear to last a long time. I also climb with a lot of newbies who look at sites like this all the time and then tell me what I should put at the anchors after setting up their TR. I'm thinking I'll switch to the ovals now. Seems like more people are comfortable with that.

Cheers.


jae8908


Nov 18, 2011, 8:44 AM
Post #16 of 72 (5740 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 15, 2011
Posts: 270

Re: [t.e.d] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I use two opposed kong autolockers when I set up toprope.


shockabuku


Nov 18, 2011, 9:01 AM
Post #17 of 72 (5731 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4867

Re: [t.e.d] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

t.e.d wrote:
I'm actually on here all the time, I just don't usually post. I knew what I was getting into. Cool

I made the TR anchor to limit wear through my draws as I am very poor and need my gear to last a long time. I also climb with a lot of newbies who look at sites like this all the time and then tell me what I should put at the anchors after setting up their TR. I'm thinking I'll switch to the ovals now. Seems like more people are comfortable with that.

Cheers.

That doesn't make a lot of sense. The part of your draws that wears are the biners. The part that wears using your TR anchor is the biners.

What changed?

Even if the dogbones wore on your draws they only cost a couple of bucks each. Two draws is about the same cost as one sewn sling. I don't get it.


lena_chita
Moderator

Nov 18, 2011, 9:45 AM
Post #18 of 72 (5712 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5861

Re: [shockabuku] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

shockabuku wrote:
t.e.d wrote:
I'm actually on here all the time, I just don't usually post. I knew what I was getting into. Cool

I made the TR anchor to limit wear through my draws as I am very poor and need my gear to last a long time. I also climb with a lot of newbies who look at sites like this all the time and then tell me what I should put at the anchors after setting up their TR. I'm thinking I'll switch to the ovals now. Seems like more people are comfortable with that.

Cheers.

That doesn't make a lot of sense. The part of your draws that wears are the biners. The part that wears using your TR anchor is the biners.

What changed?

Even if the dogbones wore on your draws they only cost a couple of bucks each. Two draws is about the same cost as one sewn sling. I don't get it.

You wouldn't.

Read the bolded part. The guy can't even explain to his even-more-n00by-than-him friends why his anchor is or isn't adequate. And you are trying to get some sense out of him?


redlude97


Nov 18, 2011, 10:06 AM
Post #19 of 72 (5706 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990

Re: [lena_chita] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I don't even own any ovals, does that mean I'm going to die????Unsure


moose_droppings


Nov 18, 2011, 10:11 AM
Post #20 of 72 (5702 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3362

Re: [t.e.d] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

t.e.d wrote:
I have a pre-made TR anchor made from an extension limited sling with lockers for the bolts. My question, is would you feel better with a master point of 1 locking biner or two opposite and opposed ovals? I have both and just want a consensus.

Cheers.

Of the 2 options you want opinions on, I'd go with the O&O ovals.


lena_chita
Moderator

Nov 18, 2011, 10:19 AM
Post #21 of 72 (5695 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5861

Re: [redlude97] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

redlude97 wrote:
I don't even own any ovals, does that mean I'm going to die????Unsure

Valar morghulis.


t.e.d


Nov 18, 2011, 10:43 AM
Post #22 of 72 (5685 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 16, 2011
Posts: 21

Re: [lena_chita] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Awesome.
My first condescending reply from Lena. Now, all I need is a grammar correction from Jay and I'll feel all warm and fuzzy about posting here.

Thanks to all who answered my question. Yeah, I'm pretty new to climbing, but I take it very seriously. I'm not going to die doing this, regardless of whether I use 1 locker or 2 ovals, or 2 draws, or any other combination of over-engineered gear for a TR anchor.

Guess I answered my own question.

Cheers.

p.s. I love this forum.Wink


SylviaSmile


Nov 18, 2011, 11:52 AM
Post #23 of 72 (5657 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 3, 2011
Posts: 982

Re: [t.e.d] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

t.e.d wrote:
Awesome.
My first condescending reply from Lena. Now, all I need is a grammar correction from Jay and I'll feel all warm and fuzzy about posting here.

Thanks to all who answered my question. Yeah, I'm pretty new to climbing, but I take it very seriously. I'm not going to die doing this, regardless of whether I use 1 locker or 2 ovals, or 2 draws, or any other combination of over-engineered gear for a TR anchor.

Guess I answered my own question.

Cheers.

p.s. I love this forum.Wink

You're braver than I am. I thought about asking a question about how to make TR anchors but immediately ruled it out. I'll just be told to take a class (which I'm probably going to do anyway), probably with some allusion to the likelihood of my death . . . so my plan was going to be to lay low until I actually get good enough to lead something trad and have some hope of starting a topic that will be met only PARTIALLY with scorn and derision, instead of entirely. ;)

All that said, in the spirit of this forum, is that really all the gear you have? You sure you can't invest in a few draws or more biners? The winter is a good time to shop online for climbing gear, as a lot of sites put it on sale. I've gotten almost all my gear new and on sale.


sp115


Nov 18, 2011, 12:37 PM
Post #24 of 72 (5638 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 515

Re: [t.e.d] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

t.e.d wrote:
Awesome.
My first condescending reply from Lena. Now, all I need is a grammar correction from Jay and I'll feel all warm and fuzzy about posting here.

Thanks to all who answered my question. Yeah, I'm pretty new to climbing, but I take it very seriously. I'm not going to die doing this, regardless of whether I use 1 locker or 2 ovals, or 2 draws, or any other combination of over-engineered gear for a TR anchor.

Guess I answered my own question.

Cheers.

p.s. I love this forum.Wink


Jay was busy, so I thought I might help you out.*

My first condescending reply from Lena, now all I need is a grammar correction from Jay and I'll feel all warm and fuzzy about posting here.









* insert smiley emoticon


(This post was edited by sp115 on Nov 18, 2011, 12:41 PM)


t.e.d


Nov 18, 2011, 12:53 PM
Post #25 of 72 (5628 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 16, 2011
Posts: 21

Re: [sp115] One locker or two O&O ovals? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sp115 wrote:
t.e.d wrote:
Awesome.
My first condescending reply from Lena. Now, all I need is a grammar correction from Jay and I'll feel all warm and fuzzy about posting here.

Thanks to all who answered my question. Yeah, I'm pretty new to climbing, but I take it very seriously. I'm not going to die doing this, regardless of whether I use 1 locker or 2 ovals, or 2 draws, or any other combination of over-engineered gear for a TR anchor.

Guess I answered my own question.

Cheers.

p.s. I love this forum.Wink


Jay was busy, so I thought I might help you out.*

My first condescending reply from Lena, now all I need is a grammar correction from Jay and I'll feel all warm and fuzzy about posting here.









* insert smiley emoticon

I'll take what I can get. Thanks. Smile

First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook