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t.e.d
Nov 17, 2011, 8:05 PM
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I have a pre-made TR anchor made from an extension limited sling with lockers for the bolts. My question, is would you feel better with a master point of 1 locking biner or two opposite and opposed ovals? I have both and just want a consensus.
Cheers.
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redonkulus
Nov 17, 2011, 9:06 PM
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Well I'd feel better with 2 O&O lockers. Or 10 lockers. But that's dumb. Why not just toss on the locker and one opposite and opposed oval, if you've already got them?
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USnavy
Nov 17, 2011, 9:22 PM
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I would be fine with either.
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abrock5
Nov 17, 2011, 9:32 PM
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^^^ this. I would be fine with both, but I typically use a single locker.
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csproul
Nov 17, 2011, 11:13 PM
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abrock5 wrote: ^^^ this. I would be fine with both, but I typically use a single locker.
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t.e.d
Nov 17, 2011, 11:41 PM
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csproul wrote: abrock5 wrote: ^^^ this. I would be fine with both, but I typically use a single locker. This has come up many times here, there are several threads talking about the same thing. I disagree with you, and here is why: the master point for a TR is out of sight and cannot be tended. If you use a single locker and it comes unlocked (or was never locked) you are now top-roping on a single carabiner, and since it is out of sight, you cannot correct it. Not acceptable IMO. Lockers can and do come unlocked, I have personally seen it. Others will argue that they are ok with this possibility, or that if you orient the biner correctly it will not come unscrewed, but my preference is for two biners at a TR master-point, locking or not.
Did a search, but didn't find anything addressing this particular issue.
If it's only going to be a couple people TRing after me, I'll just leave draws, if I have two left over, but if it's a popular route with lots of beginners taking turns on it, I don't want the wear on my draws. I think I'll go with the ovals now.
Thanks again for the input.
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rangerrob
Nov 17, 2011, 11:56 PM
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I would prefer the two non lockers as opposed to the single locker, but not for the screw unlocking reason. Two biners together give a much wider rope bearing surface. When running the rope over it for any length of time, wider is better.
RR
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tolman_paul
Nov 18, 2011, 12:26 AM
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I always use two biners at he master point, if one's a locker, better still. I can't see any advantage to a single biner, and a few potential downsides.
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curt
Nov 18, 2011, 1:41 AM
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t.e.d wrote: I have a pre-made TR anchor made from an extension limited sling with lockers for the bolts. My question, is would you feel better with a master point of 1 locking biner or two opposite and opposed ovals? I have both and just want a consensus. Cheers.
Pretty sure you've come to the wrong place...
Curt
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Rudmin
Nov 18, 2011, 2:55 AM
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I've noticed that the lightest locking carabiner is still heavier than two of the lighest non-locking carabiners, and two non-lockers are much more handy to have. It has made me rethink how many lockers I carry around. I am not suggesting top roping on two Nanos though.
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bearbreeder
Nov 18, 2011, 4:51 AM
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id rather use 2 opposed ...
if yr worried use yr locker and a non locker opposed as others have mentioned
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t.e.d
Nov 18, 2011, 4:58 AM
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Rudmin wrote: I am not suggesting top roping on two Nanos though.
Why not?
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qwert
Nov 18, 2011, 9:06 AM
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Rudmin wrote: I've noticed that the lightest locking carabiner is still heavier than two of the lighest non-locking carabiners, and two non-lockers are much more handy to have. It has made me rethink how many lockers I carry around. I am not suggesting top roping on two Nanos though.
What is the lightest nonlocker at the moment?
Still the camp nano?
If so: 2 nanos = 2*23g = 46g (assuming camps wheight is correct)
Which is 4g more than both, the Kong argon locker and the Climbing Technology Aerial SG, both of which i have measured at 42g.
So that means instead of two nanos, you could carry one locker and 250€ worth of cocaine!
Other than that i have nothing to add to this discussion, other than:
I am going to bet 5$ on 10 pages of discussion and insults and the OP leaving this site after the 2nd page forever.
qwert
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LostinMaine
Nov 18, 2011, 11:49 AM
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t.e.d wrote: I have a pre-made TR anchor made from an extension limited sling with lockers for the bolts.
Why? What does this do for you that two draws will not?
In reply to: My question, is would you feel better with a master point of 1 locking biner or two opposite and opposed ovals?
Two draws immediately brings the solution to mind.
In reply to: I have both and just want a consensus.
Curt hit the nail on the head with this one.
Salut!
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t.e.d
Nov 18, 2011, 3:52 PM
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I'm actually on here all the time, I just don't usually post. I knew what I was getting into. 
I made the TR anchor to limit wear through my draws as I am very poor and need my gear to last a long time. I also climb with a lot of newbies who look at sites like this all the time and then tell me what I should put at the anchors after setting up their TR. I'm thinking I'll switch to the ovals now. Seems like more people are comfortable with that.
Cheers.
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jae8908
Nov 18, 2011, 4:44 PM
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I use two opposed kong autolockers when I set up toprope.
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shockabuku
Nov 18, 2011, 5:01 PM
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t.e.d wrote: I'm actually on here all the time, I just don't usually post. I knew what I was getting into. I made the TR anchor to limit wear through my draws as I am very poor and need my gear to last a long time. I also climb with a lot of newbies who look at sites like this all the time and then tell me what I should put at the anchors after setting up their TR. I'm thinking I'll switch to the ovals now. Seems like more people are comfortable with that. Cheers.
That doesn't make a lot of sense. The part of your draws that wears are the biners. The part that wears using your TR anchor is the biners.
What changed?
Even if the dogbones wore on your draws they only cost a couple of bucks each. Two draws is about the same cost as one sewn sling. I don't get it.
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lena_chita
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Nov 18, 2011, 5:45 PM
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shockabuku wrote: t.e.d wrote: I'm actually on here all the time, I just don't usually post. I knew what I was getting into. I made the TR anchor to limit wear through my draws as I am very poor and need my gear to last a long time. I also climb with a lot of newbies who look at sites like this all the time and then tell me what I should put at the anchors after setting up their TR. I'm thinking I'll switch to the ovals now. Seems like more people are comfortable with that. Cheers. That doesn't make a lot of sense. The part of your draws that wears are the biners. The part that wears using your TR anchor is the biners. What changed? Even if the dogbones wore on your draws they only cost a couple of bucks each. Two draws is about the same cost as one sewn sling. I don't get it.
You wouldn't.
Read the bolded part. The guy can't even explain to his even-more-n00by-than-him friends why his anchor is or isn't adequate. And you are trying to get some sense out of him?
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redlude97
Nov 18, 2011, 6:06 PM
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I don't even own any ovals, does that mean I'm going to die????
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moose_droppings
Nov 18, 2011, 6:11 PM
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t.e.d wrote: I have a pre-made TR anchor made from an extension limited sling with lockers for the bolts. My question, is would you feel better with a master point of 1 locking biner or two opposite and opposed ovals? I have both and just want a consensus. Cheers.
Of the 2 options you want opinions on, I'd go with the O&O ovals.
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t.e.d
Nov 18, 2011, 6:43 PM
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Awesome.
My first condescending reply from Lena. Now, all I need is a grammar correction from Jay and I'll feel all warm and fuzzy about posting here.
Thanks to all who answered my question. Yeah, I'm pretty new to climbing, but I take it very seriously. I'm not going to die doing this, regardless of whether I use 1 locker or 2 ovals, or 2 draws, or any other combination of over-engineered gear for a TR anchor.
Guess I answered my own question.
Cheers.
p.s. I love this forum.
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SylviaSmile
Nov 18, 2011, 7:52 PM
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t.e.d wrote: Awesome. My first condescending reply from Lena. Now, all I need is a grammar correction from Jay and I'll feel all warm and fuzzy about posting here. Thanks to all who answered my question. Yeah, I'm pretty new to climbing, but I take it very seriously. I'm not going to die doing this, regardless of whether I use 1 locker or 2 ovals, or 2 draws, or any other combination of over-engineered gear for a TR anchor. Guess I answered my own question. Cheers. p.s. I love this forum.
You're braver than I am. I thought about asking a question about how to make TR anchors but immediately ruled it out. I'll just be told to take a class (which I'm probably going to do anyway), probably with some allusion to the likelihood of my death . . . so my plan was going to be to lay low until I actually get good enough to lead something trad and have some hope of starting a topic that will be met only PARTIALLY with scorn and derision, instead of entirely. ;)
All that said, in the spirit of this forum, is that really all the gear you have? You sure you can't invest in a few draws or more biners? The winter is a good time to shop online for climbing gear, as a lot of sites put it on sale. I've gotten almost all my gear new and on sale.
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sp115
Nov 18, 2011, 8:37 PM
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t.e.d wrote: Awesome. My first condescending reply from Lena. Now, all I need is a grammar correction from Jay and I'll feel all warm and fuzzy about posting here. Thanks to all who answered my question. Yeah, I'm pretty new to climbing, but I take it very seriously. I'm not going to die doing this, regardless of whether I use 1 locker or 2 ovals, or 2 draws, or any other combination of over-engineered gear for a TR anchor. Guess I answered my own question. Cheers. p.s. I love this forum.
Jay was busy, so I thought I might help you out.*
My first condescending reply from Lena, now all I need is a grammar correction from Jay and I'll feel all warm and fuzzy about posting here.
* insert smiley emoticon
(This post was edited by sp115 on Nov 18, 2011, 8:41 PM)
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t.e.d
Nov 18, 2011, 8:53 PM
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sp115 wrote: t.e.d wrote: Awesome. My first condescending reply from Lena. Now, all I need is a grammar correction from Jay and I'll feel all warm and fuzzy about posting here. Thanks to all who answered my question. Yeah, I'm pretty new to climbing, but I take it very seriously. I'm not going to die doing this, regardless of whether I use 1 locker or 2 ovals, or 2 draws, or any other combination of over-engineered gear for a TR anchor. Guess I answered my own question. Cheers. p.s. I love this forum. Jay was busy, so I thought I might help you out.* My first condescending reply from Lena, now all I need is a grammar correction from Jay and I'll feel all warm and fuzzy about posting here. * insert smiley emoticon
I'll take what I can get. Thanks. 
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