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Safe Anchors?
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toddler273


Nov 21, 2011, 6:09 PM
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Safe Anchors?
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Hello fellow rock climbing fanatics!
I've been expanding my climbing locations and I've come upon many bolted routes today. I live in Southern California, in Box Springs park and there are many listed routes. Anyways I have found many bolt hangers and also chain anchors on new climbs that I want to begin. Alot of these man made anchors are really rusty and If I were to guess I would say there atleast 20 years old. Here are some pictures of the anchors, let me know what you guys think on how safe these are??







ianmeister89


Nov 21, 2011, 6:12 PM
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Re: [toddler273] Safe Anchors? [In reply to]
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These look OK to me. On another note, Which walls were these photos taken at, these anchors look unfamiliar to me.

-Ian


toddler273


Nov 21, 2011, 6:25 PM
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Re: [ianmeister89] Safe Anchors? [In reply to]
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I believe those were in this area.

Cant be 100% sure
There are so many bolted routes in that area.
I pretty much climb alone using The Soloist and I will be able to set up great TR on most of these routes. I cant wait!Wink


patto


Nov 21, 2011, 6:29 PM
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Re: [toddler273] Safe Anchors? [In reply to]
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They're fine. (Presuming the rust on the hangers in the second pic is just surface.)


climbingtrash


Nov 21, 2011, 9:04 PM
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Re: [toddler273] Safe Anchors? [In reply to]
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toddler273 wrote:
Hello fellow rock climbing fanatics!
I've been expanding my climbing locations and I've come upon many bolted routes today. I live in Southern California, in Box Springs park and there are many listed routes. Anyways I have found many bolt hangers and also chain anchors on new climbs that I want to begin. Alot of these man made anchors are really rusty and If I were to guess I would say there atleast 20 years old. Here are some pictures of the anchors, let me know what you guys think on how safe these are??

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/toddler273/chains.jpg[/image]
[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/toddler273/chains1.jpg[/image]

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/toddler273/wall2.jpg[/image]

These are Bomber and overkill.


The others look fine to me too. Wouldn't have placed them that close together myself, but meh, they'll do.


socalclimber


Nov 21, 2011, 9:19 PM
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Re: [toddler273] Safe Anchors? [In reply to]
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A number of those routes went up 12 to 15 years ago or so. I believe Aron Rough was doing a bunch of the development back then. Those are just fine.


jae8908


Nov 21, 2011, 9:26 PM
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Re: [toddler273] Safe Anchors? [In reply to]
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Wish the anchors in my climbing area were like either of these considering that it is just surface rust in the second picture. The first are overkill as said above.


tH1e-swiN1e


Nov 22, 2011, 7:09 AM
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Id clip those without ever second guessing it.


jacques


Nov 22, 2011, 8:52 AM
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Re: [toddler273] Safe Anchors? [In reply to]
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toddler273 wrote:
Here are some pictures of the anchors, let me know what you guys think on how safe these are?

As a trad climber, I will put a sling from a bolt to the anchor as a back up to belay. to rap, the heavier climber will go first and the litghter second.

The chance that two bolt broke at the same time is very rare. I can place a pro if it is questionable


summerprophet


Nov 22, 2011, 9:21 AM
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Re: [toddler273] Safe Anchors? [In reply to]
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From thte photgraphs these look ok to me.

Areas of concern when you reach a questionable bolts
learn to identify 1/4 inch bolts, star drive, and rivets, these are certainly something I would want to back up. For 3/8 or 1/2" bolts that appear to be good, try to lever on the hanger and so if there is any movement of the bolt itself. Spinning hangers are fine, but what you want to be aware of is the bolt actually having movemnet in the hole. If so, the hole may be oval, or may have been drilled with a wrong sized bit.
Another area of concern is corrosion. general surface corrosion is not much of a concern unless you notice deep pitting of the metal. But the BIG worry is a shiny bolt hanger and rusted bolt. Stainless hangers and soft steel bolts lead to premature failure of the bolt. Again, this is more than a few specks of orange or brown surface stain, but actual corrosion you can see a depth to.

Hope this helps.

.... Oh and never take advice from someone who states they would clip it without even thinking about it.


tolman_paul


Nov 22, 2011, 10:11 AM
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This setup doesn't give me a warm fuzzy.



The bolts are placed too close together, and the bolt on the right is pretty close to a crack. So if I was setting up my rope to solo from, I'd consider placing a piece of pro or two to back up the anchor. It is probably ok, but hard to say without personally inspecting it.

I guess hte greatest concern I'd have is that based on how the bolts were placed, I'd conclude whoever placed them really didn't know what they were doing, and I'd be concerned that the bolts were possibly incorectly torqued.

Just because permanent pro is there, doesn't mean you have to use it, nor does it mean backing it up isn't an option.


shockabuku


Nov 22, 2011, 2:57 PM
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Re: [jacques] Safe Anchors? [In reply to]
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jacques wrote:
toddler273 wrote:
Here are some pictures of the anchors, let me know what you guys think on how safe these are?

As a trad climber, I will put a sling from a bolt to the anchor as a back up to belay. to rap, the heavier climber will go first and the litghter second.

The chance that two bolt broke at the same time is very rare. I can place a pro if it is questionable

Draw me a picture of that. Maybe it'll be my personal Rosetta Stone to jacques speak.


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