Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners:
getting better?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Beginners

Premier Sponsor:

 


nick97


Nov 13, 2011, 2:58 PM
Post #1 of 13 (3451 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2011
Posts: 26

getting better?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Im a beginner climber and really love to climb. Ive been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to build my own woody in my garage. I climb and set routes on it pretty much like 2-3 times a week and then visit the climbing gym every weekend. Ive been climbing for about 5 months and Im stuck on a V3 and 5.10a plateau. I want to start climbing harder things but every time i try I just cant seem to get it. I think if I could set some harder routes on my woody I could get better but I dont have any skill in setting. Maybe I should use a hangboard? Any help is really appreciated.
-Nick


Player


Nov 13, 2011, 5:27 PM
Post #2 of 13 (3423 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2011
Posts: 55

Re: [nick97] getting better? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Maybe you can go to your gym and talk to them about setting or take a picture of some of their harder routes and replicate in your garage.


lena_chita
Moderator

Nov 13, 2011, 5:38 PM
Post #3 of 13 (3417 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5472

Re: [nick97] getting better? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Being inexperienced and new, it would be very hard to set routes that are just beyond your current level, and address your weaknesses. It is common for people to set routes that are all the same style, with the same moves/holds over and over.

Have you met people/made friends at the gym? Is there a chance that you could invite some more experienced people over to your house one afternoon for a route-setting party? Pizza and beer would be motivation enough, it isn't that much of a trouble, and it could be fun.

Is there a reason why you only go to the gym on a weekend? (too far to drive?) If there is any chance that you could go climbing at the gym more often, IMO it would be more productive, because even the best home woody probably doesn't have as much variety or angles, holds, etc., as a good gym would have. And, in a gym you have an added benefit of watching other people climb and being able get input from others and to modify what you are doing based on what you see other climbers do.

But a bigger issue is that you need a good evaluation of what your strengths and weaknesses are, and a good plan to work systematically on the weaknesses. Self-Coached Climber book is a very good resource for anybody who is trying to get better. I suggest that yuo get it soon.


nick97


Nov 13, 2011, 6:10 PM
Post #4 of 13 (3406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2011
Posts: 26

Re: [lena_chita] getting better? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ya getting some people over to help set routes is a good idea. And I'll try to get that book, do you have any advice on using a hangboard?


Diddii


Nov 14, 2011, 8:26 AM
Post #5 of 13 (3352 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 13, 2011
Posts: 6

Re: [nick97] getting better? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i've been climbing for 2,5 months right now and done two v4 indoor bouldering routes, what really helped me get past v3 was getting help from more experienced climbers with these boulder problems (where to place your feet and how to turn you body in what direction etc.)

I focused more on climbing alot of v2 and v3 routes, learn to climb boulder problem and then climb them again and again until i could climb them more efficiently and relaxed with every move.


lithiummetalman


Nov 14, 2011, 9:49 AM
Post #6 of 13 (3324 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 28, 2004
Posts: 286

Re: [nick97] getting better? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

-Skip the hangboard for now

-Make some climbing friends

-Get outside as soon as possible

-Climb as many practices (sport, trad, bouldering, etc) if possible to see what you like.

-Climb some more

-Stretch and be sure to exercise muscle groups not used by climbing

-Stay hydrated, sleep well, eat well.

-Rinse and Repeat

-Enjoy yourself!


jae8908


Nov 14, 2011, 12:54 PM
Post #7 of 13 (3272 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 15, 2011
Posts: 270

Re: [lena_chita] getting better? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

lena_chita wrote:
Being inexperienced and new, it would be very hard to set routes that are just beyond your current level, and address your weaknesses. It is common for people to set routes that are all the same style, with the same moves/holds over and over.

Have you met people/made friends at the gym? Is there a chance that you could invite some more experienced people over to your house one afternoon for a route-setting party? Pizza and beer would be motivation enough, it isn't that much of a trouble, and it could be fun.

Is there a reason why you only go to the gym on a weekend? (too far to drive?) If there is any chance that you could go climbing at the gym more often, IMO it would be more productive, because even the best home woody probably doesn't have as much variety or angles, holds, etc., as a good gym would have. And, in a gym you have an added benefit of watching other people climb and being able get input from others and to modify what you are doing based on what you see other climbers do.

But a bigger issue is that you need a good evaluation of what your strengths and weaknesses are, and a good plan to work systematically on the weaknesses. Self-Coached Climber book is a very good resource for anybody who is trying to get better. I suggest that yuo get it soon.

especially the pizza and beer part


hbusch


Nov 14, 2011, 2:10 PM
Post #8 of 13 (3255 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 9, 2003
Posts: 38

Re: [nick97] getting better? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hi,
lithiummetalman has got it all. Climbing is the key. Nothing else.
Do it safe.
AgeBee
In reply to:


tH1e-swiN1e


Nov 14, 2011, 3:12 PM
Post #9 of 13 (3246 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 28, 2011
Posts: 192

Re: [hbusch] getting better? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

10a is like V0. Get some friends over and set your brains out.


rossross


Nov 22, 2011, 8:55 AM
Post #11 of 13 (2933 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 28, 2007
Posts: 40

Re: [nick97] getting better? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

nick97 wrote:
Im a beginner climber and really love to climb. Ive been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to build my own woody in my garage. I climb and set routes on it pretty much like 2-3 times a week and then visit the climbing gym every weekend. Ive been climbing for about 5 months and Im stuck on a V3 and 5.10a plateau. I want to start climbing harder things but every time i try I just cant seem to get it. I think if I could set some harder routes on my woody I could get better but I dont have any skill in setting. Maybe I should use a hangboard? Any help is really appreciated.
-Nick

I would not consider this a plateau. You have only been climbing for 5 months, not really long enough to hit a true plateau IMO. Yes you may have progressed from 5.6 - 5.10 quickly and are at 10a longer then any grade but that does not necessarily a plateau make. Spend most of your time repeating things just below your max as opposed to trying a personal best every time you climb. It takes time for your fingers to gain the required strength to progress. Aim for volume in most of your workouts and you will be surprised how much you will progress.

Climb long enough and you will come to a point where it will take 1 year to progress one letter or V grade.


goldeneagle


Dec 24, 2011, 10:11 AM
Post #12 of 13 (2575 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 4, 2011
Posts: 17

Re: [nick97] getting better? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Skip the hangboard for now

-Make some climbing friends

-Get outside as soon as possible

-Climb as many practices (sport, trad, bouldering, etc) if possible to see what you like.

-Climb some more

-Stretch and be sure to exercise muscle groups not used by climbing

-Stay hydrated, sleep well, eat well.

-Rinse and Repeat

-Enjoy yourself!


Lithiummetalman got it right. This is everything you need to know! Hangboards are a great way to injure yourself, so wait on that for sure. As everyone else has said, climb more. If your home woody starts to feel a little easy and you think you can do it without injuring yourself, consider using a door frame to do static hangs and pull ups. It can be really helpful, just make sure your door frame and your body can handle it.


nick97


Dec 25, 2011, 2:17 PM
Post #13 of 13 (2515 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2011
Posts: 26

Re: [goldeneagle] getting better? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks, I have been using my bathroom doorframe for a while now. I can deadhang and do pull ups, my record is 8. All your help is really appreciated!


Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook