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The right shoes...
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leeola


Nov 23, 2011, 10:25 AM
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The right shoes...
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Hi,

I'm new to bouldering and I'm thinking of getting my first pair of climbing shoes. I've been able to try a few pairs at my climbing gym so I think I've gotten a basic idea of what I'm after.

Long story short, I've tried and like the Evolv Defy VTR and have used them somewhat. Thing is, with these shoes and most of the ones I've tried I've found that my toes tend to curl a little. I'm told this is fine and in some ways beneficial. I'm just curious if this is an indicator of a bad fit or not? There pretty comfy in my opinion so perhaps if the shoe fits... I've been using a UK size a half step down from my usual size 9 so 8.5.

Any thoughts anyone? Thanks


granite_grrl


Nov 23, 2011, 12:54 PM
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leeola wrote:
Hi,

I'm new to bouldering and I'm thinking of getting my first pair of climbing shoes. I've been able to try a few pairs at my climbing gym so I think I've gotten a basic idea of what I'm after.

Long story short, I've tried and like the Evolv Defy VTR and have used them somewhat. Thing is, with these shoes and most of the ones I've tried I've found that my toes tend to curl a little. I'm told this is fine and in some ways beneficial. I'm just curious if this is an indicator of a bad fit or not? There pretty comfy in my opinion so perhaps if the shoe fits... I've been using a UK size a half step down from my usual size 9 so 8.5.

Any thoughts anyone? Thanks
My toes are at least slightly curled in every pair of climbing shoes I've owned. As long as those shoes are fairly comfortable with your toes curled a little then I would say they are sized okay.


jbro_135


Nov 23, 2011, 2:14 PM
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Your toes should curl a little bit at the most in those shoes. Defys aren't very aggressive shoes, so there's not much point in buying them super tight. In a more aggressive downturned shoe then your toes should be pretty scrunched up in the toe-box.


shellc0de


Dec 1, 2011, 9:09 PM
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I rented some shoes today and my toes were curled a little but it felt super uncomfortable, to the point where climbing a 5.7 gave me a horrible charlie horse and I think I'm doing it wrong. Maybe it was because they were rentals...

I do indoor and outdoor sport climbing and some bouldering so what would be the best type of shoe, more aggressive or more comfort?


shockabuku


Dec 2, 2011, 5:57 AM
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shellc0de wrote:
I rented some shoes today and my toes were curled a little but it felt super uncomfortable, to the point where climbing a 5.7 gave me a horrible charlie horse and I think I'm doing it wrong. Maybe it was because they were rentals...

I do indoor and outdoor sport climbing and some bouldering so what would be the best type of shoe, more aggressive or more comfort?

The one you can stand to wear.


curt


Dec 2, 2011, 8:31 AM
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Actually, you don't want right shoes. You want one right shoe and one left shoe--that could be your problem right there. Cool

Curt


mikebee


Dec 2, 2011, 3:30 PM
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In reply to:
I do indoor and outdoor sport climbing and some bouldering so what would be the best type of shoe, more aggressive or more comfort?

Assuming the sport climbing is vertical to overhanging, as most sport tends to be, an aggressive shoe would generally be favoured.

However, if it's your first pair of shoes, search for one of the thousands of "which first shoes should I buy?" threads. For your first pair you aren't climbing with enough technique to use aggressive shoes properly, so buy something firmly fitting, but comfortable while you learn your trade a bit.


jamesnater


Dec 3, 2011, 1:11 PM
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Which downturned rock shoes typically last the longest as far as the rubber goes? I know that eVolves wear fast from what I've been told...


(This post was edited by jamesnater on Dec 3, 2011, 1:12 PM)


shockabuku


Dec 3, 2011, 2:56 PM
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jamesnater wrote:
Which downturned rock shoes typically last the longest as far as the rubber goes? I know that eVolves wear fast from what I've been told...

The ones that don't get worn much and the ones worn by better climbers.

Seriously, other than the thickness of the rubber there isn't much difference in how various shoes wear that isn't caused by the user.


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