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dave76
Nov 29, 2011, 1:04 PM
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Registered: Jul 5, 2005
Posts: 49
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hi all,
I've been thinking of doing this for a while, but never got to do it. I am now taking a weekly perf-training class at the local club and was thinking of proposing this to our coach.
How many of you have tried filming themselves and others while working on some boulder problems or routes?
Have you found watching videos of yourself helpful in improving your technique?
I haven't seen this discussed elsewhere, but if there's already a thread I apologize in advance ;).
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lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 29, 2011, 2:00 PM
Post #2 of 5
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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I don't know what perf-class is, but filming is used as part of training in gymnastics all the time. And I believe that the authors of Self-Coached Climber use this approach, too, when working with climbers looking for improvement.
I would think that the amount of help you get out of this sort of review depends on how good you are at analyzing the movement, dissecting it into elements and figuring our what exactly needs to be changed, and how. Gymnasts review those videos with a coach who is experienced and able to point out specific things that need to be changed-- timing, body position, etc.
In any case, I cannot see why it would be harmful, and it has a potential to be helpful, so do it!
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DouglasHunter
Nov 30, 2011, 8:31 PM
Post #3 of 5
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Registered: Oct 2, 2010
Posts: 106
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Analysis of movement using video is extremely helpful and its a tool that is not used nearly enough here in the US. Part of the reason, is that to do it well one needs the right equipment and the right methodology.
On the most simple level, the literature on the more casual use of video suggests that watching yourself or others can be helpful if there is someone there who can guide the observation process pointing out the salient features of the movement to you and the other viewers.
Also if you are watching yourself on video, it helps if you watch the video right away after you get off the route or problem and then give the route or problem another try as soon as you can after watching the video, having specific changes or areas of emphasis for the post video burn. Also watch the video several times,and watch it at regular speed and slowed down.
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sungam
Nov 30, 2011, 9:11 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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When I lived in a flat with a bunch of other climbers and had a woody in the living room there were a couple of times when we filmed ourselves doing problems then discussed it. It always helped a ton, but we only ended up doing it a handful of times, which I regret.
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Geekstar
Jan 23, 2012, 3:57 AM
Post #5 of 5
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Registered: Oct 30, 2011
Posts: 18
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Today my partner and I hit the gym because of the weather (rain is not your friend on sandstone). This gym has autobelay which freaks us both out, haha, but it meant that we could film so we tried it.
1. It's an awesome ego boost to see yourself climbing smoothly (especially if you don't own a full length mirror and don't get to see your amazing rock climbing butt that often).
2. It's great to SEE. The hold you missed that threw off the whole sequence, the way you move your body, the time you spend thinking, the way you react to a slip, the better technique you could have used, the good technique you did.
I'm looking forward to another rainy day where we can watch ourselves working the same routes and compare.
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