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Another finger Injury
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Danx


Dec 1, 2011, 7:34 PM
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Registered: Feb 22, 2011
Posts: 55

Another finger Injury
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Hi All,

Around 3-4 months back I injured one of my fingers while climbing. I didn't feel the injury until the day after but there was a strong ache feeling (Think it's probably a pulley injury from over crimping?).

Since then I have carried on climbing but tried to take things easy and also used theraputty and the metolius gripsaver to try and help the injury. The problem is while im climbing my hand feels completely fine but for the next 1-2 days a dull ache returns

What id like to know, is if this sounds like part of the healing process or if it sounds like im doing further damage and should lay off climbing for a few months?

Thanks


(This post was edited by Danx on Dec 1, 2011, 7:36 PM)


redlude97


Dec 1, 2011, 9:12 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990

Re: [Danx] Another finger Injury [In reply to]
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I would say 4 weeks minimum.


onceahardman


Dec 2, 2011, 11:52 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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Re: [Danx] Another finger Injury [In reply to]
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Danx wrote:
Hi All,

Around 3-4 months back I injured one of my fingers while climbing. I didn't feel the injury until the day after but there was a strong ache feeling (Think it's probably a pulley injury from over crimping?).

Since then I have carried on climbing but tried to take things easy and also used theraputty and the metolius gripsaver to try and help the injury. The problem is while im climbing my hand feels completely fine but for the next 1-2 days a dull ache returns

What id like to know, is if this sounds like part of the healing process or if it sounds like im doing further damage and should lay off climbing for a few months?

Thanks

You seem to be describing pain at rest. Pain at rest is a pretty reliable sign of inflammation. I suspect you have torn some connective tissue (capsule, collateral ligaments, pulleys, etc). You applied forces to these structures which were in excess of the tensile strength of the tissue. Now, you have resulting instability, because of the damaged connective tissue, and the joint gets inflamed because of excess motion during climbing.

Long term inflammation of a joint will lead to degenerative bony changes (arthritic changes). In fact, inflammation of a joint is, by definition, arthritis.

If I were you, I'd first limit climbing on plastic. Climb on rock, which tends to be much easier on finger joints. Learn to use the open grip, rather than crimping. Keep the finger joints moving. Progress slowly.


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