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Foot and calf pump
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Buri
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Dec 2, 2011, 1:28 PM
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Foot and calf pump
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I have problem while climbing longer pitches especially when there is lot of smearing or stemming on blank walls involving lot of standing on lowered heel. If it takes long time to finish pitch i get pump and cramps in my calves but even more into muscles in bottom of my feet in the middle between toes and heel. It happens even when I have quite loose shoes which are not that much downturned (Miuras Lace). It helps to relax standing on heel midpitch, but it's not always option and cramping comes back quite quickly. Only relief is after I put my shoes down. This muscle pain gets so bad that my technique suffers a lot and I hang more on my arms and I cannot rest properly even almost in a no hand rest requiring to stand in stemmed corner or on slab. Am I doing something wrong or the muscles will get stronger on their own? Are there any exercises to help my feet muscles get stronger?

Mostly I climb for 3 years, but usually some shorter pitches in local areas but when I go on a climbing trip when I get on something 40m long or even more on multipitch climbing when you climb 2 pitches in a row it really sucks.

Thanks for any help.

(This post was edited by Buri on Dec 2, 2011, 1:35 PM)


jeepnphreak


Dec 2, 2011, 3:15 PM
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Re: [Buri] Foot and calf pump [In reply to]
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I would venture a guess that you are not lowering your heel as much are you think you are. I f you heel is droped than ther should be little striength generated by your calves.

As far as making you deet and calves stronger try heel flexes on stairs/other raised surface that you can stand on your toes. Get you toes on the edge of the stair and let you heel drop until you get a stretch inyou calf, then push up to you tip toes. repete until fatigued.


shimanilami


Dec 2, 2011, 4:00 PM
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Re: [Buri] Foot and calf pump [In reply to]
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Even "expert" climbers can get spanked on unfamiliar terrain. I've seen V10 boulderers get shut down by 5.9 hand cracks. Put simply, they haven't developed the technique or fitness required for this specific type of climbing. You are in the same boat.

Obviously, your calves are not conditioned for this type of climbing. If you want to get better at this style, you need to train for it. Plain and simple.


onceahardman


Dec 2, 2011, 4:04 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Foot and calf pump [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
Even "expert" climbers can get spanked on unfamiliar terrain. I've seen V10 boulderers get shut down by 5.9 hand cracks. Put simply, they haven't developed the technique or fitness required for this specific type of climbing. You are in the same boat.

Obviously, your calves are not conditioned for this type of climbing. If you want to get better at this style, you need to train for it. Plain and simple.

This is exactly right. If you want to climb long stemming corners, you'll need to train your feet and calves. You'd probably even benefit from (gasp) weight training.

Oh, the horror! Let the bloodbath begin!


Buri
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Re: [onceahardman] Foot and calf pump [In reply to]
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Thanks for answers, I will try those heel flexes mentioned above. Are there any other specific weighted exercises that I can do so I can jump to new season with calves of steel?


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