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Lichenness Stripped of Bolts
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6pacfershur


Dec 2, 2011, 10:21 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] Lichenness Stripped of Bolts [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
IMHO, any time i hear someone say that "climbing this/that is boring", even some goofy TR, i think they have lost sight of the simple fact that its supposed to be fun........simple, mad fun

If its boring, its not fun.

"fun comes from the inside, it isnt about what we actually do" marge simpson....you can go back to your cube now


sungam


Dec 3, 2011, 1:56 AM
Post #103 of 111 (2264 views)
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Re: [6pacfershur] Lichenness Stripped of Bolts [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
IMHO, any time i hear someone say that "climbing this/that is boring", even some goofy TR, i think they have lost sight of the simple fact that its supposed to be fun........simple, mad fun

If its boring, its not fun.

"fun comes from the inside, it isnt about what we actually do" marge simpson....you can go back to your cube now
If it is boring, it is not fun.


petsfed


Dec 3, 2011, 9:15 AM
Post #104 of 111 (2238 views)
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Re: [fluffybynomeans] Lichenness Stripped of Bolts [In reply to]
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fluffybynomeans wrote:
Why the heck is everyone into taking short cuts?

Because not everyone climbs for the same reasons anymore? I've said this already, if your end goal is to focus on the movement without actively worrying about the risk, or the position, why should the path to get there involve both? Climbers haven't had a uniform notion of what their sport was about since the 70s. Insisting that we should is impressively, stupidly, optimistic about how easy it is to change people's minds.


donald949


Dec 5, 2011, 8:35 AM
Post #105 of 111 (2195 views)
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Re: [fluffybynomeans] Lichenness Stripped of Bolts [In reply to]
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fluffybynomeans wrote:
What if you are TR'ing it from the 8th pitch mate? Someone has to lead it.
You're goning to need a bigger rope.


Claymsmith


Feb 17, 2012, 2:32 PM
Post #106 of 111 (2039 views)
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Re: [donald949] Lichenness Stripped of Bolts [In reply to]
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Damn, apparently I started a fire.

Anyway with the park being built I've been informed that people cutting bolts will be regarded as vandals. So basically the cops are going to get involved. I'm not sure what that means for bolting new routes or replacing bolts. Misty is missing one now, although I think it makes it more interesting.

Next: Chopping bolts is a dick move. People get cut and hurt on badly chopped bolts. Don't want to sport climb it? Dont! The bolts are not placed the same way trad gear is. Its not in your way. And please, please don't leave a bolt 80% cut through for someone to die on. Unsafe bolts are a different matter, cut them if you can.

Chopping routes is kinda of like a hipster murdering their favorite band so no one else will hear about them. If you're rocking 5.12 trad routes you're already badass. You don't need to degrade the experience for everyone else or be an elitest prick.

Sandrock is pretty massive, we can all get along. At the end of the day its about how much you enjoyed the climb, not what the grade was or how you did it. If you want to swing dicks about being a trad climber or the best boulder guy or whatever, then I really feel for you. You're clearly not getting any enjoyment out of the climb itself.

All that being said, if I come across someone chopping bolts I'm pretty much just going to take your picture and call the cops. I hope the $1000 min fine is worth it.

Edit: Note about unsafe bolts.


(This post was edited by Claymsmith on Feb 17, 2012, 2:34 PM)


jae8908


Feb 17, 2012, 10:03 PM
Post #107 of 111 (1995 views)
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Re: [Claymsmith] Lichenness Stripped of Bolts [In reply to]
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Claymsmith wrote:
Damn, apparently I started a fire.

Anyway with the park being built I've been informed that people cutting bolts will be regarded as vandals. So basically the cops are going to get involved. I'm not sure what that means for bolting new routes or replacing bolts. Misty is missing one now, although I think it makes it more interesting.

Next: Chopping bolts is a dick move. People get cut and hurt on badly chopped bolts. Don't want to sport climb it? Dont! The bolts are not placed the same way trad gear is. Its not in your way. And please, please don't leave a bolt 80% cut through for someone to die on. Unsafe bolts are a different matter, cut them if you can.

Chopping routes is kinda of like a hipster murdering their favorite band so no one else will hear about them. If you're rocking 5.12 trad routes you're already badass. You don't need to degrade the experience for everyone else or be an elitest prick.

Sandrock is pretty massive, we can all get along. At the end of the day its about how much you enjoyed the climb, not what the grade was or how you did it. If you want to swing dicks about being a trad climber or the best boulder guy or whatever, then I really feel for you. You're clearly not getting any enjoyment out of the climb itself.

All that being said, if I come across someone chopping bolts I'm pretty much just going to take your picture and call the cops. I hope the $1000 min fine is worth it.

Edit: Note about unsafe bolts.
This is good for Sandrock. There has been lots of negative stuff go on there for years. Hopefully with the park and all it will straighten up a little.


jae8908


Jul 21, 2012, 2:04 PM
Post #108 of 111 (1780 views)
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Re: [Claymsmith] Lichenness Stripped of Bolts [In reply to]
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Licheness has been rebolted thanks to Johnny Arms.


Claymsmith


Oct 12, 2012, 10:10 PM
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Re: [jae8908] Lichenness Stripped of Bolts [In reply to]
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Awesome news. Very grateful. I was considering re-bolting it but while I *technically* know how to set bolts, I'm not comfortable enough to trust someone else's life to it.


tradmanclimbs


Oct 16, 2012, 8:09 PM
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Re: [Claymsmith] Lichenness Stripped of Bolts [In reply to]
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WOW! I never knew this before but aparently John Wesly is in fact one of the most stunningly arogant asswhipes on the internetCrazy
the Internet is a pretty darn big place so that is quite an accomplishment.

This is my take on bolted climbs. Not every place has an abundance of gear protected climbs. If everywhere was a Seneca, Lindvile, Gunks or indian creek etc I could understand the anti bolt attitude. the reality of life however is that some places have very few to zero decently protected climbs without bolts. For someone to come out and declare that those areas should not have any climbs under 5.10 is pretty fucking arogant INMOP


(This post was edited by tradmanclimbs on Oct 17, 2012, 4:19 AM)


Kartessa


Oct 20, 2012, 12:04 AM
Post #111 of 111 (1490 views)
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Re: [tradmanclimbs] Lichenness Stripped of Bolts [In reply to]
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tradmanclimbs wrote:
WOW! I never knew this before but aparently John Wesly is in fact one of the most stunningly arogant asswhipes on the internetCrazy

It's spelled "Arrogant Asswipe"

But good on you for trying Wink

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