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6pacfershur
Dec 2, 2011, 10:21 PM
Post #102 of 111
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Registered: Jun 22, 2010
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johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: IMHO, any time i hear someone say that "climbing this/that is boring", even some goofy TR, i think they have lost sight of the simple fact that its supposed to be fun........simple, mad fun If its boring, its not fun.
"fun comes from the inside, it isnt about what we actually do" marge simpson....you can go back to your cube now
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sungam
Dec 3, 2011, 1:56 AM
Post #103 of 111
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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6pacfershur wrote: johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: IMHO, any time i hear someone say that "climbing this/that is boring", even some goofy TR, i think they have lost sight of the simple fact that its supposed to be fun........simple, mad fun If its boring, its not fun. marge simpson....you can go back to your cube now
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petsfed
Dec 3, 2011, 9:15 AM
Post #104 of 111
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 8571
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fluffybynomeans wrote: Why the heck is everyone into taking short cuts?
Because not everyone climbs for the same reasons anymore? I've said this already, if your end goal is to focus on the movement without actively worrying about the risk, or the position, why should the path to get there involve both? Climbers haven't had a uniform notion of what their sport was about since the 70s. Insisting that we should is impressively, stupidly, optimistic about how easy it is to change people's minds.
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donald949
Dec 5, 2011, 8:35 AM
Post #105 of 111
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Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 10849
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fluffybynomeans wrote: What if you are TR'ing it from the 8th pitch mate? Someone has to lead it.
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Claymsmith
Feb 17, 2012, 2:32 PM
Post #106 of 111
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Registered: Oct 11, 2010
Posts: 9
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Damn, apparently I started a fire.
Anyway with the park being built I've been informed that people cutting bolts will be regarded as vandals. So basically the cops are going to get involved. I'm not sure what that means for bolting new routes or replacing bolts. Misty is missing one now, although I think it makes it more interesting.
Next: Chopping bolts is a dick move. People get cut and hurt on badly chopped bolts. Don't want to sport climb it? Dont! The bolts are not placed the same way trad gear is. Its not in your way. And please, please don't leave a bolt 80% cut through for someone to die on. Unsafe bolts are a different matter, cut them if you can.
Chopping routes is kinda of like a hipster murdering their favorite band so no one else will hear about them. If you're rocking 5.12 trad routes you're already badass. You don't need to degrade the experience for everyone else or be an elitest prick.
Sandrock is pretty massive, we can all get along. At the end of the day its about how much you enjoyed the climb, not what the grade was or how you did it. If you want to swing dicks about being a trad climber or the best boulder guy or whatever, then I really feel for you. You're clearly not getting any enjoyment out of the climb itself.
All that being said, if I come across someone chopping bolts I'm pretty much just going to take your picture and call the cops. I hope the $1000 min fine is worth it.
Edit: Note about unsafe bolts.
(This post was edited by Claymsmith on Feb 17, 2012, 2:34 PM)
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jae8908
Feb 17, 2012, 10:03 PM
Post #107 of 111
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Registered: May 15, 2011
Posts: 268
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Claymsmith wrote: Damn, apparently I started a fire. Anyway with the park being built I've been informed that people cutting bolts will be regarded as vandals. So basically the cops are going to get involved. I'm not sure what that means for bolting new routes or replacing bolts. Misty is missing one now, although I think it makes it more interesting. Next: Chopping bolts is a dick move. People get cut and hurt on badly chopped bolts. Don't want to sport climb it? Dont! The bolts are not placed the same way trad gear is. Its not in your way. And please, please don't leave a bolt 80% cut through for someone to die on. Unsafe bolts are a different matter, cut them if you can. Chopping routes is kinda of like a hipster murdering their favorite band so no one else will hear about them. If you're rocking 5.12 trad routes you're already badass. You don't need to degrade the experience for everyone else or be an elitest prick. Sandrock is pretty massive, we can all get along. At the end of the day its about how much you enjoyed the climb, not what the grade was or how you did it. If you want to swing dicks about being a trad climber or the best boulder guy or whatever, then I really feel for you. You're clearly not getting any enjoyment out of the climb itself. All that being said, if I come across someone chopping bolts I'm pretty much just going to take your picture and call the cops. I hope the $1000 min fine is worth it. Edit: Note about unsafe bolts.
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jae8908
Jul 21, 2012, 2:04 PM
Post #108 of 111
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Registered: May 15, 2011
Posts: 268
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Licheness has been rebolted thanks to Johnny Arms.
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Claymsmith
Oct 12, 2012, 10:10 PM
Post #109 of 111
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Registered: Oct 11, 2010
Posts: 9
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Awesome news. Very grateful. I was considering re-bolting it but while I *technically* know how to set bolts, I'm not comfortable enough to trust someone else's life to it.
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 16, 2012, 8:09 PM
Post #110 of 111
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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WOW! I never knew this before but aparently John Wesly is in fact one of the most stunningly arogant asswhipes on the internet
the Internet is a pretty darn big place so that is quite an accomplishment.
This is my take on bolted climbs. Not every place has an abundance of gear protected climbs. If everywhere was a Seneca, Lindvile, Gunks or indian creek etc I could understand the anti bolt attitude. the reality of life however is that some places have very few to zero decently protected climbs without bolts. For someone to come out and declare that those areas should not have any climbs under 5.10 is pretty fucking arogant INMOP
(This post was edited by tradmanclimbs on Oct 17, 2012, 4:19 AM)
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