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turbofeedus
Dec 2, 2011, 2:22 AM
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New here, wanted to share my experiences today.
Ive been climbing for a month or so, three times a week (tuesday, thursday, saturday, other days are rest days). At this point I have a pretty good idea of how strong my hands are and what I can normally do, but today for some reason my hands felt abnormally weak. I couldn't pull off holds I know I've nailed before. Has anyone else had this experience? It was cold in the gym and I have a narly cut on my big toe that was KILLING me today... could that have played a part?
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Kartessa
Dec 2, 2011, 3:20 AM
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turbofeedus wrote: New here, wanted to share my experiences today. Ive been climbing for a month or so, three times a week (tuesday, thursday, saturday, other days are rest days). At this point I have a pretty good idea of how strong my hands are and what I can normally do, but today for some reason my hands felt abnormally weak. I couldn't pull off holds I know I've nailed before. Has anyone else had this experience? It was cold in the gym and I have a narly cut on my big toe that was KILLING me today... could that have played a part?
You have strong days and weak days. This won't be your last time struggling where you would normally cruise.
It just happens, blame it on "high gravity" 
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climbingtrash
Dec 2, 2011, 6:43 AM
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Kartessa wrote: turbofeedus wrote: New here, wanted to share my experiences today. Ive been climbing for a month or so, three times a week (tuesday, thursday, saturday, other days are rest days). At this point I have a pretty good idea of how strong my hands are and what I can normally do, but today for some reason my hands felt abnormally weak. I couldn't pull off holds I know I've nailed before. Has anyone else had this experience? It was cold in the gym and I have a narly cut on my big toe that was KILLING me today... could that have played a part? You have strong days and weak days. This won't be your last time struggling where you would normally cruise. It just happens, blame it on "high gravity"
Whatever you do blame it on something other than yoreself. Weak days happen to me all the time and after 20 years of climbing I have a whole list of things I've come up with to blame it on, ya know, to make me feel better.
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Ksween
Dec 2, 2011, 6:46 AM
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Could have been the toe or the temp (though I usually climb better in colder temps) Or it couldve been any number of things. Sleep, food, hydration mindset and many other things affect how well you can climb on any given day. Hope this helps
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iknowfear
Dec 2, 2011, 9:52 AM
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turbofeedus wrote: New here, wanted to share my experiences today. Ive been climbing for a month or so, three times a week (tuesday, thursday, saturday, other days are rest days). At this point I have a pretty good idea of how strong my hands are and what I can normally do, but today for some reason my hands felt abnormally weak. I couldn't pull off holds I know I've nailed before. Has anyone else had this experience? It was cold in the gym and I have a narly cut on my big toe that was KILLING me today... could that have played a part?
high gravity happens. blame it on:
-old shoes
-new shoes
-stress at work
-stress at home
-too crowded
-too quiet
-too tired
-too stoked
-too cold
-too warm
my tip: skip the next session (giving you a rest day more)
and dont freak out, it happens. (yesterday was extremly high gravity for me - meh.)
cheers
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wallmonkey35
Dec 2, 2011, 12:37 PM
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Yep. High gravity day. Happens to everyone. Try not to let it mess with your psyche for the next session and remember, if you didn't hit the ground, it wasn't a bad day of climbing. Just a high gravity one.
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turbofeedus
Dec 2, 2011, 12:40 PM
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Thanks guys, feel better already.
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Gmburns2000
Dec 2, 2011, 12:54 PM
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turbofeedus wrote: New here, wanted to share my experiences today. Ive been climbing for a month or so, three times a week (tuesday, thursday, saturday, other days are rest days). At this point I have a pretty good idea of how strong my hands are and what I can normally do, but today for some reason my hands felt abnormally weak. I couldn't pull off holds I know I've nailed before. Has anyone else had this experience? It was cold in the gym and I have a narly cut on my big toe that was KILLING me today... could that have played a part?
After one month you don't really have a good idea for what your hands can do. If you've only been climbing for a month then you're probably still using your hands and arms more than your core and legs, the latter of which are generally more important and most likely to be used more as you learn how to climb.
If I had to guess then I'd say you're probably over-gripping at times and that is catching up to you. Start using your legs to push more instead of your arms and hands for pulling. Also learn about open-grips, and learn to use your hands more for balance than for climbing.
I know that last sentence sounds odd, but I couldn't think of a better way to explain it. Yes, your hands are important, but they are not as important as a beginner thinks they are.
Oh yeah, and high gravity days are a bitch.
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aprice00
Dec 2, 2011, 2:55 PM
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iknowfear wrote: my tip: skip the next session (giving you a rest day more)
I try to climb every other day as well but from time to time your body tells you that you need an extra recovery day. You should listen to it.
An extra few days works wonders for me I usually come back stronger that pre-hiatus and It makes you want it more by denying your self what you like to do.
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turbofeedus
Dec 2, 2011, 3:54 PM
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alright, worth a shot. i usually get two days between saturday and tuesday, but I'll just switch it and climb on Sunday, see if it makes a difference.
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ZeroContent
Dec 2, 2011, 4:03 PM
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Stretch after climbing and off days. Hydration and nutrition make a big difference too. Piss clear and 4:1 (if you can) carbs:protein after working out (during if going more than an hour).
Also I find a quick jog to get the blood pumping helps my grip strength. Figured this out after wondering why I could climb 8 hours outside but not at the gym then I figured out the 20 minute hike from the parking lot to the crag then hiking between crags kept my cardio up, more blood, oxygen and energy to the muscles.
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shockabuku
Dec 2, 2011, 4:33 PM
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ZeroContent wrote: Stretch after climbing and off days. Hydration and nutrition make a big difference too. Piss clear and 4:1 (if you can) carbs:protein after working out (during if going more than an hour). Also I find a quick jog to get the blood pumping helps my grip strength. Figured this out after wondering why I could climb 8 hours outside but not at the gym then I figured out the 20 minute hike from the parking lot to the crag then hiking between crags kept my cardio up, more blood, oxygen and energy to the muscles.
Or maybe it's the fact that at the gym you climb so much, in a much shorter time period, usually at higher intensities, in comparison to outdoors, that you just wear out correspondingly faster.
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ChalkIsCheap
Dec 2, 2011, 5:17 PM
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turbofeedus wrote: alright, worth a shot. i usually get two days between saturday and tuesday, but I'll just switch it and climb on Sunday, see if it makes a difference.
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gunkiemike
Dec 2, 2011, 8:47 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: turbofeedus wrote: New here, wanted to share my experiences today. Ive been climbing for a month or so, three times a week (tuesday, thursday, saturday, other days are rest days). At this point I have a pretty good idea of how strong my hands are and what I can normally do, but today for some reason my hands felt abnormally weak. I couldn't pull off holds I know I've nailed before. Has anyone else had this experience? It was cold in the gym and I have a narly cut on my big toe that was KILLING me today... could that have played a part? After one month you don't really have a good idea for what your hands can do.
My first reaction as well.
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jeepnphreak
Dec 2, 2011, 11:01 PM
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Dont sweat it. Every one has days that they feel stronger and weaker. it migt be dehydtraion, food in take or many other possibilitys.
Let see here I cant really say that you had a bad day climbing. My worst day of climbing resulted in 3 screws in my shoulder and a stitched up rotator cuff.
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Kartessa
Dec 4, 2011, 1:05 AM
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ChalkIsCheap wrote: turbofeedus wrote: alright, worth a shot. i usually get two days between saturday and tuesday, but I'll just switch it and climb on Sunday, see if it makes a difference. Sunday mornings are when I climb the best, they are when I plan my redpoint attempts. I don't know why buy I have come to accept it. I'm guessing it has to do with the extra time off from other climbing days (tuesday thursday) and more time off from the regular work week. Also a great sunday morning breakfast and more then the usual 5 hours sleep I usually get on weekdays. Give Sunday mornings a try, hopefully that helps.
C'mon dude, 5.6 hangdogs in the gym arent "redpoints"
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cclarke
Dec 4, 2011, 1:29 AM
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Fortunately, climbing isn't a simple mathematical function where you can get a specific result just by doing certain training exercises. If it were, most of us would probably get pretty bored with it. I'm not saying you shouldn't try to train in a smart manner but, particularly once you get away from the gym, there's enough going on that your ability to climb a given grade will vary a lot whether you measure it day to day or decade to decade.
So, if you expect monotonic improvement as measured by climbing grades, you are bound for disappointment.
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turbofeedus
Dec 4, 2011, 4:34 PM
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i don't expect monotonic improvement. i saw a pattern in my hand strength and then saw it drop off significantly for no immediately apparent reason. i was curious to see if anyone shared a similar experience.
EDIT: went climbing today, gravity is back to normal.
(This post was edited by turbofeedus on Dec 5, 2011, 2:58 AM)
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ChalkIsCheap
Dec 6, 2011, 1:10 PM
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Kartessa wrote: ChalkIsCheap wrote: turbofeedus wrote: alright, worth a shot. i usually get two days between saturday and tuesday, but I'll just switch it and climb on Sunday, see if it makes a difference. Sunday mornings are when I climb the best, they are when I plan my redpoint attempts. I don't know why buy I have come to accept it. I'm guessing it has to do with the extra time off from other climbing days (tuesday thursday) and more time off from the regular work week. Also a great sunday morning breakfast and more then the usual 5 hours sleep I usually get on weekdays. Give Sunday mornings a try, hopefully that helps. C'mon dude, 5.6 hangdogs in the gym arent "redpoints"
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