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SillyG
Dec 7, 2011, 4:31 PM
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I'm interested in purchasing a minimalist harness that's specialized for sport/gym climbing and was wondering if folks had any recommendations.
The key factors for me on this decision are harness weight and non-adjustable leg loops that fit snugly.
I've got a Petzl Corax for a general use harness, and that I'm keeping to loan to friends that are new to the sport. This purchase is for a high end specialty rig; I'm willing to spend up to $200.
I was thinking about a BD Ozone or Chaos. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Sillyg
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SylviaSmile
Dec 7, 2011, 4:40 PM
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I've heard Arc'teryx has good harnesses; my next harness is probably going to be from them.
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SylviaSmile
Dec 7, 2011, 4:42 PM
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SylviaSmile wrote: I've heard Arc'teryx has good harnesses; my next harness is probably going to be from them.
Which I realize is neither here nor there--but I want an Arc'teryx R280, and I'm not really sure what the men's version of that is.
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tolman_paul
Dec 7, 2011, 6:22 PM
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Seems like a waste of money to me. It's not like shaving a few ounces from a harness is going to allow you to ascend harder grades. But you will notice a minimal harness dig into you while working a route as well as not having as many gear loops as you'd like.
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rsd212
Dec 7, 2011, 6:41 PM
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tolman_paul wrote: Seems like a waste of money to me. It's not like shaving a few ounces from a harness is going to allow you to ascend harder grades. But you will notice a minimal harness dig into you while working a route as well as not having as many gear loops as you'd like.
Chaos has 4 gear loops plus haul loop. Its not as light as a similarly-equipped Arcteryx, but packs nicer and weighs less than my Mammut or other BD harnesses do. I've done multipitch with all hanging belays and its still comfy, so it definitely can handle hangdogging.
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lena_chita
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Dec 7, 2011, 7:17 PM
Post #6 of 18
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SillyG wrote: I'm interested in purchasing a minimalist harness that's specialized for sport/gym climbing and was wondering if folks had any recommendations. The key factors for me on this decision are harness weight and non-adjustable leg loops that fit snugly. I've got a Petzl Corax for a general use harness, and that I'm keeping to loan to friends that are new to the sport. This purchase is for a high end specialty rig; I'm willing to spend up to $200. I was thinking about a BD Ozone or Chaos. Any thoughts? Thanks! Sillyg
I am not sure what thoughts you are looking for. Are you looking for opinion on the harnesses, suggestions to which model to buy?
BD Ozone and Chaos are good harnesses, if they fit you. They both don't weigh much, but Chaos is marketed as a trad harness with all-day comfort on the route, and ozone is marketed for it's super-light weight (it is 80g lighter than Chaos, according to the specs for medium size).
Ark'teryx also makes a very good lightweight harness, comparable in weight to Ozone.
But IMO if your Petzl Corax is in good shape (sounds like it is, if you are planning to loaning it to friends) and fits you well, then buying a new harness of either model seems like an unnecessary waste of money, until your harness needs replacement. I am having a hard time imagining what specialized rig requires only non-adjustable leg loops and super-light weight.
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SillyG
Dec 7, 2011, 7:35 PM
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lena_chita wrote: I am not sure what thoughts you are looking for. Are you looking for opinion on the harnesses, suggestions to which model to buy? BD Ozone and Chaos are good harnesses, if they fit you. They both don't weigh much, but Chaos is marketed as a trad harness with all-day comfort on the route, and ozone is marketed for it's super-light weight (it is 80g lighter than Chaos, according to the specs for medium size). Ark'teryx also makes a very good lightweight harness, comparable in weight to Ozone. But IMO if your Petzl Corax is in good shape (sounds like it is, if you are planning to loaning it to friends) and fits you well, then buying a new harness of either model seems like an unnecessary waste of money, until your harness needs replacement. I am having a hard time imagining what specialized rig requires only non-adjustable leg loops and super-light weight.
I want to have a backup set of basic gear (ATC, shoes, harness) that I can loan to friends when I take them out to the gym or top-roping. Since I already have a Cortex, I wanted to get something that wan't overly redundant. Since my climbing is split 70/30 gym/sport, I figured I'd get something specialized.
Just wanted to gather some feedback on what people like and don't like in the ultra-light space before making a purchase.
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bearbreeder
Dec 7, 2011, 7:44 PM
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i blew threw 3 dead bird 350a harnesses in 2-3 years ... the lower tie in loop and the drop seat kept wearing out much too fast ... i just wear my old BD harness now and im not climbing any worse
unless you want the yuppie or show off factor ... i wouldnt worry about "high end" harnesses ... i dont know anyone who couldnt send something because they werent wearing a harness a few oz lighter, rather than having better technique or being a bit stronger
the most important thing is that a harness fits properly, has the features you need and last a decently long time ... weight is more important for the alpine as is packability
harnesses is the one place in climbing NOT to waste too much money ... they dont help you climb any better .. unlike shoes 
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markcarlson
Dec 7, 2011, 8:29 PM
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I agree with bearbreeder, you will wear out the lower tie-in point and the belay loop on an Arc'teryx harness pretty quick using it in the gym and sport climbing. I have a dedicated gym harness so I don't wear out my 350a too fast.
Mammut seems to have a good solution to this problem, although I haven't tried it out yet.
If I were to get a dedicated sport/gym harness, I'd try out the Edelrid Loopo and see how it fits.
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shockabuku
Dec 7, 2011, 8:41 PM
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The plastic harness tie-in piece for the Mammut harnesses works pretty well. I've had one for about a year and no problems.
I saw someone with the Edelrid Loopo harness last year some time. She said it's very comfortable but she quit wearing it after a short time; not sure why. I only saw her with it in the gym. It looks impractical to put any number of draws on it based on the lack of a real waistbelt.
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walkonyourhands
Dec 7, 2011, 9:43 PM
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Get a Petzl Hirundos if it fits you. Most comfortable Harness I've ever had, it's light and packs really small. I'm using it for everything from gym to alpine and trad.
You can send the 100 bucks you're saving to me then.
That is, if the color doesn't offend you.
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acorneau
Dec 8, 2011, 3:29 AM
Post #13 of 18
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SillyG wrote: I'm interested in purchasing a minimalist harness that's specialized for sport/gym climbing and was wondering if folks had any recommendations. The key factors for me on this decision are harness weight and non-adjustable leg loops that fit snugly.
Get 20 feet of 1" webbing and tie a swiss seat.
Doesn't get much more minimal than that.
(Well, a swami belt would be even more minimal but it doesn't completely meet your criteria.)
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dagibbs
Dec 8, 2011, 3:50 PM
Post #14 of 18
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SillyG wrote: I want to have a backup set of basic gear (ATC, shoes, harness) that I can loan to friends when I take them out to the gym or top-roping.
In that case, I'd buy a harness designed for great adjustibility, the kind of harness a gym has, with really long adjustments for leg & waist loops, that way you can take friends of highly varying sizes out. But, buy it as a loaner harness. These types aren't the most comfortable, but they do tend to be pretty cheap, usually well under $100.
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billcoe_
Dec 8, 2011, 8:34 PM
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The Misty Mountain Bolt has everything but the high price. http://mistymountain.com/p/5086-Womens-Bolt.htm
12.25 ounces. Just under $80. It's nice to actually go to the local climbing store, clip off to to a ceiling point and actually hang in one. I did it when I wanted a Black Diamond years back: I spent @$5 more and walked out with my first (I have 3 now) Misty Mountain Harness when I found it so much more comfortable. DESPITE LOOKING TO BE DEAD NUTS ON IDENTICAL TO MY EYEBALL! Seriously, they looked the same when I examined them closely while side by side, but the BD actually hurt my ....my...... it hurt after a few min, while the Misty still felt good. I tried repositioning etc etc, nope. The Misty was actually more comfortable. I still remember that moment every time I'm in a hanging belay and my partner is on hour 2 or 3 to get through a single pitch:-) I once was 8 hours in a hanging belay belaying the leader. arrrrrgghhhh!
In reply to: "Women's Bolt New for 2011, the sleek, stylish Women's Bolt is as versatile as it is light, with the DNA of trad harnesses running through it's sport climbing harness veins. Think lightening bolt fast. Think climbing from bolt to bolt all the way to the top, putting it all together into a send. Designed to beat the burn and clip the shuts, the Bolt's lightweight cambered shape and radically tapered leg loops bely the comfortable design and solid construction. Great for running laps in the gym during the week and red-pointing overhanging projects on weekends, the Bolt is equipped with a quick-adjust waist buckle, four tubular webbing reinforced gear loops, closed cell polyethylene foam core, and 1000 denier nylon outer for abrasion resistance. Reinforced tie-in points, super strong dual layer nylon belay/rappel loop, and smooth ClimbSpec buckle webbing complete this light, sturdy climbing harness, which isn't afraid of ice or alpine either. Just remember, for best results, Misty Mountain's Bolt climbing harness has to be recharged at regular intervals by cranking all the way to the shuts!"
ps, I'm talkin' Misty Mountain generally, I've not even seen this harness. I have 2 Sonics and a Cadillac. Plus, I'm not female although I often have PMS like moments. So - go hang in some yourself and see what you like.
(This post was edited by billcoe_ on Dec 8, 2011, 8:36 PM)
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Colinhoglund
Dec 8, 2011, 10:45 PM
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I use a hurundos, but not because of it's weight. It fit me the best out of all the petzl harness, so thats what I bought. I've seen many an Arcteryx harness wear out really soon, the lover loop is thin. My hurundos is over a year old now and looks no worse for wear (I climb 100+ days a year indoor/out). Fit is key, weight comes after.
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treemonkey
Dec 9, 2011, 5:28 AM
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I have the zephir and love it
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ashley1_scott
Dec 10, 2011, 2:13 PM
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I would strongly advice if you are looking at the Loopo (http://edelridna.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29804 )
That you try them on first, I have one and yes it is light and comfortable, but you really need to put it on and see the size fits first.
To give you some idea I have a 31" waist but have 22.5" legs, and hade to go for the medium to fit both
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