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Carabiners for bolt anchor points
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scubasteve506


Dec 7, 2011, 4:24 PM
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Carabiners for bolt anchor points
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I was wondering does it matter the metal of the carabiner used for clipping into a bolt? Should they be locking or does it matter? I figured steel were the safer bet but more expensive for a college student like me. I apologize if this has been discussed alot, I couldn't find it in a search. Also, how many times should I wrap webbing around a tree for an anchor? I also have two 1/2" quick links for to go from the webbing to the rope...would this be good, they are rated to 3300 a piece and would provide enough shear reduction.
Thanks!


sonso45


Dec 7, 2011, 4:35 PM
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Re: [scubasteve506] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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Sounds like you may be in need of a book at least and taking a climbing course would be best.

I can tell you have done some research but it sounds like wrapping a tree with webbing and using quick links to top rope is what you are doing. That is not a common usage and may get you in trouble.

Steel carabiners are mainly used for rescue. Nearly all climbing shops will sell you the proper gear if you ask them.


scubasteve506


Dec 7, 2011, 4:59 PM
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Re: [sonso45] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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I am working on a getting a book... but I thought I would ask real climbers. The wedding is for top rope climbing and rappelling. At the ropes course it was ACCT acceptable to use 1" quick links, so I figured 2 would work just as well. The webbing would be backed up, by another to a seperate tree.


shoo


Dec 7, 2011, 5:05 PM
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Re: [scubasteve506] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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scubasteve506 wrote:
I am working on a getting a book... but I thought I would ask real climbers. The wedding is for top rope climbing and rappelling. At the ropes course it was ACCT acceptable to use 1" quick links, so I figured 2 would work just as well. The webbing would be backed up, by another to a seperate tree.

You should be asking real LIVE climbers, not people on the internet.


scubasteve506


Dec 7, 2011, 5:28 PM
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Re: [shoo] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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I am, but I feel it's always better to get more than one person's opinion.


LostinMaine


Dec 7, 2011, 5:53 PM
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Re: [scubasteve506] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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scubasteve506 wrote:
I was wondering does it matter the metal of the carabiner used for clipping into a bolt?
Yes.
In reply to:
Should they be locking or does it matter?
I'm not really sure what this question is asking, so let's go with "probably."

In reply to:
I figured steel were the safer bet but more expensive for a college student like me. I apologize if this has been discussed alot, I couldn't find it in a search.
Why is steel safer? At some point, the difference between hanging a car and hanging a bus from 2 bolts becomes moot.

In reply to:
Also, how many times should I wrap webbing around a tree for an anchor?
What kind of tree and what color webbing? If it's red webbing, at least twice. If it's a burr oak, no less than 3 times.

In reply to:
I also have two 1/2" quick links for to go from the webbing to the rope...would this be good, they are rated to 3300 a piece and would provide enough shear reduction.
Shear reduction?

In reply to:
Thanks!
Welcome.


If you're really a college student, please think about the questions you want to ask and try to phrase them in a way that can garner a decent response. If you can't do this, you absolutely MUST pick up an intro book to help you learn enough to ask an informed question.


scubasteve506


Dec 7, 2011, 6:26 PM
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Should the carabiner be locking, as in a screwgate or triact or nonlocking?

I know enough to not mix steel and aluminum. I don't know what kind of metal the bolts are made out of, and so I wouldn't know which metal to use. Should the carabiners I use be aluminum or steel?

The webbing I have is blue.

Shear Reduction is reducing the strain on the rope over a point in which the rope curves. More shear reduction puts less strain on the rope.

I do apologize for the way I have worded my questions, I have simply used my knowledge from my challenge course training and things I have picked up from climbers and research.


marc801


Dec 7, 2011, 10:10 PM
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Re: [scubasteve506] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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scubasteve506 wrote:
Should the carabiner be locking, as in a screwgate or triact or nonlocking?

I know enough to not mix steel and aluminum. I don't know what kind of metal the bolts are made out of, and so I wouldn't know which metal to use. Should the carabiners I use be aluminum or steel?

The webbing I have is blue.

Shear Reduction is reducing the strain on the rope over a point in which the rope curves. More shear reduction puts less strain on the rope.

I do apologize for the way I have worded my questions, I have simply used my knowledge from my challenge course training and things I have picked up from climbers and research.
You have only fragmentary knowledge, and little concept of what you are trying to do. At the moment, you are unable to phrase even basic questions. Get qualified instruction before you kill yourself or others.

And what you learned in a ropes course is only tangentially applicable. For example, bolt hangers are made of steel. Biners are aluminum - this is standard. There is no issue of mixing the metals since they're not in contact long enough. No one uses steel biners except for rescue and certain other situations. The vast majority of climbers don't even own a steel biner.


vinnie83


Dec 7, 2011, 10:24 PM
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Re: [scubasteve506] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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Using lockers or non lockers depends on the situation they are being used in, but you can safely build an anchor with non lockers.

Buy aluminum carabiners, mixing steel and aluminum is not a concern.

If whatever you're running the rope through is at all rounded (like a carabiner) shear stress isn't a concern.

Buy some yellow webbing if you can, its the strongest.

I don't know the first thing about ropes courses, but you might be better off not applying anything these people taught you to climbing and just getting freedom of the hills.


donwanadi


Dec 8, 2011, 4:07 AM
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Re: [vinnie83] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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vinnie83 wrote:
.

Buy some yellow webbing if you can, its the strongest.

You sure as hell didn't read that in Freedom of the Hills. Pirate


markc


Dec 8, 2011, 6:51 AM
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Re: [scubasteve506] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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scubasteve506 wrote:
I am working on a getting a book... but I thought I would ask real climbers.

Best line ever.


sp115


Dec 8, 2011, 8:46 AM
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Re: [markc] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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markc wrote:
scubasteve506 wrote:
I am working on a getting a book... but I thought I would ask real climbers.

Best line ever.

heh, heh, gotta agree.

To the OP: it's book-1st, gear-2nd. So go buy "the book" and report back.


jacques


Dec 8, 2011, 9:57 AM
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Re: [scubasteve506] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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scubasteve506 wrote:
I am working on a getting a book... but I thought I would ask real climbers. The wedding is for top rope climbing and rappelling.

I never do top rope with my girl friend again!!!


Partner j_ung


Dec 8, 2011, 11:32 AM
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Re: [scubasteve506] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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scubasteve506 wrote:
I know enough to not mix steel and aluminum. I don't know what kind of metal the bolts are made out of, and so I wouldn't know which metal to use. Should the carabiners I use be aluminum or steel?

Bi-metal corrosion is only a concern when mixed metals will be in contact with each other over long periods of time. In your case, you can use whichever you'd prefer.


Partner cracklover


Dec 8, 2011, 2:24 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
scubasteve506 wrote:
I know enough to not mix steel and aluminum. I don't know what kind of metal the bolts are made out of, and so I wouldn't know which metal to use. Should the carabiners I use be aluminum or steel?

Bi-metal corrosion is only a concern when mixed metals will be in contact with each other over long periods of time. In your case, you can use whichever you'd prefer.

This is why we can't discuss this stuff in the beginners forum.

To the OP - just so you know, what Jay says is true, except that like in many climbing situations, there are exceptions. In this case, the exception is when you use blue webbing. The chemical that makes the webbing blue acts as a strong catalyst for galvanic corrosion, so even a little moisture in the air, and both your carabiner and the bolt hanger may develop bad pitting and cracking.

It's a good thing you posted, but really, you should read a book. You probably haven't even thought to check important things like how many pieces of red gear you have.

GO


herites


Dec 8, 2011, 3:03 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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The saying "red onez go fastah" can be applied to rock climbing too. If you got many red pieces it'll improve your climbing. Also, if you ever need a little boost to your skill just put on beanie and take off your shirt. You WILL send.


LostinMaine


Dec 8, 2011, 4:48 PM
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Re: [scubasteve506] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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scubasteve506 wrote:
Shear Reduction is reducing the strain on the rope over a point in which the rope curves. More shear reduction puts less strain on the rope.

Shear reduction and rope strain... here we go. Coming soon- a quick lesson on fall factors, resultant forces, friction, "energy absorption," and pulley effects...


tH1e-swiN1e


Dec 9, 2011, 2:04 PM
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Re: [LostinMaine] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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wow


ianwatson


Dec 12, 2011, 9:47 AM
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Im in shock no one said your GONNA DIE!!! grab a copy of freedom of the hills and a good anchor book and you will have the tools to not kill yourself.


Partner j_ung


Dec 12, 2011, 10:28 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Carabiners for bolt anchor points [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
j_ung wrote:
scubasteve506 wrote:
I know enough to not mix steel and aluminum. I don't know what kind of metal the bolts are made out of, and so I wouldn't know which metal to use. Should the carabiners I use be aluminum or steel?

Bi-metal corrosion is only a concern when mixed metals will be in contact with each other over long periods of time. In your case, you can use whichever you'd prefer.

This is why we can't discuss this stuff in the beginners forum.

To the OP - just so you know, what Jay says is true, except that like in many climbing situations, there are exceptions. In this case, the exception is when you use blue webbing. The chemical that makes the webbing blue acts as a strong catalyst for galvanic corrosion, so even a little moisture in the air, and both your carabiner and the bolt hanger may develop bad pitting and cracking.

It's a good thing you posted, but really, you should read a book. You probably haven't even thought to check important things like how many pieces of red gear you have.

GO

I'm going to need to see some test data on this. Laugh


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