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ID/Would you trust this anchor?
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agdavis


Dec 11, 2011, 3:53 PM
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ID/Would you trust this anchor?
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Came across a series of these anchors today. Can you identify it? If so, approximately how old? Also, would you trust it?

As you can see, I threw some webbing/rap rings just to be safe. I couldn't trust running my rope through a single rusted chain link.

Edit: I have no idea why the image got rotated after uploading...




(This post was edited by agdavis on Dec 11, 2011, 4:26 PM)
Attachments: photo (6).JPG (36.1 KB)


USnavy


Dec 11, 2011, 4:07 PM
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Re: [agdavis] ID/Would you trust this anchor? [In reply to]
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Well its obviously in need of replacement. The chain, bolts and hangers appear to be suffering from everyday uniform corrosion. The hangers are homemade. My biggest concern would not be with the chain, but with the actual bolts. Severe uniform corrosion can fix the expansion clip to the stud of the bolt which would deny mechanical movement of the clip resulting in a potentially very dangerous bolt. Moderate and minor uniform corrosion does not normally result in a critical loss of strength in items like chain and hangers. Thats why I said I would be concerned with the bolts the most. But yes, assuming I did not learn anything new looking at this anchor in person, I would use it for a single use.

You could always clip into the anchor and aggressively bounce test it if you have pro nearby with a safe fall. This would ensure its likely strong enough to lower off of.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Dec 11, 2011, 9:01 PM)


potreroed


Dec 11, 2011, 7:27 PM
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Re: [agdavis] ID/Would you trust this anchor? [In reply to]
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That anchor definitely needs to be replaced, even though it will probably stand up to another thousand rappels.


agdavis


Dec 11, 2011, 7:33 PM
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Re: [potreroed] ID/Would you trust this anchor? [In reply to]
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potreroed wrote:
That anchor definitely needs to be replaced, even though it will probably stand up to another thousand rappels.

Would you take a moderate lead fall on it?


shockabuku


Dec 11, 2011, 8:25 PM
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Re: [agdavis] ID/Would you trust this anchor? [In reply to]
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agdavis wrote:
potreroed wrote:
That anchor definitely needs to be replaced, even though it will probably stand up to another thousand rappels.

Would you take a moderate lead fall on it?

It would never be my choice to take a lead fall on my anchor.

I probably wouldn't want to use this as anything more than a lowering anchor. Not even TR; those bolts are sketchy.


(This post was edited by shockabuku on Dec 11, 2011, 8:27 PM)


hobo_climber


Dec 11, 2011, 11:48 PM
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Re: [agdavis] ID/Would you trust this anchor? [In reply to]
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agdavis wrote:
As you can see, I threw some webbing/rap rings just to be safe. I couldn't trust running my rope through a single rusted chain link.
There is absolutly ZERO difference between adding webbing/rap rings, and running the rope through the chain link. both systems rely entirely on the strength of the bolts. which with that amount of corrosion on the chain are probably F**Ked.

wouldn't top rope on that anchor. wouldn't even lower of it. rap/abseil quickly and smoothly without the stop/bounce motion then return the next day with bolt puller, drill, and shiny new stainless steel.


USnavy


Dec 12, 2011, 12:03 AM
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Re: [hobo_climber] ID/Would you trust this anchor? [In reply to]
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hobo_climber wrote:
agdavis wrote:
As you can see, I threw some webbing/rap rings just to be safe. I couldn't trust running my rope through a single rusted chain link.
There is absolutly ZERO difference between adding webbing/rap rings, and running the rope through the chain link. both systems rely entirely on the strength of the bolts.
I think the reason why he backed it up was he was afraid of the chain failing, not the bolts.

agdavis wrote:
which with that amount of corrosion on the chain are probably F**Ked.

Chain that is suffering from moderate uniform corrosion is generally still fairly strong. I have tested 1/4" proof chain that looked as bad as the chain in this picture and it still held well over 2000 lbs per side. The main thing I would be concerned with would be the bolts.

Also, if you are lowering off a questionable anchor, hauling ass down it is not normally the wisest approach. You want to take it slow and smooth, trying not to bounce or change speed.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Dec 12, 2011, 12:07 AM)


hobo_climber


Dec 12, 2011, 1:07 AM
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Re: [USnavy] ID/Would you trust this anchor? [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
Also, if you are lowering off a questionable anchor, hauling ass down it is not normally the wisest approach. You want to take it slow and smooth, trying not to bounce or change speed.

abseiling and lowering are two different things. i already said i wouldn't lower of these anchors, i'd abseil.
As to fast or slow it doesn't make a difference as long as you don't stop and bounce.
personally, i'd be hauling arse to get of the dam anchor as fast as possible!


jt512


Dec 12, 2011, 10:50 AM
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Re: [agdavis] ID/Would you trust this anchor? [In reply to]
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agdavis wrote:
Would you take a moderate lead fall on it?

No.


Partner j_ung


Dec 12, 2011, 11:50 AM
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Re: [agdavis] ID/Would you trust this anchor? [In reply to]
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agdavis wrote:
potreroed wrote:
That anchor definitely needs to be replaced, even though it will probably stand up to another thousand rappels.

Would you take a moderate lead fall on it?

What, like on purpose? No. But I might risk one by climbing above it.


(This post was edited by j_ung on Dec 12, 2011, 11:52 AM)


trenchdigger


Dec 12, 2011, 1:11 PM
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Re: [agdavis] ID/Would you trust this anchor? [In reply to]
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Looks like Mission Gorge rock. What route?


agdavis


Dec 12, 2011, 1:27 PM
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Re: [trenchdigger] ID/Would you trust this anchor? [In reply to]
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trenchdigger wrote:
Looks like Mission Gorge rock. What route?

Good observation, you are correct.

I'm not sure of the exact route, but its directly to the left of Nutcracker and on the left-facing face in the little cubby area. Not very accessible from above. We were doing Mission Gorge Traverse, and encountered two of these rusty anchors on Main Wall routes.

I'm a bit surprised that these anchors are still here, considering Mission Gorge is such a popular place and the Main Wall gets climbed alot. Then again, the routes that contained these anchors are pretty tough and maybe they are seldom climbed.


tolman_paul


Dec 12, 2011, 3:52 PM
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Re: [agdavis] ID/Would you trust this anchor? [In reply to]
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I've rapped off of similar anchors without giving it much thought. I wouldn't rate it as bomber, rap without fear, but it looks better than many anchors I've rapped off of over the years.

Really the only way to evaluate it is to do a destructive pull test on it. My guess would be it would fail at over 1000#, and I wouldn't be at all suprised if it held 2000#. But this is all based on looking at a small picture on the net vs. inspecting it in person.


shockabuku


Dec 12, 2011, 7:21 PM
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Re: [hobo_climber] ID/Would you trust this anchor? [In reply to]
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hobo_climber wrote:
USnavy wrote:
Also, if you are lowering off a questionable anchor, hauling ass down it is not normally the wisest approach. You want to take it slow and smooth, trying not to bounce or change speed.

abseiling and lowering are two different things. i already said i wouldn't lower of these anchors, i'd abseil.
As to fast or slow it doesn't make a difference as long as you don't stop and bounce.
personally, i'd be hauling arse to get of the dam anchor as fast as possible!

It doesn't matter how fast you go, it matters how much you slow down and how quickly. So, if you inadvertently get a snarl below you as you are rapping fast and jerk to a halt you put a much larger load on the anchor than if you were moving slowly and jerked to a halt for the same reason. Also, if you're moving slowly you're probably less likely to have to halt suddenly. So slower is probably safer.


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