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mushroom


Dec 12, 2011, 9:26 AM
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NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS
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(This post was edited by mushroom on Dec 22, 2011, 3:27 AM)


mushroom


Dec 12, 2011, 9:26 AM
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NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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Ground Rules
By POSTING on this thread you hereby agree to these Ground Rules:

1. No OFF TOPIC posting
***2. No quoting. I mean this! You will single handedly ruin the feng-shui of this thread!
3. Be sensitive about what words you use. 'Difficult' doesn't exist in this thread.
4. Seize the opportunity to share something of value!


(This post was edited by mushroom on Dec 12, 2011, 3:33 PM)


mr.tastycakes


Dec 12, 2011, 9:49 AM
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Re: [mushroom] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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What?


lena_chita
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Dec 12, 2011, 10:03 AM
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Re: [mr.tastycakes] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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memo number 1:

Your posting technique suffers greatly while on mushrooms. Presumably climbing technique does the same.


mushroom


Dec 12, 2011, 3:24 PM
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NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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(This post was edited by mushroom on Dec 22, 2011, 3:27 AM)


jt512


Dec 12, 2011, 4:00 PM
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Re: [mushroom] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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A climber called "Mushroom" complained
That routes on the East Coast are lame,
He said, "The West is the best,"
But his posts are a mess,
And he only has mushrooms to blame.


onceahardman


Dec 12, 2011, 4:21 PM
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Re: [jt512] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
A climber called "Mushroom" complained
That routes on the East Coast are lame,
He said, "The West is the best,"
But his posts are a mess,
And he only has mushrooms to blame.

A well-played limerick! kudos!


How about a haiku:


Not East Coast, but west

attempting to be funny

poor little mushroom.


SylviaSmile


Dec 13, 2011, 7:32 AM
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Re: [onceahardman] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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Oh no, you did it . . . you single handedly ruined the feng shui of this thread.


johnwesely


Dec 13, 2011, 8:50 AM
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Re: [SylviaSmile] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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SylviaSmile wrote:
Oh no, you did it . . . you singlehandedly ruined the feng shui of this thread.[/quote

What about now?
In reply to:


donwanadi


Dec 13, 2011, 7:34 PM
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NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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It's like you took a class in late night infomercial writing and snake oil sales tactics. Pirate

I wonder if you learned about the class from a sketchy late night infomercial.... Crazy


(This post was edited by donwanadi on Dec 13, 2011, 7:36 PM)


SylviaSmile


Dec 14, 2011, 5:52 AM
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Re: [donwanadi] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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donwanadi wrote:
It's like you took a class in late night infomercial writing and snake oil sales tactics. Pirate

I wonder if you learned about the class from a sketchy late night infomercial.... Crazy

Haha! I am actually intrigued by the training method, but I feel simultaneously intimidated and alarmed by the prospect of being in such a physical condition that "the only stimulus left is the UNMERCIFUL COMPOUNDING FORCES OF GRAVITY to tear muscle fibers." Eek!


mushroom


Dec 15, 2011, 4:08 PM
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NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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(This post was edited by mushroom on Dec 22, 2011, 3:28 AM)


cclarke


Dec 15, 2011, 5:30 PM
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Re: [mushroom] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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Why are you focusing on pull ups? I think you get little bang for your buck once you can do 10 in a row.

What are your climbing goals?

If you want to do ice climbing, I would spend more time hanging on your tools with some lock offs.

And, if you really live in Cody, just go ice climbing.


(This post was edited by cclarke on Dec 15, 2011, 5:52 PM)


olderic


Dec 16, 2011, 6:46 AM
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Re: [mushroom] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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mushroom wrote:
Climbing is pull-ups.

Fail


donwanadi


Dec 16, 2011, 10:26 AM
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Re: [mushroom] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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mushroom wrote:
a. it is in my basement
b. it has grips: sloper, pockets, ledges, jugs (my fav!)
c. exposed wires, clothes line, and unmarked PVC pipes make each pull-up an adventure in itself
!

Please tell me you are doing pullups from a 3 or 4 inch diameter unmarked PVC pipe in your basement. That would be amazing.


(This post was edited by donwanadi on Dec 16, 2011, 10:27 AM)


DouglasHunter


Dec 16, 2011, 11:59 AM
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Re: [olderic] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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olderic wrote:
mushroom wrote:
Climbing is pull-ups.

Fail

Olderic I think you are being too generous. It's more like a super-double-fail-with-fail-sauce-and-a-side-order-of-fail-served-on-a-leafy-bed-of-fail.


olderic


Dec 16, 2011, 12:19 PM
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Re: [DouglasHunter] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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DouglasHunter wrote:
olderic wrote:
mushroom wrote:
Climbing is pull-ups.

Fail

Olderic I think you are being too generous. It's more like a super-double-fail-with-fail-sauce-and-a-side-order-of-fail-served-on-a-leafy-bed-of-fail.

one might say "epic"?


DouglasHunter


Dec 16, 2011, 12:22 PM
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Re: [olderic] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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olderic wrote:
DouglasHunter wrote:
olderic wrote:
mushroom wrote:
Climbing is pull-ups.

Fail

Olderic I think you are being too generous. It's more like a super-double-fail-with-fail-sauce-and-a-side-order-of-fail-served-on-a-leafy-bed-of-fail.

one might say "epic"?

SmileSmileSmile


dudemanbu


Dec 16, 2011, 5:59 PM
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Re: [DouglasHunter] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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/subscribe

This is good stuff.


Kartessa


Dec 16, 2011, 6:14 PM
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Re: [mushroom] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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I don't know if it was because I'm high as a kite, but I found his posts kinda funny.


SylviaSmile


Dec 16, 2011, 11:22 PM
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Re: [Kartessa] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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Maybe I have diet on the brain or something (hmm), but I really was expecting something different underneath "Nick reveals the breakfast, lunch, and dinner of a 5.10 climber." I was looking for something FOOD based. What do you actually eat? Raw eggs?


mushroom


Dec 17, 2011, 12:58 PM
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Re: [DouglasHunter] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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Episode 3 DouglasHunter and olderic AKA MASTERS OF MYSTICISM

Humble Readers and Listeners, I foremost forgive DouglasHunter and olderic. Being incredible climbers, sometimes their lack of attention to those climbing 5.10 gets them ahead of themselves.

Nick Presents SHEEP STARE:


Photo By Bryson Slothower
Sheep Stare, Ten Sleep Canyon

I asked an outsider two questions:
a. Is this climbing? Yes.
b. Could you do that without doing a pull-up? No.

Dearest DouglasHunter and olderic, I pray you pay more attention when you read my memos. The words I choose to write are picked very specifically. If you try to understand them in the broadest sense, you will loose their meaning entirely. My words are chosen to represent very specific real-world cases! Climbing undoubtedly requires pull-up strength! Fucking fools--shut-up already!

TRAINING REQUIRES HARD SCIENCE BASED ON RIGID PRINCIPLES OF THE REAL-WORLD, NOT JUST MYSTIC CONCEPTIONS OF CLIMBING.



Nick forgives thee:

DouglasHunter and olderic, I forgive you, foremost. I believe I know you.

Perhaps in suffering your way to the top of 5.13, you have lost focus on the ULTIMATE PURPOSE of climbing. At this level, humble 5.10, there is still lots of emphasis on RIGIDITY OF SCIENTIFIC PRINCIPLE as well as your MYSTICISM. Please, remember the needs of others in your romp through reality.

I worry that if I were to give away the ULTIMATE PURPOSE right now, someone (maybe YOU!) would explode!--like characters in Dogma seeing God, you'd explode.

Thank-you, DouglasHunter and olderic, for this LESSON ON IMPORTANCE OF RIGOROUS SCIENCE IN TRAINING TECHNIQUE.

Thank-you all for staying tuned this long!!!


(This post was edited by mushroom on Dec 17, 2011, 1:20 PM)


DouglasHunter


Dec 17, 2011, 1:58 PM
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Re: [mushroom] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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mushroom wrote:
Thank-you, DouglasHunter and olderic, for this LESSON ON IMPORTANCE OF RIGOROUS SCIENCE IN TRAINING TECHNIQUE.

Mush,

While I appreciate your enthusiasm, the larger point is that there is nothing at all scientific about what you are spraying here. If you understood the science of human movement (called Kinesiology) you would not be writting this nonesense. For a primer on the basics of Kinesiology, sport-specific training and motor learning in climbing, you should read my book, The Self-Coached Ciimber. From there you can look in the references section for a number of texts on sports science, Kinesiology, motor learning, bio-mechanics and movement analysis. the book you linked to earlier is not a text that is going to be helpful for climbers, as it is a text for bodybuilders interested in extreme hypertrophy. The training goals and methods for these activities have almost nothing in common.

Since you are so keen on scientific information please tell us what "pull-up strength" is and why it is as important as you say it is?

Also, explain, in scientific terms, why climbers should forego sport-specific training in order to engage in your non-specific conditioning? Tell us why non-specific conditioning has a greater impact on climbing performance than sport-specific training, in particular for climbers at the 5.10 level? Why is conditioning more important than say, skill development and the learning of tactics for the 5.10 climber?

Can you name one method of sport-specific training?


mushroom


Dec 17, 2011, 2:26 PM
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Re: [DouglasHunter] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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DouglasHunter,

It's not all about Science. It's about Mysticism too, brother.*

*your personal power has increased by 1%!


Kartessa


Dec 17, 2011, 4:03 PM
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Re: [mushroom] NICK'S EAST COAST TRAINING MEMOS [In reply to]
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Omg!! I'm Tripping out dude!

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