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The nose, spring 2012
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205asobotka


Dec 14, 2011, 11:06 AM
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Registered: Mar 28, 2011
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The nose, spring 2012  (North_America: United_States: California: Yosemite_National_Park)
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If there's anyone out there who needs a partner for the nose this spring let me know! i dont have nearly enough gear to do it myself, or even contribute much to the rack (set of nuts and set of hexes lol) but i climb trad regularly either on all passive or borrowed cams. so im looking for someone who has the means to climb the nose but is lacking a solid partner. as far as my ability goes im confident that i'll make it up, even through blood, sweat, and tears if need be haha. not gonna expand on my climbing ability, but if you wanna help a brotha out or let me help you out possibly and want to discuss it please message me!
Austin


USnavy


Feb 6, 2012, 6:50 AM
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Re: [205asobotka] The nose, spring 2012 [In reply to]
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Your profile says you started climbing in March 2011. Not to say you are not ready, I am just curious as to what you have been doing to prepare. Can you onsight 5.10+ Yosemite trad? Thats a good starting place if you want to do the Nose. You said you climb on hexes and passive gear a lot. Do you know how to place offset gear? There are tons of pin scars in Yosemite. Do you have hauling, jumaring, aid leading, mixed free and aid, lowering out, pendulums and the related down?


(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 6, 2012, 7:12 AM)


205asobotka


Feb 6, 2012, 3:36 PM
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Re: [USnavy] The nose, spring 2012 [In reply to]
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thanks for the reply. i have never climbed in yosemite, but have onsighted 5.10 in joshua tree and started climbing at pinnacle peak ( an old-school, sandbagged climbing area in phoenix, developed in the sixties i believe) so i am used to the grading system, i climb on mainly passive because i just haven't had the money to buy my own rack of cams, but have climbed with cams a good amount and consider myself proficient with them. by offset gear im assuming you mean "divoted" nuts (dmm walnuts, etc.)? i understand the function of them, but have never used them myself. as for jumaring and hauling, although i have never done either with the same purpose as you would on the nose i have messed around with both and don't forsee any problems with getting it down on a more specific level very quickly. pendulums i've messed around with for fun, and actually simulated the distance of the king swing. aid is the only thing that i have never "practised" just for lack of equiptment, but have studied the techniques through "freedom of the hills" and online sources. i do realize what an immense task the nose actually is, and that i am not nearly as practised in the techniques that most who climb it are. i am confident however that i will have everything i need to know down within the first few pitches.


USnavy


Feb 6, 2012, 9:31 PM
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Re: [205asobotka] The nose, spring 2012 [In reply to]
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205asobotka wrote:
i am confident however that i will have everything i need to know down within the first few pitches.
You really need to practice to climb the Nose. If you have never lead a pitch of aid you really need to start practicing that now. Borrow some cams from a friend. You dont need to climb an actual aid line, just find a crack. The idea at first is to find a system that is quick and efficient for you and to hone your basic aid leading technique. I think Super Topo Chris Mac recommends a few hundred pitches of aid before you go up the line. Thats a bit excessive IMO, but you get the point.

It is very important that you practice everything before you go up there. The Nose is not the place to learn these things. You need to have them down before you head up the route. You said you have never hauled or followed an aid pitch in the same manner that you would on a wall, well you need to. Figure that stuff out before you go up there.

Countless people try to go up the Nose with the same "ill figure it out" mentality and fail. It just takes way too long to figure that stuff out on the wall and you move way too slow. Pick up a copy of The Road to The Nose from Super Topo. It contains a great training program for the Nose. Also, you might want to consider going up a grade V wall before heading up the Nose. Something like the South Face.


vinnie83


Feb 6, 2012, 10:36 PM
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Re: [205asobotka] The nose, spring 2012 [In reply to]
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205asobotka wrote:
im confident that i'll make it up, even through blood, sweat, and tears

While you might be able to pull it off don't be a douche bag and clog up an extremely popular route so you can fine tune your aiding technique while you take a few hours to lead a C1 pitch. Find something shorter first to get the techniques figured out, you will probably enjoy the nose much more if you do.


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