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Powers.Goldwire


Dec 14, 2011, 1:15 PM
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Thermonuclear
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Has any one attempted the 5.13A roof crack in Dawson Bluff, KY? Its supposably the 10th hardest roof crack in the world. I've aided it and belayed my buddy on it. But, I wanted some input on anyone elses experiance on this route. Thanks


6pacfershur


Dec 14, 2011, 7:24 PM
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Re: [Powers.Goldwire] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?


rockforlife


Dec 14, 2011, 9:33 PM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?


your kidding right?


sungam


Dec 15, 2011, 4:21 AM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.


billl7


Dec 15, 2011, 5:32 AM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
Thankfully, we all don't live our lives like a dictionary. The "black and white" leaves out soooo much of life.

Bill L


(This post was edited by billl7 on Dec 15, 2011, 5:33 AM)


Partner camhead


Dec 15, 2011, 5:41 AM
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Re: [sungam] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.

Is true, I caught HIV from Kansas City.

As for Thermonuclear, I've wanted to check it out for a while, asked about it on another website years ago, but I can never bring myself to drive past the Red to get to Dawson Bluff. It and Champagne Jam at Sandrock are probably the two great "unknown" hard roof cracks in the East.


sungam


Dec 15, 2011, 6:07 AM
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Re: [camhead] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
sungam wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.

Is true, I caught HIV from Kansas City.

As for Thermonuclear, I've wanted to check it out for a while, asked about it on another website years ago, but I can never bring myself to drive past the Red to get to Dawson Bluff. It and Champagne Jam at Sandrock are probably the two great "unknown" hard roof cracks in the East.
Well, I think you should go do it, then slander the OP for aiding it. Maybe I just like watching dramz unfold, though.


olderic


Dec 15, 2011, 6:53 AM
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Re: [sungam] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.

I think you mean clean aid. Unless you are French...


climbingtrash


Dec 15, 2011, 7:21 AM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?

Probably because it's too hard for him to free climb? << Too obvious and answer?


colatownkid


Dec 15, 2011, 7:28 AM
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Re: [camhead] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
sungam wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.

Is true, I caught HIV from Kansas City.

As for Thermonuclear, I've wanted to check it out for a while, asked about it on another website years ago, but I can never bring myself to drive past the Red to get to Dawson Bluff. It and Champagne Jam at Sandrock are probably the two great "unknown" hard roof cracks in the East.

Don't forget "Rat's Ass" at Steele, AL.


6pacfershur


Dec 15, 2011, 9:00 AM
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Re: [sungam] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.

next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!


Dip


Dec 15, 2011, 12:26 PM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
sungam wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.

next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!

Oh jesus christ. An "in eldo..." post. Please tell me you included that in the thread on mp.

http://www.mountainproject.com/...33847__6#a_107281968

edited to add link


(This post was edited by Dip on Dec 15, 2011, 12:29 PM)


johnwesely


Dec 15, 2011, 12:49 PM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
sungam wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.

next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!

Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world.


sungam


Dec 15, 2011, 4:26 PM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
sungam wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.

next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!
Next time in Colorado, and every time after that, I won't be stopping in Eldo - I'll be going somewhere that is actually worth the trip.


sungam


Dec 15, 2011, 4:27 PM
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Re: [olderic] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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olderic wrote:
sungam wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.

I think you mean clean aid. Unless you are French...
Well, I did, but then I didn't change my typo after I saw how well it fit with the Clamhead thang.


styndall


Dec 15, 2011, 5:02 PM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
sungam wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.

next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!

I'd like to nominate this for Post of the Year 2011. Seconds?


6pacfershur


Dec 15, 2011, 6:04 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
sungam wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.

next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!

Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world.

please take this opportunity to explain the criteria to us: when is it acceptable to aid climb a free climb and when is it not...............


johnwesely


Dec 15, 2011, 6:37 PM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
sungam wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.

next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!

Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world.

please take this opportunity to explain the criteria to us: when is it acceptable to aid climb a free climb and when is it not...............

When doing so wouldn't make you a jerk. Seems pretty simple to me.


charlie.elverson


Dec 15, 2011, 6:51 PM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
sungam wrote:
6pacfershur wrote:
please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.

next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!

Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world.

please take this opportunity to explain the criteria to us: when is it acceptable to aid climb a free climb and when is it not...............

you tell 'em 6pac! That goes double for all the jerks aiding the nose and moonlight buttress!


Lazlo


Dec 15, 2011, 8:28 PM
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Re: [charlie.elverson] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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Lazlo


Dec 15, 2011, 8:30 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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Don't nobody free my aid climb! If I see anyone with a chalk bag near my route......


guangzhou


Dec 15, 2011, 11:27 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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A friend of mine lived near the area, so I've spent some time at Dawson, but never managed to free Thermonuclear crack. I've manged to do most of the routes there.

One person above mentioned Champagne Jams, not sure, it's been nearly a decade, but I think the route is actually Champain Jams because of the cobbles inside.

A couple of great Roof Cracks at T-wall too. Hands Across America.

Cheers
Eman


sungam


Dec 16, 2011, 12:32 AM
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Lazlo wrote:
Don't nobody free my aid climb! If I see anyone with a chalk bag near my route......
Wait, I thought I had a free ticket to being personally guided to Graphic Nature for the epic FFA attempt at the uber classic aid line?


johnwesely


Dec 16, 2011, 4:15 AM
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Re: [Lazlo] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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Lazlo wrote:

Dat gif.


Partner camhead


Dec 16, 2011, 4:33 AM
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Re: [guangzhou] Thermonuclear [In reply to]
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guangzhou wrote:
A friend of mine lived near the area, so I've spent some time at Dawson, but never managed to free Thermonuclear crack. I've manged to do most of the routes there.

One person above mentioned Champagne Jams, not sure, it's been nearly a decade, but I think the route is actually Champain Jams because of the cobbles inside.

A couple of great Roof Cracks at T-wall too. Hands Across America.

Cheers
Eman

I got bored a couple years ago, and put together this incomplete list of roof cracks across the world.

In reply to:
The Monument, White Bluff, 5.12+
Zombie Roof, Squamish, 5.13a
Coffin Roof, Little Cottonwood, 5.12a
Capitol Roof, Capitol Reef, UT, 5.11
Master Blaster, Zion, 5.13+
Fiddler on the Roof, Fremont Canyon, 5.13+
Separate Reality, Yosemite, 5.11+
Desperate Reality, Wichita Mtns., 5.12b
Desert Reality, Red Rocks, 5.11
Arkansas Reality, Sam's Throne, 5.11c
Celestial Mechanics, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c (longest continuous roof splitter that I've yet seen)
Hands Across America, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c
Dream Thiever, Red River Gorge, 5.12a
Stolen Tiggers, New River Gorge, 5.12b
Biodiesel, New River Gorge, 5.13b
Greatest Show on Earth, New River Gorge, 5.13a
Kansas City, Gunks, 5.12c
Jean's Overhang, Tishomingo, MS, 5.12a
Champagne Jam, Sandrock, AL, 5.12+
Thermonuclear, Dawson Bluffs, KY, 5.13-

International:
Greenspit, Valle de Orco, Italy, 5.14- (?)
Passport to Insanity, Grampians, Aus, 5.12c
Kalbarri Gold, Western Australia, 5.12

There are certainly some that I've forgotten.

Add the recent Necronomicon in Canyonlands to this list.

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